Slight vee in the first 8-12 inches into single concave deapest just in front of the side fins to a vee off the tail.
“THEN” I put in a “SLIGHT” double concave from about half way between mid point and the side fins to just in front of the back fin.
I dont call this a single/double, I call it a vee to single to vee with a slight scoop through the fin area.
My 7’8" funboard has the same set-up but without the single and I like the way it performs, so all Iv’e done is added a slight single into the equation for a bit more oomf.
All these variation are only very slight, 1/8 inch with my getting close to 1/4 around the side fin area.
My fin system is speeedfins 115 carbo-fins.
The wave can get pretty big at Windang, Iv’e herd 10-15 feet.
My limit is about 6-8 feet and thats about it. I surf for fun, not survival.
I am 183 cm or just on 6 feet and weight in at 95 kgs
This is a good question Ben, and after careful consideration, I was able to narrow it down to three boards. The reason is that I very rarely ride the same board more than three or four times in a row. Conditions are constantly changing around here and because of that, I’m often changing locations where I surf.
6’6" Wilderness Hull Bottom: Most often ridden since last summer. Took awhile to get used to riding this kind of board but once I did, it has become my go-to board. It excels in point breaks and reefs like Hammonds, Rincon, Pitus, and Ventura Point. It’s perfect for blowing through those hard to beat sections.
6’10" Yancy Spencer Fish: This is the Boardworks epoxy model with Futures 512 Twin fins and trailer. I picked up this board out of curiosity several years ago and have been very pleased with it ever since. It works great in everything from waist high slop to overhead point breaks. It’s also a fun summer board for the sand bars. I used to be embarrassed to be seen with a Boardworks (because of all the bad press) but now I could give a rat’s fat ass. Bottom line is, this thing works in a variety of conditions and has taken a helluva beating over the years with nothing to show but a few chips here and there. It’s a good travel board.
10’ Sr Pato Longboard: I made this board two years ago for myself. It has light concave under the nose, flat in the center rolling into a “V” before the fin and flat off the tail. Single fin with 10" Greenough Series 4. This is my fave longboard. I always bring it on camping trips up and down the coast. It’s a very comfy cruiser from ankle to head high waves and easy to plant my 4 yr old son on.
7’8" malcom campbell 5-fin bonzer shaped from styro and epoxy glassed by clyde beatty----it’s wide(22") and thick (3") with a squash tail abut 5" wide—it paddles fast and goes like a rocket in all kinds of conditions—and since it’s 5 years old with only a few deck dents–i think i’ll be keeping it a while longer—
kind of inbetween—14 3/4" nose and tail kind of an egg-ish hybrid-----for sure not a pointed nose actually rounded off to the radius of our 25 cent piece … actually had a a guy offer to buy it as i came out of the water on sunday…nope , no way
Lately its been my 10’-6" Mickey Munoz Surftech Glide model. It floats good enough to use the canoe paddle and surfs like a 9 footer. Its a good all around board for what I like to do. Frontside, backside, slow waves, hollow waves… Once I figured out the fin set up its been nothing but smiles…
Concaves or double concaves, thrusters and a fin system cause living where we do we have to travel. rocker wise I like lots of nose and tail ( can’t say exactly never measured it. )I use a burford 7’3k with the gun rocker. I like a heavy glass job 6 bottom & 6&4 deck the board I ride at the moment is a bit lighter and feels a bit flicky. My six ten is heavy and a joy to ride. It is rounded square and boring. pins and rounded pins are the go. I like speeed fins , they are good to deal with and no rust. the flex and all the other features are there but I go for the stiffer hexalite glass fins. And I like a thick stringer 7.5mm ply . All this taken into consideration I nearly always have to ride 9’2 mal wave size and consistoncy.
