11'11" out of the bag...

Mainly for DanB who’s requested updates…

I posted a couple thoughts a few weeks ago about bagging something 12 feet long. It hasn’t been easy. All that’s left now is finbox & hotcoating. Designed for crowd control in the summer souths.

I based the template on a 10’0 Phil E/Hobie. But then over 12’ it looked too parallel. So I added hips…and realized I ended up with a homemade Munoz Super Glide. Ha ha ha .

Its 1# EPS with a redwood stringer. 2" thick balsa hidden in the rails, over the middle 6’. 6 oz-veneer-6 oz sandwich bottom and PU Glue- 1/8" dCell-6oz - veneer - 6 oz sandwich on the deck. Weighs a lot less than you’d think.

Hotwired blank with stringer

Balsa rails on, bottom shaped

Bottom skin in bag

D-cell deck skin with foaming PU glue under, in bag

Laminated deck from the tail

Laminated deck from the nose

The board is looking really good! I can’t see any of the problems you are talking about. I’m getting ready to start my 11’8". Do you think that it would be strong enough if I went with the 1 lb eps, balsa rails, balsa skin route (the standard Bert type construction) or would I need to add some other type of support? Once again you’ve motivated me to get started.

Congratulations Benny…

oh not on the board, but on cleaning out your garage!!!

I dunno who said it…“my wife’s bitchin at me for the mess in YOUR garage”

btw, nice job

Nice job!

What’s the skin wood?

Is that middle dark line stained?

look like the grain goes completely thru…

Long single veneer sheets too?

neat…

Hope mine looks that good after glassing it. a lot of patching required on the pink madrone at the rails, nose and tail. The guitar inlay strips needs to be rebuilt on one side as well as it shifted in the bag. Trying to join two 11"x120" 1/64" thick Madrone paper veneer to 1/32"x1/4"x36" complex inlay strips with tape is a chore and not a good idea as I’ve found out… Trying to sand epoxy off of 1/64" paper thin veneer is even worse…

send you a pic of the disaster… Just can’t beat those 1/8" and 1/16" balsa strips…

I’ll get it cleaned up though…

weighs a ton already

looking good, what are the dims

Dan, I think the balsa skin & laid-up balsa rails is as strong as you’d ever need. I’m also discovering that S glass over light woods is much clearer than E glass, even of the same weight.

Oneula, this is baltic birch in 8’ x 12" pieces. So from the tip to the mahogany band is 7’7", the band is 5" and the tail birch is 4’ almost. The 2" “stringer” is also mahogany. I did spend some time both bookmatching the veneer pieces & laying up the mahogany for grain continuity. All the veneer is 1/16". I chose baltic birch because its known for accepting bends without too much splitting. Its what Ikea uses for all their bent-ply chairs, for example. The blank has a 3/4" redwood stringer buried down the middle and balsa rails under the veneer & d-cell. Without hotcoat, its about 18#.

4est, 3 5/8" thick at the center, 23" wide at -12", tail is 14 5/8", nose is 17 1/2". Tail rocker is late, about 4". Nose rocker is gradual, also finishing at around 4". So there’s a big sweet spot, centered around 7’ back from the nose, where the wp/hips are. I think finished wt. will be around 20#, less than the 10’ balsa longboard with 1/4" skin cores & balsa rails both buried in the blank AND built up.

The worst & most permanent trouble is that the birch is laid to another ply behind - both 1/32 - that is darker. So where I had to sand out wrinkles, and then lay over patches, and then sand the patches smooth, I have places where the darker stuff shows through. Looks sort of like grain, but not quite. I tried to match the patches to the veneer’s grain patterns but it didn’t always work out. The top entire sheet also slid a bit crooked in the bag which is why the “stringer” doesn’t meet the nose blocks perfectly symmetrically on the deck. It does meet correctly on the bottom. I also had to slit the veneer in a few places & inject in some extra resin where knocking produced hollow sounds. Again, I ran the slits along grain lines, but they’re a little darker than the real lines. Might do some pinlining :slight_smile: and I guess wax on the deck will hide most of the trouble.

