60's Belly Board repair

General Discussion
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Hi guys i have this neat 60’s belly board i’m going to be fixing up.  The glass job is really strange though so i thought i’d reach out for some suggestions.  You see the cloth looks all dry.  It kind of looks like they laminated it clear with barely any resin, and did the color in the hotcoat because the color is flaking off. So how to fix this thing??  Im thinking i could fill in all those holes and the exposed cloth with clear sanding resin and sand it back down to shape.  But then there’s the color thats has me a little stumped.  I want to keep it as orginal looking as possible.  You can see the brush stokes on the board, it kind of looks similar to how the Pendarvis’s do their boards http://www.pendo.com/galleries/board-art/

So i’m thinking i should get some acrylic paint and paint over the my sanding resin repairs.  But the acrylic paint alone will just wash off once it hits the water.  Can you mix sanding resin and acrylic paint together???  That might have been what was done here.  It would be really hard to paint it on with with straight acrylic paint and then hot coat over it because you’d most likely sand thought the hot coat and hit the paint. Thanks!

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more pics

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this color is an early faux balsa job

ther’s a wierd tint that I inherited from a gift box’o

left overs from russel or sombody ask at Fiberglass hawaii

I use it to patch and lam old isothalic resin jobs to match

or you could mix red tint w/a micro drop of black

I mean really small amt of black goes a long way

make a small amt to test,like dip a chopstick

in black and wipe it almost all off

and mix it in with a teaspoon of red tint

and it will go a long way

if you wanna do a full new gloss

dip the chopstick in the black

and mix with a wlole jar of red tint

dont dip the chopstick,the cheapie wood

disposables that always break off, with a big and small handle end,

on the thick end the skinny end not more than an inch less is better,like 3/4’’

…ambrose…

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Thanks, yeah i just want to match the patches with the rest of the board, keep it as orginal as possible, dont want to re-gloss it all.  I heard if you shine up classic coins they loose their value and i think of classic surfboards kind of the same way.

So i would want to buy resin tints/opaques to pull this off?  I can’t mix the acrylic paint into the sanding resin to make a kind of hot coat paint?

 

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I got 2 part epoxy too, would that be more compatible when mixing with acrylic paint?  If i use opaques or tints in the resin i dont think i’ll be able to pull off that brush stroke look.

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buy tint red and opaque black to make the base

make two pots of resin catalyse it,seperate into two pots,cups,

one light and one more dense color

brush out base …

and drip a couple drips of more dense color

and just smear one pass and let set.

you can try this on a scrap or old board to test this is the finish

this is in some places called tuti fruti pigment

in waikiki was the specialty of a guy named jits

it was way 1962…

…ambrose…

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are there any threads here or anywhere about how to do a tuti fruti glass job?

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very interesting, you learn something every day…

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This thread should be made a sticky!

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I don’t think this is a tuti fruiti job but instead a cover up to hide the various ding repairs made to the original.  These Jacks Bellyboards were in limited colors and usually clear with a 1/4" redwood stringer & volan cloth.  Back in the day when a kid wanted a surfboard and parents couldn’t afford one, a bellyboard was an alternative purchase.  Just looking at the way the color job is done around the logo leads me to think that’s what has been done here.  I found another one advertised online with a similar color job that is even worse around the logo so I think someone is doing this work to up their value.  I would first remove all that crap resin at the nose where someone tried to patch it.  Second, I would lightly sand down the rails looking for more patch work.  If I found more patches, I would hand sand or lightly power sand off the color coat back to the original gloss/sand coat and then repair the three dings (did you notice the one in the middle of the tail at the stringer?)  and cut & replace the waterlogged sections of the stringer and reglass those areas with 7.5 oz. volan.  The cloth fibers can be recoated with resin combined with styrene thinned way out so it wicks into the fibers.  If I needed to cover up a lot of repair, I would do a solid color sand coat in a similar manner to this yellow/red streak job which does not look like 60’s era to me.  Maybe SammyA can find a picture in an old mag that would change my mind!  Here’s an old Bing & a Noll.  Just my 2c…

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Some background on the boards:

http://mypaipoboards.org/interviews/JimPomeroy/JPomeroy_2009-1223.shtml

Bob

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Thanks surfteach, i think you’re right on about someone doing that as a cover up.  That was my initial impression. On the deck you see where they did that thin stripe just below the logo the color is higher than the board.  Yeah i think sanding all that crap paint or whatever it is off, doing a solid patch job all around, and then doing some color panels is the best way to go. Great idea!  If that paint isnt orginal i’d rather strip it.

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By the time fancy psychedelic colors came along bellyboards were dodos. A mid 60s Jack’s version would have color much like those in surfteach’s pics. Typical was clear, or panels like the red one, above. I must agree with those who think that mgcorrei’s board has been disguised.

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The fin on this thing is pretty screwed up too.  I was thinking about chopping it off and glassing a wooden one on there. Thoughts? I don’t want to upset the surf gods

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