Worth 1000 words -- the Dale

What Soul said! Basically the more relaxed and laying down flat on the mat, maximizing body contact the better (most of the time). Different positioning will have various effects to be discoverd but max speed and control with minimum effort seems to be to make your body about as limp as the mat and nose to nose so to speak.

$0.02 = To get into riding position on low inflation, I hold rails with hands very near nose (while hanging off back and kicking into wave) just as wave about to take over and I’m starting to feel the beginnings of the “got it” feeling, or even just before that I squeeze my hands toward each other fairly hard to firm up the mat, stiffen my arms and sort of press downward on the nose a little and give one or two big dolphin kicks. At the same time I gently pull back with my hands (still holding squeezing and pressing) until they are lined up with my chest and plop down in riding position. I think it amounts to a momentary bodysurf above the mat. Seem to be able to get up on a very soft mat in one hump most every time. Occasionally I’ll come up short and need another. Sometimes I’ll buckle the front and game over.

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its very hard to unlearn this style its important to remember that the mat pretty much will not pearl . you can ride, with your head even to the mat’s front at times felt as if i was alot farther over the front then even with it.

It seems like one of the keys is a straight back.

Also, having your chin 2" from the water and seeing no vehicle in front of you appeals to me–like bodysurfing without the disadvantages.

Hello and greetings to all. First post on Swaylocks, inspired by Day 7 experience with the crew in SC. First comment is a big ‘Thank You’ to Mark for organizing the gathering. What a great group of folks, and what a lot of effort to pull it all together! Muy Mahalo.

Secondly, just wanted to chime in on the ‘style’ comments and agree with Soul and Dudley’s tips re: technique (though my agreement is so far more in theory than practice). If you check the sequence above where DP and I are taking the same wave, he is in the lower/faster/more relaxed position with elbows tucked and outer hand on rail. I am in the arched back/elbows pressing/paipo driver stance. And he steadily accelerates out of view, altho I started in the more critical section of the wave. Technique is critical and supple is fast!

Note: I’m going to blame at least part of my lousy form that day on the ‘gawk factor’. For the first time ever I was actually able to see a mat ridden by another person(s) and the education was wonderful (had the same perspective at Moss that a.m. checking out Mark on his spoon- what a show!) Thanks Jamie! Pictures are helpful, but seeing another mat being ridden well (and the post-ride downloads) was a huge leap in understanding.

As for JD’s ‘heads up’ position, he really had no choice. That was simply high speed air resistance pulling him right up off the mat! Seriously, he caught the best waves of the afternoon- and rode them screaming fast. He also has mastered the ‘one arm’ takeoff (right arm extended toward the front center of the mat- like a handbord or paipo wave entry). Very cool and definitely one more thing to check out…

Again, thanks to all (Mark, Mark, Luke (it’s not against the law to Kneelo), DrS, Joel, Scott, Brad, Craig, et al.) You guys were great!

TC

…welcome aboard , ‘Shorepound’!

[by the way , looking at your current ‘avatar’ photo …does it perhaps get a wee bit warm , wearing your steamer and helmet at Sunset Point , I wonder ???]

I love your signature , too ! [for obvious reasons ]

cheers !

ben

hey tyler

glad you could join us on day 7, and again here.

your gawk feelings during that evening session is exactly what i went through just a few days prior with Soul. watching his technique of monokicking and getting into riding position in one seamless move really flipped the switch in my head, glad i could further pass the experience on to you.

and thanks again for the entertainment portion of the evening, that was classic

jamie

Chipfish- Hello there and thanks for the welcome! The avatar is a legacy from my cold water days on the San Mateo Coast. But since it comprised 50% of my personal photo library (the better 50%) I decided to use it ;-). Still wearing a suit here in Hawaii for UV and windchill protection, just not as much (and half as thick). Man, that morning at Moss was a shock to my thinned blood!

Jamie- Yeah, I really wish I could have seen Mr. Sowell in action… Still, lot’s of UH-HUH moments in the fun we had ('Oh, so THAT’S the grip position, WOW- look at how much body lean he gets into the face, GLUB! as the foamball rolls over me) So much to (un)learn…

One thing though, no matter the skill level the mat riders all share big stinkin’ grins!! Thanks, Dale!

TC

First post here on Swalock’s! Got up to Santa Cruz early before the 2007 Kneeboard Surfing World Titles and this session was my first after rolling into town and was one of the highlights of my 12 day stay. It was awesome to be out with all of the mat surfers and meet everyone for the first time. The vibe was totally cool and everyone was stoked. The mat riders all rode great and I really enjoyed seeing the quality of the mats, how much air you use to inflate/ride them, and the speed generated. Thanks so much to Mark for pulling it together and for everyone who made the trip and traveled so much farther than I did (SanDiego) for that gathering!!

