3x6oz deck 2x6oz bottom

I’ve got 2 boards to glass each getting 3x6oz deck 2x6oz bottom.

I’ve only done 2x6oz deck, 6oz bottom before.

Any tricks to working with that much glass?

Do you work all 3 layers of glass at once?

or 1 layer bottom, 2 deck, 1 bottom, 1 deck?

I also want to wrap as much glass on the rail as possible.

Will wrapping all five layers of glass be problematic or a novice glasser?

Would it be worth wetting out in a pan, like Bert showed in the sandwich thread, or just wet out on the board like in Master Glasser? (my primary source of glassing knowledge).

for rice paper graphices, would it only get covered by 1 layer of glass?

will cut lapping all that glass be more difficult? (plan to double cut lap)

Just an idea on how you may do it…

2x 6oz on hull … cut laps… fill deck with 2x 6 oz deck patches and wrap over deck patches / rails to hull with last layer of cloth… free or cutlap…

and your ricies can go underneath each top layer ie: between cloth over hull and ontop of deck patches to be covered by last layer of cloth…

Three layers on the rails would be overkill, and you may have problems on the laps with air bubbles, dry patches, etc. Two is plenty strong and the board may be too stiff if you lapped more. For the double layer on the bottom, cut the first layer to the outline and the second to lap over onto the deck. On the deck, cut the first two layers to the outline and the third to lap onto the bottom. The rice paper lams go under the top layers of cloth. Make sure that you saturate the cloth very well before pulling off the excess. Use more resin and set it very slow. Before you set the paper lams, saturate the cloth underneath since resin won’t flow through the paper well. I recommend that you use cutlaps, baste the lap line, and grind down the edge.

4est,

Bring it to Keith’s get together and glass it there. It’s not that big of a deal to laminate all that glass at once, it just takes more time to let it wet out & soak in. I saw your thread on the problems of getting a bubble free tail and nose wraps, patience weedhopper thats the most difficult part of glassing.

One question, what kind of board are you making that you need that much glass…tell me when your surfing, so i can stay out of the way of a 3x6 glass job? if you run into somebody, you might have manslaughter charges brought against you…It could probably kill, and it would definitely disfigure.

-Jay

I have done similar, and one the main things to do is, when cutting the laps, is stagger the cut, maybe 1/2" to 1" on each layer.

If you have the time, do them each individually, making the first layer, top and bottom, the largest lap. And be a bit more generous than usual with the lap length. That way you are encasing the strongest layer leaving little chance of sanding off your good work.

I have made several tripple 4oz top and bottom, and for shorter boards they were almost indestructable and ding resistant.

An advantage of doing each layer separately is you can lay it down tight, make all the laps and folds neat, and the individual, staggered top to bottom overlap is an incredibly strong layup.

I’m guessing you are making a big board. If you are not, it sounds like overkill.

resinhead

one board is a 2" thick stringerless eps and the other is a 10’7" super tanker. I’d love to bring them to SD but I’m homping to have them finished for xmas gifts (pushing time now). Motivation on the cruiser is because my cruiser is getting deck side rail dents left and right and I don’t want a gift board for my brother to do the same. It is still going to have less glass in it than the Velzy it is molded after, but yeah it will be heavy.

As for the bubbled lap corners, board 1 was 95-100 deg day. I’ll have plenty of working time with the epoxy and cooler weather. The recent thread was less about lap corner bubbles and more about an aproach for re-enforcing just the transport/storage ding area, the corners of a square tail.

peter

your right do full wrapped laps on the cruiser might make it too stiff. I’ll partial lap the inner layers.

wildy

I was wondering if alternating woudl be better/stronger. good to know others did it with success. I might alternate the stringerless. The cruiser I think I’ll just stagger cut a dn partial wrap. (I knew to stagger the cuts, but thanks)

4est,

My humble opinion would be to lam them up all at ones. If you do it individually, your going to have way too much epoxy or resin. Remember epoxy or resin is just the glue for the glass, use just enough but not too much. If you lam each up separately your going to add too much weight.

-Jay

Since you’re going so heavy on the glass I guess you’re doing epoxy over lightweight EPS? No problem wetting out 3 layers of 6 oz with epoxy. Just make sure you spread it evenly and LET IT SOAK IN before you remove excess. Done it a few times now, I’m a novice and didn’t screw up to much. If you’re a novice I wouldn’t really try a double cutlap as it just sound hard to do without cutting into the glass that’s under it. I might be wrong though.

regards,

Håvard

4est…you are making way to much work for yourself on the tanker.

For your tanker you could go i layer 8oz Volan on bottom. On top go 1 layer 8oz Volan and do a deck patch after that cures. More than strong enough. If you are worried about durability then you could duoble the deck layer. Anything more is uter overkill.

You could even knock that down to 6oz’s and it would still be strong enough.

Keep in mind that in composites 2X1/2 is stronger than 1X1, 3X1/3 stronger than 1X1,etc, etc. Just up to you how strong and how heavy you want.

Quote:

Keep in mind that in composites 2X1/2 is stronger than 1X1, 3X1/3 stronger than 1X1,etc, etc. Just up to you how strong and how heavy you want.

Isn’t 2x1/2 supposed to be lighter than 1x1 also? Due to not needing to fill all that corse weave with alot of resin?

regards,

Håvard

3X6oz sounds like a lot of work and extra weight, for the extra strength, have you considered using S glass or carbon. which is stronger than the E cloth,

Man three layers of 6oz!! that things go in to be indistructable

Good point Havard.

The tripple 4oz top and bottom I made ended up being lighter than a standard 1x6 bottom 6+4 deck on a 6’8" board. Everything breaks at a point, but I would rather have the peace of mind in waves of consequence.

4est, you have some descisions to make.

Hey 4est, how about doing a 8oz and a 10oz on the deck, and two 6 oz on the bottom. It would be very strong. That is the way it was done back in the 60s, except we used two 10oz on both sides.