Hey Lee, if you can wait until new years I can get to my original bolt and take any measurements you want off of it. I can tell you this much, really flat deck with down rails. vee through out, very mild though forward of where your back foot goes. Bill Barnfield or others may get on here before then and set you straight. Make sure if you want it to send me an email, next week. PM me for an email address.
I free laped the bottom lam , going to sand the laps nice and smooth , than lam the deck with double 6oz going for a cutlap on the underside of the board.
I am using PE for hotcoat and glosscoat. ( board is eps-epoxy btw ) .
I'm trying to determine how and when to aplly the red pinlines and the red lightning bolt.
options are -
1) hot coat - sand , tape , applly pinlines with red straight out of the tube .then gloss coat..
for the lightning bolt I could print it ,I guess, and gloss over it but I don't like the idea very much .
2) pinlines- same as #1
lightning bolt - spray paint/ airbrush over the finished glossed board.
Can you possibly re-size your photos before posting? They are unnecessarily large and make the pages load in a clumsy, slow fashion. There’s really no reason to post photos that are so big, as they automatically get -resized after loading. The problem is that they have to load in full size before the automatic adjustment occurs.
I don’t understand why people post giant photos on forums.
I did a lot of bolts back in the 70’s. I shot them on the hotcoat. Tape off and use gloss resin with pigment. Lightly sand the art before clear glossing. Be careful when polishing as you can burn through the gloss and wipe out the art. I use Reichold gloss resin exclusively. You could also tape off and spray with acrylic. Lightly scuff the acrylic with scotchbrite before clear glossing. I used to do red bolts with black-white back to back pins. Looked great.
Kudos to Sam Cody and Billy Brummet. They were the masters of resin art. I just copied them. Jim Phillips was unreal also but he gets more credit for shapes.
I do not understand this. Are you saying you convert to 800 pixels/inch? Normal for the internet is 72.
I picked one at random. The photo of you holding the blank with your fist in the air and you’re wearing a dust mask. The dimensions are 3264px × 2448px, which is about three times the size of most peoples’ screens.
Cleanlines,you said you shot them on the hot coat useing Reichold closs resin with pigment. Does that mean you are mixing resin, pigment and hardner and then shooting it out of a spray gun, air brush gun, finish gun ??? If you are spraying the resin from a gun how much working time do you have before you need to clean out the gun?
Sorry about that… “Shoot” is just slang for apply. We used to say “shoot” hotcoats,glosses,pins etc. To be specific… when I used to do resin lightning bolts I would clean the sanded board with acetone and a paper towel. Draw the bolt on with a pencil and template. Tape the outline off using 3m tape. Press tape down with a toungue depressor (important). I would then apply the colored resin with a brush (thick…let it flow) . You can pull tape two different ways. First is to pull tape when the resin is wet for a soft edge. Second is to pull it when the resin is jelled fairly hard…this gives a raised edge which is perfect if you want to put another pin around the border I also used to do resin tinted bolts. What looked cool was a yellow tint bottom with a clear deck and a yellow tinted bolt. Put black pins around the bolt and the lap for a great uniform look.
One thing to remember about doing resin pigment (or tint) panels is that it has to be flowed on like a hotcoat or gloss so it will self level and the wax will rise. Putting it on too thin will end up in a mess. I like Reichold gloss resin because it jells fast. LSIlmar jells slow and will bleed. (Just my opinion). I only use poly so I am clueless about epoxy.
I have seen great looking color done on the hotcoat using acrylic spray. The pinlines done by Austin are amazing but that technique is an art in itself. It was first developed by the carriage makers in the 19th century and made its way to signs and custom cars. Have fun and happy holidays.
Hey Lee, I didn’t get a chance to take any photos as my mom called and said she wanted me home a whole 4 hours earlier than I planned. That was 3 hours before the time I would have to leave by that left me with minimal time to get dims. first of all you are going to need about 1/8" v going almost the whole length. Flatten it a little near the nose
for 7’2"x 18 3/4" here are the crucial numbers
tail 10 3/4" nose 11 3/4" wide point 4" forward from center
the rails are super boxy downed but soft until about the last two feet. being about 2"@1" from rail at the center( my calipers are nearly useless so I would make them a little thinner) Last 2 ft thin knifey rails, hard edge starting with the leading edge of fin.
fin placement trailing edge needs to be 6" from the tail, leading edge 11 3/4" from trailing edge. Fin was about 10" deep with little rake.
2 1/8" tail rocker 5 1/4" nose rocker
foil, 1 1/2" thick 1 ft from tip of tail. thickest point on the board 8" forward of center. thickish beaked nose.
Lee, I have and have ridden a few shapes like that. I used to hang at the Lightning Bolt shop here in Honolulu when my pal Mitch ran the place for Jack Shipley. Saw a lot of those boards then, it was their time. Mitch was forever taking them home for extended periods - he likely had five or six at any given time. He and I were only riding town then, for the most part, though we did get some mid-size North Shore on occasion.
Now I'm a still mostly a single-fin kinda guy, and somewhat on the heavy side 245# and gotta drop some of that, so generally my boards run to 7'10" x 21" x 3". Bill Thrailkill would probably relate. I find that the old wide-point-forward stuff may not paddle well because to trim, you have to be so far forward that you end up pushing water with the nose rocker. That could be avoided if the board is longer or you are lighter than me, or if you kept the thickness a little further to the rear than was common then.
Whatever floats yer boat, though, looks like you've done a nice job there.
Comment about using the bolt logo: it's my understanding that you can use copyrighted intellectual property for personal, artistic, educational purposes, and as long as you don't sell it. I have avoided doing that logo though I've been asked a few times for it, or another commercial mark.
My work with resin pins is to dry sand the hotcoat with 60 grit, then wet sand the area to be pinned with 220 wet. Use Scotch 233 tape, press down well. Run a thin smear of UV setting lam resin where the pin will go, expose to sun so it sets and seals the tape edge. Mix your pin resin and flow it on quickly with a soft brush, but not too thick or it will sag (voice of experience). Twice around the board, then immediately pull the tape before the resin sets at all. Pull the tape so it makes about a 150 degree angle to the tape still stuck down.
YMMV; others do it differently. I get good results but preparation is extremely important.
Remember the 6P rule: Proper preparation prevents piss-poor performance. Also: Failing to plan is the same as planning to fail.
