Hi all- I’m desperately looking for some help on the best way to carve and shape thick pieces of rubber- I’m trying to shape a board with sections of the rails that flex. I am using 40-50 durometer sheets of buytl and neoprene. I would like to taper the rubber from about 1" thickness to 0". I’ve tried unsuccessfully using the dremel tool… various grit sandpaper… surform and mini block plane. The dremel and sandpaper wouldn’t take down enough of the rubber and the surform and block plane couldn’t cut it. What is the best way to get a clean, even taper? Any help would be a real lifesaver
Hi all- I’m desperately looking for some help on the best way to carve and > shape thick pieces of rubber- I’m trying to shape a board with sections of > the rails that flex. I am using 40-50 durometer sheets of buytl and > neoprene. I would like to taper the rubber from about 1" thickness to > 0". I’ve tried unsuccessfully using the dremel tool… various grit > sandpaper… surform and mini block plane. The dremel and sandpaper > wouldn’t take down enough of the rubber and the surform and block plane > couldn’t cut it. What is the best way to get a clean, even taper? Any help > would be a real lifesaver… ,…hotwire or hotknive,Herb
I once had to cut conveyer belt rubber into sections for a power-lifting platform. What worked best for me was my jigsaw using a blade with a knife-edge. All other blades with any amount of teeth just made a mess. I don’t know if they make this type of edge for other power tools. Maybe hit the butcher block in the kitchen and pull out something sharp to test this on your material.
were you hand sanding or using a power sander, I’ve used a power sander to shape rubber with great results, just don’t get it too hot. makes one hell of a mess.
thanx for the tips guys! i was hand sanding. the rubber strips were to long and it was to much work doing it by hand.
Hi P.C. Just coming at this idea of rubber rails from another angle… I used to make rubber moulds for rock climbing holds…used all kinds of rubber in the development phase, so have some experience with various products. There are 2-part liquids that when combined, harden into rubber (different durometers available). If you were to shape a blank, cut off the rails, say 1.5 inches in, you could use the cut off rails as a positive from which to make a reinforced plaster mould. Then pour the liquid rubber into the mould and use the liquid rubber as your casting material instead of using it as a mould material. Once hardened, you could glue the rubber rails onto the fiberglassed, square-railed board that you made from the cutaway process mentioned above. If you didn’t like the rails, just remove and glue on new ones! Another product available is a thermo-rubber…used in mould making as well. Cool stuff. Melt it in a big pot…pour it…let cool…done! If it gets damaged, or you don’t like the mould/product…reheat and repour! Just thought this might be easier than shaping rubber…sounds difficult! Good luck Dee>>> Hi all- I’m desperately looking for some help on the best way to carve and > shape thick pieces of rubber- I’m trying to shape a board with sections of > the rails that flex. I am using 40-50 durometer sheets of buytl and > neoprene. I would like to taper the rubber from about 1" thickness to > 0". I’ve tried unsuccessfully using the dremel tool… various grit > sandpaper… surform and mini block plane. The dremel and sandpaper > wouldn’t take down enough of the rubber and the surform and block plane > couldn’t cut it. What is the best way to get a clean, even taper? Any help > would be a real lifesaver
Hi Dee- great stuff! i’m interested. can you recomend any brands for the 2-part rubber or thermo rubber? I’m guessing they’re both H20 proof and tough. where can this stuff be found. moulding would probably make life tons eazier for me! thanx!>>> Hi P.C.>>> Just coming at this idea of rubber rails from another angle… I used to > make rubber moulds for rock climbing holds…used all kinds of rubber in > the development phase, so have some experience with various products.>>> There are 2-part liquids that when combined, harden into rubber (different > durometers available). If you were to shape a blank, cut off the rails, > say 1.5 inches in, you could use the cut off rails as a positive from > which to make a reinforced plaster mould. Then pour the liquid rubber into > the mould and use the liquid rubber as your casting material instead of > using it as a mould material. Once hardened, you could glue the rubber > rails onto the fiberglassed, square-railed board that you made from the > cutaway process mentioned above. If you didn’t like the rails, just remove > and glue on new ones!>>> Another product available is a thermo-rubber…used in mould making as > well. Cool stuff. Melt it in a big pot…pour it…let cool…done! If it > gets damaged, or you don’t like the mould/product…reheat and repour!>>> Just thought this might be easier than shaping rubber…sounds difficult!>>> Good luck>>> Dee
Hi all- I’m desperately looking for some help on the best way to carve and > shape thick pieces of rubber- I’m trying to shape a board with sections of > the rails that flex. I am using 40-50 durometer sheets of buytl and > neoprene. I would like to taper the rubber from about 1" thickness to > 0". I’ve tried unsuccessfully using the dremel tool… various grit > sandpaper… surform and mini block plane. The dremel and sandpaper > wouldn’t take down enough of the rubber and the surform and block plane > couldn’t cut it. What is the best way to get a clean, even taper? Any help > would be a real lifesaver P.C., I
ve had excellent results, in numerous applications using 2 part polyurethanes, available in various durometers: <a href="http://www.farwestmaterials.com/MoldingMaterals.htm">http://www.farwestmaterials.com/MoldingMaterals.htm</a> <a href="http://www.polytek.com/html/polyurethane_mold_rubbers.html">http://www.polytek.com/html/polyurethane_mold_rubbers.html</a> <a href="http://www.artstuf.com/flexible-mold-materials.html">http://www.artstuf.com/flexible-mold-materials.html</a> High speed grinders (like 13,000 rpm+) equipped with very coarse discs, such as 36 grit or less, to begin with, will contour almost anything. Take it easy, dont burn away working on just one small area, and keep the temperature of grinding as cool as possible. Wear a mask and eye protection… there`s nothing quite like being hit in the eyes with chunks of semi-molten plastic. Dale