Finished my little trip to kernow. 6 days on the road and 6 days surf. Got upto a solid 8ft swell and clean in the middle of the week and my arms feel like they’re about to drop off. Managed 30 hrs surfing and had great time. Photos to follow shortly in another thread.
7ft with a 15 sec period! If it happens weds is going to be a good day. 3 breaks to choose from, mellow easy going bay with long rides (great when the surf gets big), rock ledges with long steep lefts or very shallow tubing flat rock reef with fast rights.
Have to excuse my excitment but i haven’t surfed my local break since last winter.
Best weekend in ages. Took friday off as rumour had it, it was going to be windy and wavey locally. Scored four hours surfing and three hours kitesurfing in 6-8ft waves at various different local beaches. Saturday even more wind and really nice clean small waves perfect for practising my kite wave sailing on, another 3 hours on the water.
Sunday BOO HISS, torential rain and high winds to much for kitesurfing and messy surf. Decided to put the day to good use and started brewing alcohol with board crazy, should be ready in three months.
Driving home in the afternoon, i noticed the wind had gone. Thought i’ll just check my local break that’s only 2mins from my house that doesn’t work very often. There it was 3-4ft clean peeling waves with the occasional 6 footer and no one out! Surfed for two hours by myself, caught lots of good waves and had my best wave yet! How happy was i driving home and waking up this morning and how happy am i still?