I’ve had luck with the sharpie brand water-based paint pens. I’ve put the pins on top of the hotcoat after sanding the pinline area to 320. I used blue tape pushed down flat with the base of the pen so that there is no bleeding under the tape. You can pull the tape after about 15 minutes. Let dry thoroughly and sand lightly with 320 grit before glossing over.
If I don’t want to gloss, I mix up an once or two or epoxy and seal the pins before sanding the hotcoat.
The only time I have had problems is when i put the paint on too thick or when I didn’t let it dry for at least an hour. This is using RR Epoxy with additive F. I’ve used every color they have with no problems.
Airbrush applied liquitex acrylic. Under Fiberglass Hawaii Epoxy Hot Coat. Not yet sanded. No bleed at all.[img_assist|nid=1048219|title=Bottom pin line|desc=|link=none|align=none|width=307|height=230]
Mahalo’s for all the good pointers. I’m thinking maybe the bleeding and seperation happens more when u are using addf. It dissolves the paint. The FH epoxy doesn’t need addf so it seems to add up? I have both RR and FH on hand - I will do some tests and let you guy’s know. I can’t afford to mess up another board. Thanks again guy’s, aloha.
As Greg says, automotive pinline under the epoxy lam is the easiest most fool proof. I just ordered a bunch of the stuff and will probably never do the old way again.
I have also had good success on top of the lam with the acrylic that PeteC talks about form Michaels Art Supply. Comes in little tubes at about $1.50 per. Just sand the lam to about 200 lay down your tape lines, burnish the tape down, spray clear acrylic to seal the tape (thank you Kokua) and dab it on about every 6 inches or so. Use a squeegee to spread it along the tape using the two tape lines to keep the squeegee up so you don’t scrap off the acrylic. I’ve done multi-color pinlines by dabbing different colors; sort of an acrylic color swirl. Spray a couple of coats of MinWax Polycrylic satin. Not too hard at all.