OK my blank is skinned and I am ready to template and cut (this weekend).
I took a quick try at using a batten to run the curve from my numbers and here is what I have.
(I’ll work the batten more carefully; for one I want a fuller nose I think)
first number is length markers, second is from stringer to edge, third is rail to rail.
T# feet from tail, N# feet from nose, C center
T0, 3, 6 (i.e. zero feet from the tail)
T1, 8, 16
T2, 10, 20
T3, 11, 22
T4, 11.75, 23.5
T5, 12, 12
-C, 12, 12
N5, 12, 12
N4, 12.0625, 24.125
N3, 12, 24
N2, 11.25, 22.5
N1, 9.5, 19
N3", 5.25, 10.5
It is going to be a 10’6" cruiser made from a 10’7"H (+3/4N+1/4T).
I’m planning to give it belly and add a little tail kick, square tail, with soft round rails.
Target numbers are: 10’6" x 19" x 24" x 16" (as thick as the blank will yield after skinning and bellying)
So a couple of questions:
Are my rails too parallel?
How much belly? (how much lower should the rail be than the stringer?)
Is the curvature in the belly relatively constant from nose to tail? (slope of the belly)
should the belly roll right of the tail?
I’d love to see a full outline of my numbers if someone could post a to scale template of my numbers. Still don’t have s/w that I can template with
4est, I see from your web page that you surf C street. So you must live close to Ventura. Go into Wave line surf shop. Over the door is Pauls 10’6" Velzy. Ask Paul if you can take it down and take a look at it. It will answer all of your questions. You may even ask Paul if you can take a templet off the board. I’m sure he will let you.
I’m inland so its an hour to WaveLine but thanks for the tip.
(need to update my site, its a little lacking, but glad to see that some are looking at it)
Yes, its too parallel. And your wide point, if I read your numbers right, is forward of center. If you’re looking for a cruiser with a belly bottom & soft rails, put that wide point about 1.5-2’ aft of center.
I agree - if you can pull down that 10’6" Velzy, you’ll see what we’re talking about. On a board with ‘hips’, if you step back over or behind the hips, turns are super easy because you’re over all the curve. Its like turning a 7-8’ board, if all the curve, hips to tail, is in the last 3.5 to 4 feet.
If you’re making a noserider, flatten out the belly, curve the rails more so they’re less parallel (with the wide point where you put it or at center) and pull the tail into a round pin.
A super-parallel board won’t turn. Just ask Surfore.
Due to software limitations, could not use the 3" down and had to go 6" from the nose - all others numbers are relflected:
Gave you a few options that should be close to your original 3" down objective:
Check P.M. I scaled your dimensions via a hand drawing and offered some tips on fairing the full sized curve when actually making template. As mentioned, outline dimensions to the third decimal point aren’t as important as being happy with the overall curve.
When shaping the bottom, increasing the tail rocker (as you’ve indicated) by an inch or so in the last couple of feet should allow it to turn OK. With a fin box and a couple of fins, you can fine tune the board to your liking.
Your questions about belly transition are tough. Everybody will have an opinion on that. I’d say keep it simple and maybe go with a flattish tail, leading forward to some belly in the middle (maybe 1/2" - 3/4") and maintain that roll through the front with maybe an upturned 50/50 nose rail.
Just my opinion…