was wondering what sort of technique every uses with this stuff, i am mainly concerned with how i am going to apply it without
going through a million brushes.any input would be much appreciated.and yes i am a complete epoxy newbie.
The 5 minute I use I mix with with a putty knife. Too thick for brushes. Just scrape off the epoxy when you’re done. What are you using the 5 minute for?
Quote:
What are you using the 5 minute for?
using it as a glue to glue wood pieces together.
small applications where you can hold it in place while curing
In short, try not to use it.
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Only use it if you need to hold something in place while it is being fixed - e.g. Attaching a glass on fin into position before it is glassed on with fibreglass
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You can’t use a brush, it’s the consistency of peanut butter
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you can’t use it to laminate (you’d need about 20 gazillion tubes even it it were suitable)
Some people have used it for short term ding repair on EPS / Epoxy boards, but if you were to want to do that, I’d recommend the Marine version of the 5 minute epoxy (which from memory is 24 hours cure time - not 5 mins.)
-Cam
yeah bro
you can buy it by the litre from adhesive technologies
costs about 60 dollars and its a lot better quality then hardware shite
and has great strength after 5 mins
can use it for everything just about
gluing on rails,gluing up stringers and blanks,gluing sheets together
fixing dings and even wetting out small pieces of cloth for bigger repairs
seem to last a at least six to twelve months in salt water
i do quick fixes with it and mark the ding with felt pen
when i got more then 4 dings i go and fix them proper like 
mix on a bit of balsa with a bit of balsa and spread it on the balsa with another bit of balsa
masking tape for clamps
yahoo
cant beat it!
Hunty, If you are going to glue-up wood pieces together such as tailblocks or noseblocks, I would advise against using 5 min epoxy. You need more time. Also, the epoxy is thick and you’ll probably get glue lines between the pieces. Titebond yellow glue will work better. 5 min epoxy will work, but you have to work fast, and get some clamps on it.
If, on the other hand, you are going to attach wood to the board itself, like attaching the tailblock, 5 minute epoxy works great. One note of caution: use only enough to stick it to the board. It doesn’t even have to cover the entire contact surface. It will get glassed later, and the glass will hold everyting in place. What you don’t want is squeeze-out of the epoxy onto the foam. Hard to fix without tearout or resin soaking in to the foam.
Doug
cheers doug, that is something i hadn’t taken in consideration…thanks heaps for the tip.It will no doubt save me some time and frustration.
james.
yeah i just wrap masking tape around stuff like that for clamping
and dougs right
avoid drips and excess
it rips out chunks of foam when you hit it later with sandpaper
if you only need small amounts you can buy it in injector tubes with a couple throw away self mixing nozzles that help you squeeze it into those tight and small spaces such as along the base of a fin.
If you want some excitement try using the 1 minute variety for tacking on fins as well as nose and tail blocks.
they also make placing small chunks (versus long thin boards) rail bands on a breeze with no taping required.
the only thing bad about things that kick so fast is the exotherm you get which also tell you it’s working as you hold fast the piece your trying to attach.
There’d this white 2 part epoxy putty that I get from Fiberglass Hawaii that doesn’t get hot but always seems to solidify before I can finish mixing it up and apply it. I haven’t figure out how to use that white epoxy putty/glue yet but it looks good for plugs.
Woodworking Journal recently did a study and found titebond-3 to provide a stronger joint than epoxy or PU glue for glue-ups using wood with flush and gap seams.