airbrushed… didn’t know what to do so I tried to keep it minimal and simple, so I had less of a chance to make it look bad.
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Hi Josh !
Where will you get your 'E.P.S. from ?
What size sheets [width and thickness] do the sheets come in on the east coast ?
It seems like the Americans have to glue two sheets together with their ‘home depot’ stuff yeah ? [to get anywhere near the thickness needed for rocker ?]
…will YOU have to do the same ?
Hopefully one long sheet, rather than patchwork pieces, would make it a bit easier [ ? stronger ?] for your board …
[ The stuff I have will be a good size for HEAPS of sets of fins !]
One question for the people who have made these 'home depot' eps boards....Have any of you had them as long as , say, three years ?
If so, are the decks ‘depressed’ / dimpled heavily now ? [I’m just curious how durable they really are, is all.]
And, how well have the bottoms [and fins] lasted ?
thanks for your help ! benI’d contemplate making one if I knew it would last at least a few years.
Hey Chip,
I think Clark Rubber sells the stuff I’m hoping to get the same type of sheets as benny1 had in the $14 Blank thread.
Josh.
If you can’t find sheets like that that have any significant thickness, and you go for the little thin ones like I did try get in as much rocker as posible that way, then bend in the rest. It makes it easier to shape without a hotwire, and it saves foam.
Death, your top layer of 6 oz on the deck should also be 3" bigger than the board, so you get double wrap (4 oz from below & 6 oz from above) on the rails. With 5 yards you should have enough 6 oz to do a board-shape layer cut to size, with a +3" layer on top and all the leftovers under both of those as your patches.
ok, I get it now.
Well, checked clark rubber today… to my disapointment… Styro they stock only goes to about 4foot long??>>>>…!
Oh well, now i need to find somewhere else…??
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Well, checked clark rubber today… to my disapointment… Styro they stock only goes to about 4foot long…
…which, with a 6" nose block, and a 6 " tailblock, would give you a Rasta-like fish. [just be sure to glass it with aluminium, hemp, carbon fibre , or wood veneer ]
.... serious !
ben
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Well, checked clark rubber today… to my disapointment… Styro they stock only goes to about 4foot long??>>>>…!
Oh well, now i need to find somewhere else…??
Hey josh, thats what I used, if their thin you can overlap the peices, and kinda get them to interlock. But yea, I hope it stays together, but im kinda thinking about the glue I used because its water based, and if it gets dinged my board is comming unglued… you might want to think about that and use epoxy or something if you decide to go for it with the four foot sections… look for it in the pictures too.
And I got my (side) fins glassed yesterday… pictures attached.
Thanks Deathfrog!
PS… I like the 'Fun with Photoshop…
I did my glassing with free laps, but most of the laps on the edges didn’t quite stick all the way, and then when I did the deck its kinda made the deck glass stick up… don’t have pictures yet, but I was thinking if its that bad ill just sand them off and put patches over the holes…
can you put a poly hot coat over a epoxy lam?
This may sound like a really stupid question but it EPS just standard polysterene like you get in television packaging??? I asked the guy in a shop today for some EPS and he said the only polysterene product they had was the stuff like you get in tv packaging. Didnt quite sound right for building boards out of!!!
its what I used, and apperently benny did too and it worked for him!
wicked - cheers i have a couple of sheets so can start my board 2morrow - dependant on hangover of course
You bet - most people I talk to call it ‘beer cooler foam’ !!
You must use epoxy resin, or your foam will turn to mush.
Death, you can use poly hotcoat over epoxy resin, but you’re taking some risks. One, your epoxy lam might have pinholes (especially since you said you got some airbubbles which might need patching) and the poly might get in & start melting the EPS. Second, it doesn’t stick as well as more epoxy and can orange peel/dimple spectacularly as it gels. Or it can chip off in chunks once hardened, as the flex is very different when cured.
Did you use more epoxy in the lam than you expected? 
yea I used all of my quart, but I got some more today. Aperently three yards is about ten or eleven feet long instead of nine, because I had enough left over four ounce to do almost another full layer of cloth on my deck! On top of that I did two layers of six. MY laps didn’t completley wet out, and I found that a mistake, but I was trying to prevent drips and conserve resin, but I guess I should just not worry about that nex ttime. Thanks for all the help, but I also had a question.
When I do my hot coat, I cover my board, but then use that to sand out any funky looking lines and stuff right? and then if I want do a gloss coat over that, or just leave it as is, right?
I did the patch thinggys today… They didn’t really help much but im not going to mess with them anymore… I did my hotcoat on the deck, then started sanding and got little brown spots all over from it, so I stopped and figured because I should wait a little longer for it to cure.
I have pictures…
I took my board out to surf today… it leaked…
It kinda became waterlogged after stitting on it for a while so I tried to catch the next thing that came through, but the tail was underwater and kept dragging and didn’t work…
How do I fix it…
Stand board up in the sun. Drill 3/16" hole on tail for draining. Drill same sized hole about 2’ up from there for letting air in.
Let sit for a week. When it don’t drain anymore, you are ready to patch the 2 holes and whatever leaks on the board.
Paint the board one color, like white, or the UV will distort the blank…unless you used RR UV inhib.
Assuming it’s your first board, the next few will go much nicer.
Scince I had alot of bubbles I just sanded them off, cut away the surrounding glass so there was no delam anymore, and then stuck a vacume on it and sucked out all the water. It seemed to have worked… But before that I found where the board was leaking, and that was in the very tip of the nose, and the corrners of the tail. I had no trouble patching my bubbles, but im not sure how to do the nose and tail…
Sugestions anyone?