I just finished my shaping room. I am ready to start shaping. I would like some suggestions for noes and tail rocker 18" wide point 1"| back.
Catfish- you where correct on bottom config… In the apex area it seems about a third of board with a flattish curve off center apex… And when you thought about cutting a third nose flip- that is what It ended up being last time I carved rocker in man. Like I told ya, I mow from front and ease off towards center w/out over lap. Same w/tail. I geuss the middle apex area is flatish for speed?
I do this on my own fish as well. Check foil etc. The concaves I never tried yet, but I saw simon anderson and another builder on youtube doin a bit. It doesn’t look too hard to do. Just need to get a surform I left mine @ my dads place. Think I want to try those mr fins? Heard they r pretty drivey.:/?
K… I’ll have to try a finger plane myself. But being the twins on a short board such as this now that I think about it- prob 6.5" up would prob be about right? 7" prob at most.
Ya man the planer is a must ! I am going to order it now so I have it this weekend. I am working with a sanding block and its taking too long. A friend gave me a roto zip with a stone on it and it works great on those side stringers , thanks for all the help.
Ya he's puting them 6.5" and some fcs plugs for a trailer if needed.
2.5 to 3 inches in the nose and no more than 1 inch in the tail
Ok here we go. I thought I would put up some, before and after pics, so I can get some help. This is my first board. I got the blank from a friend who had a broken long board. He was trying to make a 6' board for himself, but as you can see it looks bad. At the moment it is 5'5"- 20" wide.Will be 4' 5" -18" wide . Now it only has 1.75" noes rocker and i need to bring it up to 2.5". Any hints. Thanks
Only so much you can do 'cause you've not got much to work with. If I understand right, I'd cut the length by cutting off at the nose. That'll give you some thickness to work with. Just cut your new rocker in on the bottom. You might be able to pick up another 3/4 inch or so. You are still going to end up with a bit more rocker than you might want on such a short board but...it is what it is.
Your first ride on it will be magic, regardless!!!!
Just flip the nose up a bit more with a sureform and sanding block… Then if stringer pokes out knock off the sliver with a hand plane and gentle sand to clean up… Just work in rocker from ends to near mid-point wherever that is on board? Then blend it all together with surform and sanding block k.
Yes, I started the new outline as far back from the nose as I can. I have a lot of work to do on the noes.The tail is ok, thanks You think 2.5" is too much?
Widepoint is 1.5" back from center, 25" from tail. I was only going to work the front 1/3 of nose, but now I understand it has to go almost to wide point. Thanks for the help.
Yeah you can flip the nose up about a third like you said! But just try to blend it into the bottom so there’s no abrupt broken lines on bottom…
Read about rocker, foil and rails! Read all aout surfboard design and fundamentals man! I’m telling ya it opens dooors. If you have any questions feel free to pm me. I will do my best to answer them. If I can’t, I can’t. But most likely I can. Lol
Ok once you remove the third of foam there… Just blend it into apex, so its a smooth transition. Think of (middle apex) as your pivot-point a flattish semi-thick slight barely noticable curve in the middle board to maybe a total of 24" or so all-together, so figure a foot on either side of your center… Now your nose flip has to blend into the apex with a clean un broken transition, or gradual curve…ok.
Same with tail end! Just go with the accelerated tail rocker the gentleman earlier suggested. If you want a very fast fish, you can flatten the apex curve a bit, but don’t ever make it dead flat cos I think it would break in 2… Curves don’t break they give some. Just a thought. Add some vee panels if you want to loosen it up! Vee from tail to about above the fins maybe half a foot should be plenty! Turn the top rails 4-6" onto deck ok!? Leave a third of bottom Rail there, so that you can sand it blend into the low hard rail, and put a hardish edge on it man, and hardest near fins… It should be real responsive! Check ur foil with calipers and a rular so as not to get the curves out of whack and better float intended rider…
Great , thanks for the help. I get it. A continuas tangent . Going to read on those subjects you mentioned. The stringers on the rail are hard to work. When I finish the outline templet I will post more pics before I dig into the nose.