-Brad

Brad, I owe you forever just for this

there must be something in the water down here that makes our elbows stick out like that. i’d forgotten about the moonrise during that session!

great to meet everyone and talk story. really enjoyed the old hawaii film. got hit with so muuch info and insight from everyone its taken awhile to process. there is so much to unlearn…

those are H20 fin socks the only “alterations” are the holes worn through on the soles. need a new pair.

el elbow

Morning routine – coffee on and walk down the block

Frank a kb’er

the extraterrestrial “channeled flex” board designed and built by him

dude beat us there

a.m. high tides

Swell ran strong and this is usually what we saw

(incl. mandatory sea otter)

Meanwhile, across the channel the rights were mellow

the lefts were not

…does anyone have any shots of the mysterious ‘Run’ , surfing his cutaway keels board standing up , please ?

cheers

ben

I’d love to see pics of that too. When I was fondling that board he said it was super fast and went vert better than any of his others. I wanted to dash out the door with it and keep going. One of those that just feels “right” when you run your hands over it. Lots of subtlty to the bottom and rails contours.

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…does anyone have any shots of the mysterious ‘Run’ , surfing his cutaway keels board standing up , please ?

We might, we might not. run is pretty mysterious.

More from endless Day 7.

Ross Dillon of Australia and his wife Katrina stayed with us for four days, then stayed on for the World Kneeboard Contest.

1

2

(same wave but Joel pulls back to get the two layers of action behind him)

3

Tyler pinching himself

Shorepound and Caveman scratching for different reasons

Caveman Eric Thorygsen

Luke / El Nino - second day on a kneeboard

MOW stoked that spoons aren’t buoyant

hey chipper and doc strange that board you’re talking about is fun to surf, there is a lot going on with it that i dont understand fully, but a few observations of it since youre interested…

it has A LOT of roll up front, especially for a narrow nose (relative to a wider nose purer traditional fish outline)

the roll blends into vee/spiral vee thru the fins and out the back

its somewhere around 5-8 x 19 3/8 x 2 3/8 with a concave deck, very pronounced in the last 2 feet. I find this provides helpful feedback of knowing how far back and how close to the rail your backfoot is, but cant consciously feel any ‘flex’ that design aspect may provide

so with this ‘convex’ mentality and generous (for a fish) rocker it doesnt really grovel well, i wouldnt really consider it fast like boards that are flatter/have more concave in general, even with the more traditional wide tail…

i mean you can make it go in tiny stuff but i dont really enjoying pumping all aggro, i have been growing towards just hard fades and rail turns as much as possible and pumping as little as possible…

i consider that ‘convex mentality’ as a interesting way to facilitate control in such a wide tailed twin fin board.

it seems to allow the board to be surfed harder and, in terms of a fish, can be surfed in more critical parts of the wave/oh conditions. In general I am not very fond of super aggresive vees and rolls, and it took me a lot of time to adjust to the board.

in terms of the vertical comment it was in the context of twin keeled fish…it goes vertical (in the right wave such as a bowly left for me about shoulder high) and seems recoverable more easily than other twin keels i have surfed…in my opinion the fins are a huge factor in this, but its only my opinion. It is still challenging to do and requires the right wave/timing like most things.

rails are fairly soft and full midboard and up front, but nose to tail there is a definite tucked edge, even more pronounced than black beauty style, but obviously falling short of greenough edge radicalness. This is an interesting feature in a board with so much roll. The rear two feet of railline is extremely downrailed.

by the way it kneeboards like shit, i guess the outline is just wrong for that discipline (too narrow), but i think a lot of the attributes would work well in a kneeboard for good surf

i dont remember having any really impressive turns/waves on it on the trip personally, and i dont really know or care if there are photos of it, i do recall seeing a few backside at a small little point/reef wave that were ok. Sadly I was already back at work on the days of all the shots on this thread so far. looks like everyone got some fun surf (bastids!)!

Anyway it is good to see everyone had a great time and was relatively respectful to the area and each other, thanks and take care

It’s like you not to worry about photos but there are some just the same. You got lots of good surf on all 7 of your exotic vehicles. Your solid matting on that blue offshore day at the Lane stands out. Pics and vid coming.

When and where will the next Dale be? Jeremy of NYC says he’s in.

Here’s the last of Day 7 and a few from 8 – end of my cd’s but more on the way – thankyou, Joel

Mark Miller experimenting

Scott W

2 brothers, close encounter

A week after this, Scott took 3rd in the World KB Contest, Grand Masters division

Shorepound far from Oahu

On the cliff

Brad & Scott

Jamie

A little Day 8 at our secret spot

Brad

I originally started posting the pics on “Matmen, your hour has come.” Here they are so we can have all the Dale fotos on one thread.

(Day 7)

Tyler “Shorebreak” Coon of Oahu takes on Monterey Bay

DudleyP & MOW with friendly locals

Dr S blowing the doors of the Dale by choosing a boogie

I got grief for using a PFD

Foam, nylon, glass and 6 lokes already on it

Dr S

The overnight conversion of El Nino from feet to knees was a shock

is ross dillon …scott’s son , by any chance ??

please keep the shots coming , man o’ … I think this is the most kneelo and mat photos i have EVER seen !!

…do you have any more shots of the kneeboards , dimensions , and fin setups , please ? [just curious to hear and see what size kneelos the guys were riding in those waves !]

cheers !

  ben

Chip, those fotos are coming. Joel took shots of the equipment, the people, and about 10 other sessions!

As far as Ross, I don’t know who he’s the son of. He didn’t say anything about a Scott or his dad being a surfer, but maybe.

Glad you’re enjoying this…