I am 35, which is still young in my opinion, but my story is a bit different than most, similar to many.
I grew up surfing and, of course, shortboards were all the rage. I started about eight on different older guys boards (Leucadia) and got my own board (a six foot Doyle) when I was ten. In one year I was on to a fish, followed by a regular modern shape within a couple years after that.
Unfortunately, once I really started getting better I forgot about stoke. To us it was all about performance. Who could surf the best?
Later, when I was 17 I fell in love, and for a year the only thing getting wet was NOT my surfboard, if you know what I mean (elbow, elbow).
Then, after that cruel, heartless, evil thing dumped me, and I spent three weeks crying, I paddle out. I was still young so getting out wasn’t too bad. I caught a perfect, six foot glassy wave (nobody out—strange) and rode it all the way to the beach. I was STOKED. Then, out of nowhere, while cruising the inside and setting up an off the lip, the board simply broke clean in half. Very odd. So, I ordered up a new one and my love of surfing was rekindled.
Later (female again) I moved to Georgia and even sold my board (thinking I wouldn’t be surfing for awhile). What was I thinking? It wasn’t but a couple months before I realized I couldn’t get it out of my system that easily. So I went about once a month to the beach to surf crappy little waist high wind swell (on my brother’s board that I stole from him—Okay, I took it with heavy protest, but nevertheless took it----MINE!).
Fast forward: I moved back in May of 01 and boy was I out of shape. The South has a way of doing that to you. So, I bought another board (6,10) and again rekindled the stoke. Then the boards kept piling up. I bought more and more, each time giving some lame excuse to my angry wife (after I bought each board, of course—better to ask forgiveness).
Eventually I narrowed it down to the half dozen I have now, and they all work well. Each one surfs its purpose. So, even if the waves are crappy and small I have a board for it. If the waves are chest to head high and perfect, I have a board for it. When the waves are slightly overhead to double, I got it covered, baby. And when it’s thirty feet and grinding I have it…I don’t have that covered and I don’t want to.
Now, staying in shape I finally figured out. PADDLE. Two years ago I decided to surf the North Shore. Talk about a humbling experience. After that I decided to paddle. So, I started paddling about 1.5 miles (from the Tamarack parking lot to Offshore Surfshop and back. Then, to the powerplant and back (two miles). Then, the the power plant and back and then to tower number eight and back (three miles). At first I would count one fifty strokes and then rest. Then another fifty. Soon it became one hundred. Then two hundred. Then three hundred. I never made it to four hundred because I finally hit a break through. Between about three hundred and four hundred my body did something that I thought was almost miraculous. It didn’t need to count anymore. In other words, I could travel pretty much as far as I wanted without a rest (up to about five miles) and it was the best feeling. Plus, once I got to that point I found that I only had to paddle long distance about one per week to stay in shape. And it doesn’t take that long. I can paddle two miles (my usual distance) in about thirty minutes, sometimes less, and then there is still plenty of time for surfing.
Keep in mind that I only paddle long distances on a ten foot, thick longboard, but it helps my shortboarding as well, and ever since then I haven’t had any trouble getting out on bigger days or making the looooong paddle out at the point breaks without resting.
So, take my advice and paddle. You don’t have to do the Catalina classic to stay in shape. If you can do two miles without resting you will be in awesome paddling condition.
Now, if only I can discipline myself to do that with my swimming I might actually be able to surf big waves. But it’s really hard for me to get in the ocean without a board. I love surfing.