Yeah you want to use a planer man! A power planer-try harbor freight or sears online. I just got me p20sb hitachi for $99 otd +shipping$ 4.95
If you can swing the-hitachi- go with it. Makita planers are also decent.
Hey dude I’m buildin a fish toobl! A semi short one 6’4" x21" wp up center 2"… Gonne do a twinnie
15ish nose 14.5" tail! 8" wide fish tail. Single concave to spiral vee… The vee I will shave in from at top of fins downwards to stringer @ the bottom. Heard some shaper here does it like that and it counds worth trying? Prob will do about 3/16" vee off the tail tips? And concave inbetween the vee man? Fin I think I will tow about 3" off top nose stringer? Maybe 2"? Will have to mock up and see how it looks? Debating a third box I don’t think so? I will build another tri fin in a dif shape- prob a rounnded square?
Dunno man, generally fishes if they are longish 6’-6’5" seem to have wp center or forward center 2"-3"… And the tail rocker is prob 2" at most? But 2.5" tail rocker will just make it super loose? Chalk this up to practice and plan another fish and put the wp forward center! Fishes all seem to have wp up center 3-4" or so.
Tail rocker I think should be less than 2" and not any more than 2.5" for sure!! Fishes seem to have lowish flat rockers and stubby parallel wp forward look if you asked me. Are you sure you don’t mean you set you wp forward center?
I think I said it wrong , wide point is 1' forward. I ran to Sears and got the planer. Ya man thats what I needed!! I got the noes rocker up to 2.5" and the tail rocker is 1". The board is for my girl,she is small. I had her do some pop ups on the templet, so I could determin the wide point, to make sure it was under her front foot . Someone else told me that on this site., Thanks.
1" forward sounds better… Go with a hitachi or whatever else you prefer? But the sears deal is a winner! P20sb hitchi for $104.90 is a helluvadeal! Hands down.
A surform can also help curve/flip the nose or tail after you plane… Or b 4 even! I shaped my first board w/surform and sanding block. But you having 3 stringers I believe the planer is gonna be ur best friend. Have fun man! 
For the foil on board I heard its generally 1 1/2" thick a foot up from tail and 1 1/4" a foot down from nose… Figure the nose will generally be a 1/4"-1/8" thinner then tail a foot down nose then a foot up tail.and 24" down nose its 1/8" 1/16" thinner than 24" up tail I think?
You may possibly go thinner at these locations I think if your girl is lighter in weight?
Dunno, I check my foil thickness at the sides 0, 12"up nose ,24" middle 24"up tail end, and 12"up tail end.
So you can gauge thickness foil up and down length of board as you shape, thin board from top or bottom to help distribute foam/thickness to surfers weight better. But thinning from the bottom prob recommended as pu foam crust I heard is thicker/stronger on top deck…but you mainly check nose/tail sections to have a sense of balance of thicknesses for float etc…sometimes it can vary. For example: if you shape a narrower nose you can go slightly thicker for float. Or if tail width is wide or narrow you can go thinner on your foil there. Or if narrower- go thicker to float intended rider.
I hear some shapers only check the middle thickness and eyeball rest, some check every 3" on foils, some by the foot- or even every inch! Up to you. But I chose to check foil every foot as its “close enough” I think.so foil it up well and you will have better float etc…
Note: use calipers, a level if you want to check stuff and a rular.th
en figure out how you will do your set-up…
I use the calipers from nose to tail at all the points I’ve listed, and use a rular with calipers to figure out my foil thickness… The level I just use to make sure sides are level/even (own idea).
To add some vee carve it in from above fins down toward stringer and let is ‘peak out’ between fins/rear foot area stance… Use a surform/and sanding block. Maybe start above the twins about 1/3 way up board or less a bit?and shape it in downwards like I said…fyi- The vee helps turn rail over on your turns more. And a spiral vee is a vee w/concave in middle of the panel vee-which holds in more on hollow waves… I’m about to try one.
