10' 6" NOSERIDER

General Discussion
1

OK… Ive researched the archives forever about shaping a 10’6" noserider. Im 6’7" 245 and looking for a summer board to catch everything knee to waist. The most important factors for me personally are that i can nose ride, as well as turn relatively easy. At my height, i seem to have a lot of leverage turning my 9’6" board that i ride now.

Heres what ive come up with soo far…

10’ 6"(from a 10’7" H blank)

16.90 nose

24.50 wide point, 1foot back from center

14.50tail

bottom rolled from tail to hips, flattening out through middle, working up to a slight concave in the nose

domed deck

foil thick back towards hips(3.5") thinning to 2" at nose and tail

fin box 5" up from the tail

Should i run the roll through the entire bottom>?

whats a good fin to hold me noseriding as well as turnin easy?

any comments or advice would be great

2

i would roll the bottom, and as for a fin, i’d go for a pivot fin of some type, cutting fairly deep…perhaps the IFN from Island Fin Design at 11-inches.

3

Thanks for the tip Brandon.

Should the roll toward the tail be more pronounced then thru the middle of the board? If a lay a level across the bottom of my board, how deep would i cut my “rail bands” to give the board moderate belly? Id like to be in that sweet spot of turning with ease, without wobbling to bad while paddling.

4

increasing tail kick and belly roll toward the tail will all make the board noseride even better (the tradeoff is that it will drag you down a bit more when paddling…which is HARDLY an issue on a 10’6")…go for it.

5

Here’s a quik thought.

Just an option.

Get th 11’3" blank, add 1" tail rocker, cut down the nose a foot and net something like a 10’2". Add a 1" balsa stringer and you have one sweet ass board.

I mention this blank because you can get a thicker board in the middle under your body.

ThGoing a bit shorter will let you turn a little better. The thickness, closer to 4", maybe evena tad over 4" will float you just fine. You can still foil the nose and tail down to shave some weight.

Just an option

6

I took another look at your specs…

Your nose and tail dims seem a little on the narrow side for a board that wide. I’d take the nose to over 17.5" and stretch the tail out at least an inch.

And personally i have never liked riding the old logs with the wide point so far towards the tail. I’d keep the wide point coser to the center of the board.

Drew

7

i was thinking that about the nose and tail, too. in fact, i’d widen up the nose to at least 18-inches. it’s a 10’6" noserider, not a 6’4" pocket-rocket. not sure about an exact number for the tail. try drawing it out on APS3000 and see what looks right.

8

One thing about noseriders is that you need more parallel rails, so a wider nose and tail are usually necessary, not only for that reason but for flotation. As an example, the Joel Tudor Model T has a 16" tail and I think the nose is around 20".

You need pronounced tail kick to hold the tail down, soft 50/50 rails, and some nose kick, but not too much. I would also consider the 11’ 3" blank as stated before. It has lots of volume and allows you versatility in shaping. I’d go with at least Super Green on the foam weight. Doug

9

Ive been workin on the dimensions this morning and had to widen the nose and tail as you guys have pointed out. Ive gone to the ole fashion T square and drafting board to get an idea. I also moved up the hips to 9" back from center. As primitive as it is, ive attached what i have up till now./

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10

I’m with Drew - at your & the board’s size, get the nose up to 19" and the tail to 16"+. No concave.

11

I have a 10’6" cruiser (not a noserider) that noserides OK. I’ll post my numbers tonight or when my wife calls with them.

Based on your size, I’d say go both wider and thicker than your origional plan.

For a noserider, I’d also go with more parallel rails than your latest template. That one looks to me to have quite a bit of curve in it. If you get good rocker with your size it will turn, but if your worried about it turning put more curve in the last 24". Your template looks to me to have farely straight although angled out rails in the the back 24". I’d also consider putting the wide point nearer the center this will help create a more parallel rail line.

A warning though, if you go wider than 24-25" with a lot of volume, you will not have much glass available when you turn your laps. My board is about 4" at the stringer and keeps a fairly 50/50 full rail with moderate deck dome and belly roll, certainly not pinched, and my 30" wrapped just confortable to where I wanted my cut lap.

I’ll also get you my straigt edge to rail line belly roll measurement when I get home tonight.

b.t.w. I have never built or ridden a nose rider, but it is on my list. My comments are all based on observation and my research leading up to my nose rider this spring.

Oh and the APS s/w (which is free) http://aps3000.com/software/software.html is prety easy to work with and play with template possibilities. Great for looking at options side by side. I have only used it so far for outline templates not thickness, rocker and foil. I’m sure that is not too much harder to figure out but I have not had the time to sit down and play with that part yet.

