Two years ago I’ve spent over a year in South Africa. Trying to do something good, I was coaching a ‘development surf-team’ in one of S.A’s. surfing hotspots. Basically those are poor township kids, a first generation of black surfers whose elders can’t swim and are afraid of the water. Some of them will become rippers, sponsored surfers, champions. In short, surfing could become a way out of poverty for them! Anyways, I really enjoyed working with them and felt grateful for the experience. I also taught them about good manners in the water -not to drop in, respect one another, etc…
One day one of the local shapers approached me in the water and told me off for “teaching the kaffa’s”. He argues that it’s crowded already and that “they have no manners in general” and don’t belong in the sea. He concludes that if I want to remain peaceful in his town, I shall refrain from my coaching.
To tell him that we are in Africa and that apartheid officially is over was pointless. Noting that the guy holds a legend (in his own mind) status, proclaims to be a freespirited hippie and drives an old VW with peace signs on it - isn’t that what’s called a paradox?
Anyways, I continued my coaching, got my tires ripped & my car waxed. Old legend and his fellows tried cutting me off on waves, I just ignored them;
-frustrated surf nazis!
All the while I had more fun hanging out in the townships with my black brothers, the real deal.
To conclude this story, I was paddling out at my homebreak today on a nice shoulderhigh day, as usual the crowd was out. Unless the surf is more serious I don’t use a leash and usually stay with my board. However, I did lose it once and swam in for it. Swimming after my board this african-american dude paddles by and splashes water in my face, telling me to go elsewhere !!!? I was so surprised that I was left speechless. Heck, I’ve never even seen the guy out there. Later when I do see him surf, I realize he’s a kook with bad stinkbug style, a johnny come lately maybe a soldier from ohau who’s been inspired by watching point break to many times? He’s definitely not been surfing long enough to realize the benefits of surfing without a leash on small days or generally that a little etiquette goes a long way. Point is; there are always sick minds trying to ruin your fun, no matter where you are or what you’re doing.
Nevermind, life is to good to worry about these assholes, I am going surfing. Just needed to write this out of my system, -feeling better now.
Aloha,
rob
