I have both of these blanks and i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions about the shaping(especially the rails) or glassing. Any tips will be appreciated. scotty
Scotty, What kind of board do you want to make? I’m guessing if you ordered these blanks you want something over 11’0. You have a lot of options. With proper rocker, thickness, foiling, and rail design, you can end up with a board that actually responds, or a complete log. What stringers do you have? I would definately go with Volan glassing in 8 or 10 oz. Maybe double 8 on the deck or a Volan deck patch…along those lines. This will help keep it in good shape over the years to come. By the time you’re done planing, you will have realized you’ve walked about 3 miles back and forth. Congrats, this sounds like a great project.
I’ve shaped a tandem board out of the 12’3" and its a very big blank. Be prepared to mow some foam. My board is a little heavier than I would have preferred and I didn’t use Volan (just double six). It’s also wide enough that it’s hard to carry – watch the width of your finished board…
hey ghunt, i want to make a 12’0 just really fun summer board. i would possibly like to ride tandem(mostly little kids or light people on the front. im thinking 25-26 wide. 4.25 thick. just like an exaggerated longboard shape. im going to shape the 12’3 first so this is basically the one i want to know about. thanks a bunch, scotty
LOTS 'O WORK! you gonna glass it too?
24 or 25 is way too wide. I have two Frye eagles and neither is more than 23. You just have to make them thick so they don’t break in half.
Lots-O-Fun with the finished product. I recently rode a 12’ Classic Longboard at Waikiki on a small day. What a blast. The flesh/foam ratio is similar to the very first time surfing as a kid. Talk about renewing the stoke!!! However I think they may be tricky to “get right” while shaping. And the width can make them hard to carry. I would love to have Loehr make me one with EDRO to keep the boyancy and make it easier to carry. I have some other ideas. Rob Olliges p.s. They also help when rescuing Japanese tourist.
When approaching 12’ or longer, 24 to 26 inches isn’t too wide, especially concidering what the purpose of the board is. 23" on a board this long requires a very pulled nose and tail to have any curve in the outline. It think his tandem idea is far from a Skip section connecter.
Let’s put it this way. I ride a 10’2 and it is 24" wide! The thing just cruises and can catch anything! I have so much fun working the wave with big turns. Since I went with a heavy glass job, I don’t do much high performance moves with it. Just do what you want to do and what will make you happy with your board. Good luck and have tons of fun! http://www.mastermindsurfboards.com
For a giant summer board that turns easily, put the wide point back from center and throw some extra tail rocker in that beast. As Jim Phillips points out, you need some curve in the outline - a little tricky if you intend to keep it narrow enough to get your arm around. You’ll have a more parallel outline so put the curve where you’ll need it most… in the back third. Check out the Mickey Munoz Surftechs (I think there’s a 12 footer) and you’ll see that he pulls the nose in (it’s not a full “noserider” nose) and the wide point is back from center. A little roll in the bottom wouldn’t hurt either.
how about 20" nose 26" wide and 17" tail wp back of centre heaps of tail kick and about 4’6" of accelerated v thru the tail I thin my tails out to less than 1/4" shaped once the surfs over 3 feet I can manage roundhouses on mine but I do have 275lbs pushing the sucker around.Have you consiered a handle on the deck like those on rescue boards these are very simple to fit you just need to find the balance point when under your arm and glass a couple of 3/16’ aluminium plates about 1" wide and 2" long then trace around the plates onto the foam with them spaced 4" either side of the balance point.route out the two rectangles in the foam and set the plates in with some resin and put a couple of glass patches over the top then glass as usual. when you have finished the board drill one or two holes in the plates and useing nylon webbing similar to that of tie downs for roof racks cut a length of it that is a couple of inches longer than the plates are apart.then cover the nylon with some scrap neoprene and fill the drilled holes with silicone. then before the silicone has gone off secure the handle to the board using high tensile rivets. This sounds complex but is quite easy once you have all the bits and pieces.i set the handle about 4 or 5 inches in from the apex of the rail it doesn’t interfere with water flow and you only have to get your hand around 21-22 inches of board!
thanks all. i plan on sinking leash plugs in the deck to make handles for little kids to hold onto. i cut the outline last night and it looks good. plenty of curve. i worry about carrying it when i get there. thanks again scotty.
oh yea i plan on glassing it also. any advice here would be even more greatly appreciated.
I wouldn’t bother with trying to go for the 20" nose, with the length of rail in the wave, a 16" nose would be plenty and it will still nose ride like a mutha’. This way the hip can be pulled far behind center, cuz yur gunna be standing way behind center to do a real turn, not a full poi pig, but some real curve in the ass end.
yea my nose ended up being 16 1/2 center 25 1/4 and tail 15 1/4. Here is the question. Should i put some concave in the nose and some vee in the tail. Its going to be a single fin. Also how far up would you put the finbox off the tail? thanks alot scotty
Don’t even waste your time with concave, a little roll could be even better. As for V, if it has sufficient tail rocker the V isn’t that important. You aren’t going to be laying it over on a rail and if you do, it better be short and quick, it won’t go far on a rail with you still on the board