Keep us posted and pics. I’m looking forward to seeing this one finished!
FWIW, I like this original outline WAAAAAYYY MORE, than the tweaked one in your last post.
I’m looking forward to progress pics too. I really want a shortish pig.
Bill, I probably should have stayed the course, but I opened up AKU one night and just started tweaking. An hour later, and I was probably numb from all the minute changes I made. Oh well, my main goal (I think) with tweaking it was to get the rails straighter to encourage mid-board trim. If that ends up happening, who knows. The original outline i had posted earlier also just didnt jive right with my eye when I mocked it up on the board… I think my imagination overloaded when faced with a true pig outline in such relatively short distance.
I also have a 9’9B second that I picked up along with this blank. Both have similar divots. If this one goes ok, I could turn right around and pop another one out. Maybe at 8’10 or so, with all the curve of version 1.
Will take pictures tomorrow. Board is still at outline stage, so no one is missing much. I do plan on keeping this thread updated. Stay tuned.
Hey hammock, the red outline there looks almost exactl the same as a paper template I received for a con cc rider pig, I think 8’2".
Think about moving the wide point aft of center. this should give more curve to the the read 1/3 of the board. Some of the Velzy Pig shapes had a Bump in the outline to sharply bring the Board around into the tail. In The 1970’s there was some experimented with with short Velzy style Bump boards. This was in the era of swallow tails and wings.
Keep working on it and I vote for the red outline it just looks a lot cleaner.
In late 1958 I had an 8’ 10’’ x 20’’ Velzy&Jacobs Bump. On a hard bottom turn, the tail would leap out of the water, in a catastrophic spinout! The Bump was not a good design variation of the true pig design.
About 3 years ago, I did a 7-0 board that looks a little similar to the red planshape. Due to the shorter length there’s more curve through the middle. I really like how this board surfs.
Here’s the one I’m working on now: 7-8 x 22
Well… dang. I don’t disagree with any of your sentiments, on paper the modified outline DOES look a bit ungainly, admittedly. My reasons for tweaking were more functional than aesthetic, straigher rails and more volume in the tail with that arc vs the pin- Im figuring this board will be good for a pivoty bottom turn, then trim trim trim. My tweaks (grasping at straws here, really) were to effect that goal… Unfortunately the modified version has already been cut into the blank. BUT sitting here in front of me, the curves on the board dont appear as ungainly as they do on paper. I’ll take a picture soon and upload it.
Looking over both aku files I just might be able to go back towards the flavor of the red version, just in a narrower planshape since I tweaked the red to get to where Im at now. All I’ll have to do is tweak the tweak, so to speak.
I don’t know that you need to do that. Unless you want to.
Shortboards employ the bump and wings and such quite successfully. I think a lot depends on how you intend to fin this. If you were planning a D fin or a pivot fin at the tail then having the more abrupt bump way forward of that might create a problem. But if you were running a 2+1 or a center fin further forward that might work together with the bump a little better. The trailing edge of a side fin on a 2+1 would be somewheres in the 15" range from the tail.
I plan on finning this with a D, Pivot, or wide based 9-10’’ Flex fin with a box ~4’’ from the tail. For D fins, Im specifically thinking about this true ames notched D so I can push it all the way to the back of the box and approximate the positioning of traditional pig fin placement, while leaving the door open for more forward positions: http://trueames.com/shop/canvas-christian-wach-fin. Heres the blank with the modified outline currently, and here is the aku of the red template, tweaked to fit into the current shape. Just slimmed it up a touch, and looking at that pin, I think I am definitely going to retweak into this final iteration. Ive just been rideing nothing but LB’s lately, so to my eye, the curve of the orginal red shape clashed with my current baseline… but the more i look at it, the more jazzed I am to shape it.
Hamrock,
Relieved to see the template! “Pigs” are generally widest @3” behind center and you turn behind the widest point, just cruse on the tail and carve!
Any thought of Quad? I think it would jam, however maybe loss cool of retro single fin,eh?
Oh here’s a real pig!!!
Just wanted to update the thread-
Finally finished this little experiment Board is around 8’10 x 21 3/4 x 3, WP back, with soft 60/40 down rails from nose to just about the last foot of tail, where it turns to hard down. Fin box 5’’ up from the tip. Flat nose to slight (~1/8-1/4’') belly to flat tail. Domed deck.
Took it out this morning on a too-hi tide but managed a few corners. Paddles pretty well, but I THINK I can feel that exaggerated tail flip (shaped from a flipped blank mentioned earlier in thread) kinda draggin around. This relates back to a pig thread on sways where others chimed in talking about a similar effect. Quirky getting into waves as well, like the board catches the wave more from the middle to rear portion if that makes sense. Once on, the board is surprisingly nimble from the tail/hips. From the middle in trim it also feels a bit quirky, I am guessing a joint effect of current fin choice/position and tail flip are the causes. One GREAT quality I discovered on a few longer wave faces was that getting up to the nose of the board is quite easy, and that it planes as well as my longer, beefier dedicated noserider. It is interesting to see what effect this tail flip has after shaping from that flipped blank, both pros and cons.
More waves are required to get a really solid idea of what the board is truly all about, but so far I am pretty stoked.
Took it out again today in more appropriate waves. A bit walled, but the corners had some push to them, and the board slinked into most peaks without that quirkiness I stated earlier. Really likes to trim from the middle and turn from the tail, and on the shoulder when the wave starts to stand up I again was able to get to the nose no problem. However on less severe sections without the right face it became pretty wobbly up there. One interesting thing I noticed was that it has some difficulty taking off horizontally. That is, I got much better results paddling straight in and then banking hard to set the rail than just setting the rail down the line from the get go. Buuut these were fat hi tide lines that were slow to develop… Stoked even more so after this mornings session in any case.
It looks to me like your design is probably better at turning than at noseriding. On the wp back midlengths I’ve been doing I’ve been running a tall raked flex fin with some base and setting the box a couple inches forward of where you set your’s. . And yeah, it’s all about the strong bottom turn.
I’ve tried other fins with them like the banana fins and the hatchet fins and the Wayne Rich Powerfin but my favorites were the Velzy Classic and a similar flex fin in volan from Larry Allison. Similar to the templates they were using in the mid-late 1960s.
Yea gdaddy, I wouldn’t call it a noserider in million years, but I am surprised at its ability to hold/trim/plane with my 205 lbs up on the nose nonetheless. A happy accident for sure, and one that lends to the tail rocker I imagine.
Your box location intrigues me. Originally I was spurred on by traditional pigs and their fin placements, but I have a similar fin like the one you describe in there now pushed all the way up. This puts the leading edge right at 15’'. It felt good today, whereas yesterday I had it more in the middle of the box. Felt a touch tracky, if I were pressed to describe it.
I could take an existing fin or foil a plywood one myself, cut a notch so that the leading edge extends out past the front of the box and then glass it on, quick and dirty to experiment further.
I committed every sin when glassing and sanding this board, so I have no issue with scuffin it up.
If you go to the archives at Surfresearch.com.au and check out the 1967-1969 boards you’ll see several that are real similar to what you built. They were using long bases with thin tips and some rake. Some of those fins were pushing 12+" Hot Generation, Evolution, those kinds of surf flicks.
Different strokes. Sometimes you want a board that goes fast and other times you just want to go with the flow.