I’ve stopped surfing several times. Once I had the opportunity to work in Africa that was too interesting to pass up. I also lived and worked in Italy for many years. I tried to surf there but only got waves in france and Morocco. While I missed the surf, I never regretted those experiences.
Still, every time I was away from the surf I’d have withdrawals- dreams where I was unable to surf. I’d dream I was getting ready to surf… and… the sun would set before I could paddle out. No surf. Or I’d be in a car waiting for my friends… and… they’d take too long. No surf. The funniest one was when I got to the beach without a board, so I made one out of sand…and… then a wave came up and washed it away. No surf. You get the idea. Almost every night I’d go through similar frustration.
Then, during one of my sojourns abroad I came home for holidays and the first thing I do is jam down to the beach (this was not a dream). As I’m suiting up the zipper on my wetsuit breaks. I couldn’t belkieve it. It was like one of my dreams. I was totally stressing. It was mid winter in California , though, so I wasn’t goin out without a wetsuit.
Nowadays I never miss a day. This weekend I was pretty sick, coughing all night. When I woke up my wife says, “You’re not going surfing are you? You’ll catch pneumonia.” But I’m a weekend warrior and there was, finally, a swell running. No way was I going to miss it. Better to catch pneumonia than to miss a swell. Of course I went.
They all made fun of me. They laughed at my bright red US Coast Guard wetsuit, and my crash helmet. Then they said my 15 ft board was too big, and made out of wood.
Ran me out of the water for 20 years.
But I showed them, I put a GPS on my board. Now I’m the fastest surfer on the planet. Look whos laughing now.
That’s because there ARE no other surfers on planet claire . The pink air and red trees killed them all. And there is no ocean there . But take heart , “no one ever dies there , no-one has a head”
Ya, I know what you mean. Last summer I really f***ed up my shoulder and got dry docked a month or two. I absolutely refused to go by the beach. We had some killer hurricane surf then. Heard all about it. Last thing you want to do is watch people having fun. You’ll just end up going out and screwing yourself.
Knee injury on the newport bermuda race has had me out of everything for 4 months, but I will be back in the water as soon as its warm enough to warrant the 3 hour drive.
Never really stopped. Forty years later still doing it but not with the frequency of a 16 year old. Too many other things and responsibilities getting in the way. Wasn’t that what we were trying to avoid in the first place?
Moved inland for a better job…Now I’m in Chihuahua, took my 3 unfinished boards with me (I’ll finish’em someday), left the first made where someone else can surf it. I’m planning my retirement (In 20 years or so I will move to costa rica and spend the rest of my life surfing and eating sea food.). Meanwhile I’m into rock climbing and will surf on vacations only. Also thinking in build and ride skate and sandboards.
Moved to Denver for 8 years- Surfed on vacations but tried to makeup for it by wakeboarding in summer and snowboarding in winter.
Been home since 1999 and plan on never leaving the coast for the rest of my life. Might move North, might move South; but don’t ever want to be more than a short drive from da’ waves.
Thank God my wife surfs and we’re not pulling each other in different directions.
surf exists for me. It was before me and will be after me, but only because of the One who carried all creation into being, and is greater than surfing itself.
Most of my reasons for not being able to surf or commit to anything for extended peroids, over the last 15 years has been for medical reasons (Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma, it’s treatments & complications) . this year I have only been in the water about 10 times. Wanting and dreaming of that next good ride is what keeps me going .
Most of my reasons for not being able to surf or commit to anything for extended peroids, over the last 15 years has been for medical reasons (Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma, it’s treatments & complications) . this year I have only been in the water about 10 times. Wanting and dreaming of that next good ride is what keeps me going .
…
…Surfing on chemo. O.B. pier 1997
hi Mr. Ben Shipman ,
you are a great guy , and truly an inspiration to me !
I think of you and your situation , on a regular basis .
Your humour in the face of your ongoing adversity is amazing and again , inspirational , too , by the way ! …great stuff !!
I’m glad you have “Stingray” to bounce off also, eh ? …What a great team you two make !
…your creations here , and over the years at Surfermag also , are what helped lead me here to Sways , as well as to try to make better boards and fins [I DID say "TRY " !!! …the reality , of course , is a whole different story !]
