Swaylockians, I’ve been playing around with getting the weave to dissappear in a Resin Research epoxy lamination. I have discovered that if you shoot a hot coat with additive “F” in it over the glass lamination while the cloth layup is still a little gummy – depending on the temperature – an hour or two after the glass layup what happens is that you can sand the hot coat without touching the weave at all with very possitive results. If you’er good enough with the brush and want a light board with sanded finish you’re ready to go. If you want to polish things out to perfection or want to do some pin-lining just sand the surface down with 80 or 100 grit (220 for the pin-lines) and shoot another coat on with additive “F” and ‘WALA’ you have a real sweet finish coat with very little work. Back to the fin shop, Rich
Thanks Rich. I’ll have to try that. I do know that shooting the hot coat when the lam is still tacky allows it to flow much better but I hadn’t gone the extra mile you did. Thanks again.
My next project will be done with epoxy. Most of what I have read suggests that a clear coat or varnish is needed to protect the epoxy from UV breakdown where it is exposed to sunlight. In addition, I have read that the clear coat/varnish also serves the purpose of preventing the epoxy from absorbing water. With canoes I have always used varnish. What is the truth regarding the need for a clearcoat/varnish?
Resin Research epoxies have excellent UV resistance (at least as good as polyester) so no need to varnish over the top. There is also no need to protect againt water intrusion, provided your lamination is good. Additive F is a surfacing agent that helps to seal the surface.
Greg: Given I live on Vancouver Island and the shipping of resin is expensive, is Additive F compatible with say, System Three or West System epoxies? Also will you sell Additive F separately? Thanks for your time. Patrick
Rich: Good tip. I’m into my 4th board, a 9’ HP longboard, using Resin Research Epoxy. I suppose out of habit I have not been hotcoating until the next day, and I’ve noticed that the the weave is difficult to cover except where I’ve gone on to a 3rd gloss coat finish over pins on some boards. I’ve been using 5 oz. Aerialite for everything or 6oz. , just figured the heavier weave was the problem. Your post was timely as I laminated the 9’0" tonight at 6:00 p.m. and at 9:00 I went back out for the prescribed 2-3 hour hotcoat. The weave filled much better doing this, not to mention I get to skip the sanding and alcohol prep before the delayed hotcoat. I’m using this epoxy with additive F in every lamination and hotcoat etc. What amazes me is how small a volume of epoxy I can lam a double 6 oz. layup with or how little it takes for a hotcoat. I’m a happy camper since I quit buying Acetone. A QUART can of denatured alcohol for very limited cleanup of squeegees or tools lasts for 3-4 boards. Sandpaper doesn’t gum up as fast and I’m using about 1/3 as much as I had with polyester resins. I use 2 throw away 4" brushes for hotcoats per board and cheap throwaway gloves, no more solvent baths! Skin cleanup if needed is at most some orange oil based hand cleaner and usually just soap and water. Thanks for the tip. Tom S.
Patrick, Shipping for a 1.5 gallon is about $25. 3 gallon case to Vancouver costs about $45 for shipping. It is a bit more reasonable out of Arizona now. I really don’t know is additive F works with other epoxies, I’ve never tried it. Great tips guys. I’ve said many times the more heads we have involved the faster we move forward.
Thanks for information and doing the leg work re the shipping.Patrick
Can I fix a Pulse surfboard with XTR foam with your resin? I have a brand new Oulse and it delamed, and the nose broke off at 3 foot trestles.
Dave, Yes you can. Use the fast hardener. We sell quart sets which is probably a bit more than you need but the shelf life is vertually forever and we all know your going to want to build your own someday.