3D printing large surfboard fins

Here is the OpenScad code to generate the internal carbon bar shaft system. You difference this from the fin and UTFB file to create the hollows for the carbon bars.

Using this code will make it much easier to adapt the carbon bar system for different fins on top of the UTFB.

The longitudinal bars should be the same for all fins, but the vertical ones need to be adjusted.

The translation values for the unions are specific to my very convoluted OpenScad file and will need to be adjusted for your own code / translation / rotation.

 

//translate([0,0,1.575])// To check clearance; nothing should breach at 1.575mm= 3.5 perimeters. You may need to place the 1.575 at the x or Y position, depending on how you set the rest of your code.

translate([-15,-10,0])// delete or adjust for your own file

union(){ // Open-Source Version UTFB Carbon Bars 20191019 

union(){// longitudinal bars - these are the 1mmx6mm bars strengthening the UTFB so that the screw-plate-ends do not snap off. One on port and one on starboard.

translate([-44.25,5,2.699])// Longitudinal Bar port

cube([143.5,6.75,1.25], center = true); //

translate([-44.25,5,-2.699])// Longitudinal Bar starboard

cube([143.5,6.75,1.25], center = true); //

}

// End longitudinal bars

union(){// immutable first three bars - immutable because they must be used at their full length to prevent snapping off. 

translate([-16.7,0,0])// Bar 1 ; 3*1mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([42,6.6,3.25], center = true); //

translate([-23.9,0,0])// Bar 2 4*6mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([58,6.6,4.15], center = true); //

translate([-31.1,0,0])// Bar 3  4*6mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([73,6.6,4.15], center = true); //

}

// End immutable first 3 bars

translate([0,-50,0])

union(){// adaptable bars 4 to 8 - these can be shortened to increase flex of the fin. 

translate([-38.3,0,0])

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([396,6.6,4.15], center = true); // Bar 4 4*6mm

translate([-45.5,0,0])// Bar 5 4*6mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([452,6.6,4.15], center=true);

translate([-52.7,0,0])// Bar 6 3*1mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([499,6.6,3.25], center=true); // rounded cluster length

translate([-59.9,0,0])// Bar 7 2*1mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([509,6.6,2.25], center=true); // Bar 7 

translate([-67.1,0,0])// Bar 8 1*1mm

rotate([0,0,90])

cube([500,6.6,1.15], center=true); // Bar 8 ; max length 515

}

// End union adaptable bars 4 to 8

}

// End Union Open-Source Version

I have successfuly extracted the carbon bars on a G-whale fin they were installed into, but not bonded to. Their bases were covered over to help obscure the method and guts of the fin.

 

I only have a handful of these fins left and I will not allow any more to break if I can prevent it.

 

The expression’ Cold dead hands’ comes to mind on the latest versions of these GW fins…I am in hoarding mode.

 

Earlier Gwhale versions I have,  and the Wanderfalke’s  are going to have 5mm carbon rods inserted into the fin through the base upto 6 inches, perhaps 8" depth, inside the fin.  Precision drilling jig needs to be made for this.  The pulltruded rods and 6 inch drills have been acquired.  No more homemade carbon rods, the pulltruded rods seem 100% stronger and stiffer.

 

The amount of pulltruded carbon bars  strengthening the base in the latest fin whose recipe is above, is a huge amount, When bonded into the fin, I expect years of use before fatigue puts the fin in any danger of breaking.

 

Still, I am greedily hoarding those I have left.  They make my longboard sessions so much better, so much more fun, I’ll never go back to traditional dol- fin shapes in it.

Never. 

 

 


phillipjohnw has found out that the STL files still contain the rotation that I needed to use to make the fins fit diagonally on the 3D printer bed.

To make it a bit easier to turn it so a CNC router is happy, rotate it by -140.5 degrees. Plus or minus 90 degrees, i suppose. That should make it fit straight in.