Beginning shaper that is fascinated by the blend of craft and science. Although born on the coast, I did not like cold water and only went to the beach in summer (when conditions are mostly flat). I eventually learned to surf in my 30s when I lived in the tropics for a few years. Got really interested in my family’s involvement in 1960s California surf culture, and made a documentary about it (24 Cota, available on Vimeo).