12

Thanks for all the help everyone. Your advice is right on point.

13

the 10’7 H seems to be a great choice. if you want more thickness and maybe a little shorter board, might want to look at the 10’3 edwards blank.

in any case, i’d suggest using classic weight foam, which i’ve found to be easy to shape and quite a bit more pressure ding resistant than supergreen. doesn’t add much weight. recently finished a 9’10 using the 9’9W blank, single layer of 8.5 volan on the deck and 6.5 on the bottom weighed out at 23 lbs. if you order the classic foam there might be a few weeks wait. as you know, you can also order increased tail rocker from clark and i’d suggest about 1" starting from 3’ from the tail. also would suggest raising the rail with bottom roll towards the tail, and i am an advocate of wider hips for longer boards for small waves, maybe 15.5 or 16. makes turning easier. i’d use the longest fin box i could get, if i was setting the back of it at 5". i also like narrower noses, but i think you’d want to go about 18" on this one.

good luck.

14

Soulstice: Im gonna tack on alittle tail kick with rolled bottom through the line. The fin is on order.

Drew: Ive beefed up the nose to 19" and the tail to 16.50".

Doug: Parallel rails seem to be the call

Benny: No concaves on this one my friend

4est: good info, look forward to seeing some numbers from you. Thanks for the link.

Peter: Raising the rail with bottom roll toward tail answers alot

Hope to get started this in the next couple of weeks. I cant thank you all enough for leading me the right direction with your vast knowledge. Ill be thinkin about you when im peelin into a nice line, cross steppin my way to the front.

peace

15

sounds like you’ve got everything in order. 19" nose, 16.5" tail sounds great…it worked for Rich Harbour, it should work for you, too. be sure and post pix when it’s all done!

16

I used your measurements and quickly made a file. Got to use the guide point feature cause you measurements were in line, a feature I haven’t used in a while. Seemed to work. You can see the red crosses in the board (.brd) file.

Anyway you can pull the curves the way you like. I didn’t do much with the rocker.

later on

Jimmy

APS3000

17

Jimmyfreeze

I have tried to open the files you ve provided but it says they are damaged. I d love to see what you ve come up with.

18

sorry, not sure what I did there, but I edited the post and the two files there should work better.

let me know if you still have trouble.

some hip in that board but I’m sure you’ll want to make changes, my moves were quick and rough.

Jimmy

19

Thanks J freeze. I really like the rocker profile.

Very cool program.

20

So like I said, mine was not built as a nose rider, but as a cruiser.

10’6" x 17.5" x 24.5" x 14.75" x ~4" and weighs 23-24lbs. The pod is about 4.5"

built from a 10’7"H with +3/4"N last 24", +1/4"T last 24" Rocker option.

50/50 soft rails kept relatively full but not boxy. The deck and the bottom are domed/belled about the same to make the 50/50 rail.

I skinned, cut the template, drew a line mid rail and layed my rail bands to belly and hit the mid point.

The roll indicated at the center of the board (the silver ruler) shows that the middle 8-12" is mostly flat and then rolled to about .5" down ~1" in from the rail.

The roll in the tail area is less pronounced. On the next one, (my brother & the blank are waiting for me to start mowing) I think put more roll in the tail by reducing the flat spot in the middle as I move to the tail. It will also be closer to 5.5" in the pod and about 1" wider at 2’ from the tail. Want to get more rail curve in the last 24".

Oh yeah I have a 15" fin box set at 5" from the tail. At first I surfed it with the fin all the way back but now I have it about an 1" forward from center on a 10" box at 6" from tail. I’m running a generic 9" fin. Want to try some other bigger fins, but I get so little water time as it is I’m just enjoying riding what I built.

b.t.w. don’t take my input as gospel. It just what I did. Oh and there is a nose rider rocker option for the 10’7"H. From the catalog it looks like it is +7/8"T last 36". That would be a really flat nose area. I already have the flattest rocker when I’m out in the water.

The only thing I don’t like about the rocker I have is there is very little tail rocker curvature. It is more of a bend at about 24" and then runs nearly flat from that point instead of curving. This is true on my finished board and on the unfinished blank I ordered with the same rocker.

Mine is superblue, the blank in waiting is classic.

I did mine with RR expoxy and double 6oz deck and 6oz bottom with yellow tint bottom, cut lap and black resin pin line.

Keep us posted on what you built and how it goes.

Oh yeah one last thing. Look at the outlines on Rich Harbour’s web site http://www.harboursurfboards.com/surfboards.html. If you go to the size chart you can see his length/nose/center/tail dimensions for each of hist boards. Might help give you some ideas.

best of luck

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