hey everyone. i just picked up a 10’1Y blank, and i’m wondering what dimensions I should go for. this is my first time shaping a board, so I want something that will be fairly easy to knock out of the blank. i’ve got the basic tools (surfborm, block plane, etc). i’m looking for a classic noserider, most likely going to be a singlefin set up. i was thinking between 9’10 and 10’2. i weigh in at about 155 lbs. could anyone point me in the right direction to some dimensions??? thanks!!
unless you ordered it with a custom rocker, you’ll need to shape that blank backwards to be able to get a good classic noserider out of it.
no custom rocker. why is it that i’ll have to shape it backwards to achieve a classic noseriding board??
The way its plugged, too much nose rocker, not enough tail rocker for a noserider. But shaping it backwards is VERY common - and its got plenty of width in the (intended) tail, so no problem to template…
a classic noserider has a very flat entry rocker (less than 3") and a firm kick in the tail (5"+). the stock rocker in the 10’1"Y is the mirror image of this (5-1/8"N, 3-5/8"T). so, to achieve the proper rocker for your intended shape…flip it around so that the nose becomes the tail and the tail becomes the nose.
is it just as easy to shape backwards? could anyone shoot some dimensions my way so i might use something to go by. i don’t have any boards in the 10’ range so I can’t make a template very easy. thanks!
how much harder will it be to noseride if i DON’T shape it backwards??
it will actually be easier to shape backwards because you won’t have to make any major adjustment to the rocker.
There was a recent thread about doing a 9’8" nose rider from the 10’1"Y blank and flipping the blank was discussed.
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=220496#220496
At your weight you could noseride a sub-10er giving a little more room to get some nose width. I’d say trim a couple inches off each end to keep the rocker centered and get a nice full 18" nose, parallel 50/50 rails with pinched rails at the nose and tail. Maybe a little vee in the back. There is some discussion on dimsinthe other thread as well.
i have been looking at the 9’8 david nuuhiwa noserider shape. someone mentioned using the 10’1y and relaxing the rocker in the front and adding rocker in the back. how would i go about doing this? “the nose is around 18 1/5 mid. 23 1/4 , the tail around 16 1/2”. would these dimensions work? and how would i go about shaping this blank down to a 9’8 nuuhiwa shape?
use those same dimensions, but on a 10’0". 9’8" is about as short as you can go with that board and still have it work right…personally, i like it MUCH better in the 10’0"+ range.
so if i use those dimensions in a 10’ shape… i can shape the blank regular? not reverse it? and that will change up the rocker enough to give me a decent noseriding board?
no, you’ll need to reverse the blank to get the proper rocker…but shaping it is no different…it’s just flipped around…once the outline is cut, it’ll all look the same anyway (only with the correct noserider rocker)
barefeet14,
WHAT PART OF REVERSE THE BLANK, DON’T YOU UNDERSTAND? You’ve been given sound advice by experienced people. Pay attention to it!
Howzit?!? I’ve managed to make 9’6" noserider types out of the 10-1, drawing from the tail. This keeps all the tail lift, but reduces the nose rocker. For bigger boards out of this blank, reverse nose and tail is probably best, like everyone recommends. I just shaped a nice 10-0, regular style, out of a 10-1, and it had good, all purpose rocker. The key to a noseriding type tanker is “forward trim”. Aloha…RH
The 10-1Y blank is a great blank. We did some really nice boards with this blank. Listed below is a write up on one of the boards we made from this blank. Granted that it is not the “old school” noseriders, but it looks great, turns well and rides really nice especially as a single fin. I hope the pics does it justice. I hope this can give you a few ideas.
Dennis
Here is a modern classic Longboard originally designed to incorporate the classic wood look on to a modern longboard platform. The approximate measurements are 10’2” x 18” x 23” x 14.” x 3.” The nose is slightly pulled in and the tail is the classic squash (rounded square) shape. The bottom configuration goes from concave near the nose, flat in the middle and v-bottom in front of the fins. This provides for a blend of maneuverability, speed and nose-riding. The fin mounts are FCS sides and standard center fin box (fins are not included).
