That’s always the big trade off… weight vs durability. Some of the more advanced technologies like vacuum bagging composite sandwich skins over a super light core can mitigate the issue. That’s how Surftech, Sunova and guys like Josh Dowling are doing it.
I’ve also seen some interesting stuff coming from LibTech as they branch out from snowboarding gear. I’m not sure how they do it but it’s likely beyond the basic DIY stuff. Even vac bagging is beyond DIY unless you’re ready to make an investment in a pump, bags, and ‘stuff.’
I guess the big question for you is how heavy is “too heavy?” If you’re bummed because you’re getting some pressure dents, it’s not strong enough, but if you’re shooting for a 5 lb board it’s pretty much going to be a disposable product anyway. Learn to live with it and prepare to buy a new one soon.
If you’ve read in the magazines that professional surfer “X” rides a 5 lb board, remember that they’re in it to promote business. A pro-level 5 lb board is going to need replacement faster. No big deal for the guy who is collecting a salary to ride a specific brand but maybe bad news for someone on a tight budget.
…yes; for longboards is better. For small boards is heavy you feel the difference.
The fact is that with 3x4oz in a hot dog board you still have dents.
You always have dents.
The main important factor to diminish that is not overshaping the blank and that is a thing that these marketing brands cannot do due to the machine…
Also, if you use Arctic, you really feel the difference, because they are heavier than other brands, no matter the density.
For light board that still can hold the abuse, I suggest Surfblanks Brazil in Orange density; choose a plug with thickness similar of what you want, do not overshape, use 2x4oz Aerialite and do a gloss coat; then you have a pretty solid board for the std of the moment and light; lighter than Arctic and US blanks.
Still you ll have dents but dents are not a problem if the glass can hold the board right.
for the 3rd layer just to prevent excessive denting, cut a patch inside your lap and only as far up and back as your feet go and it will probably add 1/2 lb - 3/4 lb
I built a 7’2" x 22 x 2 1/2" funboard out of 1.9 lb EPS and glassed it with 3x4 oz S glass deck and 2x4oz S Glass bottom (with tail patch on bottom). The board weighs 9lbs… I’ve been surfing it for a couple months and there are very few dents on the deck and no real dings.
Foam matters…yes we’ve tried three layers of 4 oz cloth. and other stuff too…lots of other stuff…Swaylocks people have been doing this for a very long time. Did you try a Google search?
What foam are you using? Soft foam is soft foam no matter what.
Thanks for the adivce, I may do the patches. I did do a search, I actually came across an old swaylocks thread but for some reason I couldn’t see any of the other comments but the person who asked the question (maybe something wrong with archive threads?). Anyways, the foam I am using is Millenuim Foam. I believe this one is the 6’0CB blank, http://www.millenniumfoam.com/pdf/catalog.pdf
Oh and the last one I did was a USBlanks blank, two 4 oz.on deck and 1 on bottom.
It feels like I’m stating the obvious, and maybe someone else said this and I missed it, but you could baby-step your way there and replace the first deck layer (closest to foam) with 6 oz then cover with your second layer of 4 oz (which wraps the rail). Yes, it will be a little heavier. Yes, it will be stronger. Yes, you will feel it a little bit. Do you care?
This is closer to how it’s done for stock (read “non-pro”) boards.
To reduce pressure dent you have to increase foam compression stiffness =increase density, some foam type are better than others at same density, and you have to increase flexural stiffness of skin. You can do one of both for better results. Flex stiffness increase with thickness, each time you double thickness you x8 stiffness. You can add more layers of fiber or go with a sandwich build to keep weight low. A 3/4 4oz deck patch will add not to much weight and will reduce dent. A small trick is to lam it first at 45°, cut lap and lam over, slightly more thickness…