Meecrafty, that was Surfore. And yes, I did a lot of housecleaning, including putting the two benches together and leveling the short one up to the height of the tall one so I could put a board this long on them.

Oski is the Cal Bears mascot - since this thing is such a boat, I figured it’d work for a Bear…

Are your shaping racks made from crutches???

Yep :slight_smile:

Glassing racks, really. Too tall & flexy for the shaping (which is done on special little narrow sawhorses I made).

Quote:

Mainly for DanB who’s requested updates…

See… Its not just me who is interested. Its almost an obligation to keep us up to date

Well, its a dang good thing I finally got than camera, then, eh?? :slight_smile:

What size wood did you start off with. Doesn’t look like several lined up pieces like on your balsa boards. I went to macbeath hardwood to check out the wood and noticed that the don’t have balsa sheets. What you use to cut the balsa to thin sheets? what thickness did you do or what do you recommend. Haven’t worked on my board for a while because I’ve been packing and moving. You think 5-minute epoxy will be a good way to glue up the rails.

Benny I’m tying to work out your layup So ontop of the eps you have a layer of glass then 1/4 dcell then 1/16 baltic pine, have I got that right?

Rickdog-I buy the 4" square balsa sticks at MacBeath & cut my own strips to about 1/8" thick. This board is not balsa, but 2’ x 8’ sheets of Baltic Birch veneer, 1/16" or maybe 1/32" thick.

Bluejuice, yes, with a thin veneer like this one, I think the preferred sandwich skin would be glass/d-cell/veneer/glass. Since I used the d-cell on this one as an afterthought, I glued it onto the blank with foaming PU glue and then went glass-veneer-glass. We’ll see how it holds up. I’ve surfed it 3 times now and there certainly aren’t any signs of use yet…

I know a guy who has made EPS and balsa sandwich boards using a bit thicker than 1/16" balsa which held up. So I reckon you can scrap the Dcell and just go glass, veneer, glass, ontop of the EPS you should also be able to wrap the veneer around the rail and do away with the solid balsa in the rail.

hey mike … going down to 1/32 veneer over 1lb is getting to fragile …

you either need higher density foam or thicker veneer , and doing that with just a rail wrap would definatly be to weak …

it is doable , but with the amount of extra glass you need , it starts to defeat the purpose of lighter and stronger …

you might as well go the cut loose way and do veneer over urethane …

the biggest drama with rail wraps is losing definition over the rail because the soft foam crushes on the hard edges …

hey hows those xps sandwich sailboards hanging in there …

any signs of shear yet … or do you build them so stiff as to not alow the xps to show its weakness when shear force is applied ??

regards

BERT

bluejuice, I made 2 boards of glass-balsa strips-glass over EPS before I did this one with veneer. The one with 3/16 balsa strips is bombproof (a longboard).

Unfortunately, my fish with 1/8" thick balsa strips has developed a tumor. I think surgery is in its near future. Its a bubble, on the deck, where the nose rocker starts to curve up. Looks like the first few hot days of summer convinced the sandwich skin it would rather be straight then curved. That’s what I get for glassing with epoxy in a 55* garage in the middle of winter.

Guess I better look into that post-cure heat cycling thing…

got vent??

regards

BERT

:slight_smile: Nope.

I admit, I thought the vents were overkill. I couldn’t imagine the vent doing much good except for the very local area of the vent itself. EPS ain’t exactly good at letting air circulate, that’s why they make it for insulation!

BUT…then I put together where my delam occured and where you put your vents and realized that maybe local venting is all you need, if its the right location…

Thanks. AGAIN. :slight_smile:

I am confused about the vent thing. I vented my hollow board because there is a lot more air in a hollow than in an EPS board. If water gets in my hollow because I forgot to tighten the vent plug then it is not too bad. If water gets into my EPS veneer sandwich board it is a big deal. I would love to just seal my board up and forget about it. The thing is it is black walnut veneer and you know it is going to heat up in the sun. I know Bert is for vents but I just don’t want to have to worry about water getting in. If some one has a good argument for not venting I would love to hear it.