Charlie Wong of Bubba Boards shaped this board. Charlie is mostly known for his sailboards as a former board builder for Naish Hawaii. Bubba Boards have been invading the line-ups on Oahu for the past three years. These boards are strong and built to last.
The board started off as a special order 4 stringer 10-1Y Clark Foam Blank. The board was shaped and 4” balsa inlays were installed. The inlay process required about an additional 4 hours of labor. This painstaking method created the classic T-Band balsa stringer look of yester years without the added weight of a solid balsa stringer.
The glass job has two- 4 oz S-glass layers on the bottom and the deck has two-4 oz. S-glass and one-6.oz S-glass deck patch. The wooden tail and nose blocks are made from red wood and balsa. The leash cord is through the fin box.
sorry thrailkill. i get very confused since this is my first time shaping a board and i do not know as much about it as everyone. that’s why i posted this question on the forum…that’s what forums are for. discussion to help people. sorry if i sound dumb, but i am taking their advice and shaping it backwards, it just took me a little while to understand what would be going on with the blank. thank you everyone else for all of the advice, i think i’ve got some dimensions planned out now, just need to get it started. thanks!
The bottom line is to have fun with the process. Good luck with your project!
ok, once again i am confused. i finalized the dimensions i want to this: 10’, nose- 18 1/2", tail- 16 1/2", mid- 23 1/4". i plotted out these dimensions on the board by measuring from the tail of the blank (as my new nose), and 1 foot back only netted me a 17" ish nose. smaller than what i am shooting for. so then i ran my tape measure from the actual nose on the blank back 10’ and marked that off as the new starting point for a nose (about 2-3 inches back from the tail point). then going back a foot it nets about a 18" nose. i can settle for that, not much difference than what i wanted, but the only problem is, doing it that way…the tail rocker is going to be enormous by the looks of it. the front rocker will be virtually nothing, but the tail (since i won’t be trimming any off the original nose/new tail) rocker will stay in tact. any suggestions…sorry for all this confusion, i am a newbie at this so i really don’t know what to do about this.
working with what you’ve got is an important skill to learn, but i imagine you’ve certainly gained some appreciation for the ability to order a blank with custom rocker. anyhow, tweak the dimensions as you see fit. if you wanted to take it down to 9’10" to fit a wider nose, go for it. if you’re set on a 10’0", perhaps you could cut the blank to 9’10-1/2" and then add on a 1-1/2" wood tail block. be creative. also, remember that at the nose and tail you’re going to be removing a lot of the thickness…both nose and tail of a noserider should step down very thin. so, when you cut your outline, the nose is going to be very thick, but you’ll be shaping it up from the bottom rather than down from the deck…so it’s DECK rocker that you really need to take note of.
what i just did, which may or may not be a good way to judge if the tail rocker will be too much…is i put my 9’4 RA “saber” board on top of the blank. i had the tail of the RA lined up to where the tail of the blank will be (on the regular nose of the blank since it’s reversed). taking a step back and looking at it, there’s almost an inch gap between the blank and the board…this just seems like an awful lot of rocker to me…god this is frustrating! i should’ve thought through which blank a lot more…any suggestions? should i just go for it?..what kind of affect is a lot of tail rocker going to have?
lets say i drop it down to a 9’10 or 9’8. where would i begin the measurement from to make sure the tail rocker isn’t so big…??
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what kind of affect is a lot of tail rocker going to have?
It will paddle a little worse (slower), turn much better from the back 1/3 of the board, a little better from the back 1/2, noseride much better and lock the tail in that much sooner.
A board that size for your your size should still paddle plenty well.
I’d suggest taking the length down to 9’8" or 9’10" and push as far forward on the blank till you can get an 18" nose out of it. I would think with good tail kick and rail shape (pinched nose and tail like solstice said) that a 18"x23"x16"ish should nose ride geat.
My 10’6"x17.5"(n)x25"x14.75"(t) fat soft rail flat board noserides reasonable. An extra 1" in the nose and noseriding rocker and you being 5–75 lbs ligther you still have plenty of board.
Your blank selection may not of been ideal but you’ll still get a great board out of it. b.t.w. as stated here before a wide nose does not make for a good noserider (it can help, but not needed).