3 completely different things....

General Discussion
1

  1. some time ago, i inquired about doing a curved stringer on a 10’6" for a buddy of mine. i have since decided that the board might be better suited for a wood inlay. after i carve out a nice resting place for the wood, what is the best method of getting it stuck in there good and solid. also, the board will have a black tint on the foam…how would koa wood look for the inlay? and also, if you think it’d look spiffy, where can i get a nice thin piece of koa that i can cut to the curve? is it gonna kill my bank account?

  2. my next board is going to be my first experiment with epoxy. i’d like to do a nice yellow tint top and bottom. i’m looking for a bright kinda sunburst yellow. or maybe something like the yellow they use on corvettes. yeah…that’d look pretty sweet. my question is, what kind of tint should i use (brand name??), where can i get it, and at what ratio?

  3. i was watching those videos on rich harbour’s website for the 698456519848165 time, and i’d like to try his “acryllic right outta the tube” method for pinlining. i’m thinking red would look pretty groovy over the yellow tint (and it would match the fin i’ll be using on the board). again, what kind should i get (brand name??) and where can i get it?

you guys are awesome…thanks in advance for the info…

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Hey Brandon

  1. Koa is very expensive. If you’re talking about a piece long enough to make a psuedo-stringer on a 10’6" you might also have a hard time finding it.

  2. I don’t know where you’d get corvette-yellow tint. But somebody must know…

  3. Seems to me from watching that video it was LiquidTex acrylic. Not 100% sure, but that’s what the tube looked like. Pretty spiffy method but I’m sure it takes lots of practice to get it right!

good luck,

K

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Brandon, I recently used Koa for making frames for the Duke stamp. I found it at Frost Hardwood in San Diego. But OUCH! That stuff is very expensive. You can find thin pieces but they are usually hobby size. The longer stuff is inconsistent in quality, so you have to be there at the right time when a new shipment comes in. Colors vary from dark brown to a beautiful golden light brown. One of my favorite woods.

I’ve done the “right out of the tube” method of pinlining, and it works great. And it’s very easy. (The hardest part is getting the tape just right). The brand is Liquitex, as you thought, and I buy it at Value Craft. It costs between $7.00 and $9.00 a tube, but a little goes a long way. You just place the tube over the tape, squeeze lightly and move along the tape. Keep the tube as vertical as you can, or you’ll “scoop out” some of the paint, and the paint will be too thin. The beauty of that method is that you pull the tape immediately after the paint is on, and it is thick enough (the same thickness as the tape) so you can sand it lightly to rough the surface before applying gloss. Dry time is overnight.

I also use the tube paint for spraying. I thin with a little clean water and Future Floor Finish. You have to do a lot of stirring, but the colors are intense and are supposed to last many years. As always I strain the paint through a piece of panty hose.

Good luck , Doug

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thanks for the info, guys…you rock. so i found a place just up the road from me that stocks Liquitex High Viscosity Acrylic Paint. score. now all i need is a hookup for some groovy yellow tint. i think Kokua mentioned awhile back that he gets a really nice bright yellow tint. i forgot what kind it was and where he got it…Fiberglass Hawaii, maybe??

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Brandon, I like the brightness of Fiberglass Hawaii “Sunshine Yellow”. They have other yellows, some are more like butterscotch.

I always open the top of a pigment jar and look at the color that shows on the (usually white) insert in the cap.

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awesome…do you know where else i might be able to get it?..perhaps somewhere a little closer to south florida??