So I’m starting my third board and so far my process looks like this:
Get a good bottom and rocker image of the board
Pull those into aku shaper, figure out what the length of the board is in the image by adjusting the board until the futures finbox is 5 7/8ths long and the board (hopefully) matches up to the dims at that board length
Print the outline
Tape to masonite and cut out a spin template
Square up the top and bottom of the blank
Trace on template
Cut an square the rails
Bring the thickness of the board at both rails and stringer to what I’ve got them at by following the the rocker profile + a hair for wiggle room
Draw on rail bands
do the rails
dome or the deck, or dont
bottom contours
fin boxes + leash plug
glass bottom w/cutlap
glass top w/ cutlap
suit up and sand
hotcoat
Minimally sand
surf waaaaayy before waiting the recommended time by resin research.
My first board took me about 50 hours, my second ~40
2 Questions:
1 What would you improve/recommend changing?
2 How the hell is Jim Banks’ future form different from a raised V with a double concave? I’m trying to understand it because I think my next board is going to be (my best attempt at) a replica of a 6’6 revolution, but I haven’t been able to find imagery where I can properly make out the supposed single concave. I’ve seen the rolled V that looks like it runs from somewhere front of center, but I’m just not getting his whole single concave leaf thing.
I’ve looked at the future form bottom too and can’t see how it’s different to a standard double concave? I trust Jim Banks ability to design a nice board but I think this is just a nice marketing name to provide a point of difference.
Good luck with the build, I have VERY limited experience so wouldn’t pretend to be able to offer any tips on your process.
I’ll be interested in what everyone has to say re the Banks design though.
I don’t use a computer for generating my shapes I do them by eye and hand, so I can’t comment on that. Not sure what square the top & bottom means but sounds like skim the blank. I would foil the board & shape the deck before the rail bands. Foiling can be done from deck side or bottom, depending on the rocker you want. Thinning the nose & tail from below will increase the rocker a bit, depending on the thickness of the blank.
Are you just doing one layer of glass on the deck? No finish coat after the fill coat? I always do at least 2 layers of glass on top or at least one plus deck patch, and pretty much always add a tail patch too. And always a final thin coat of epoxy after sanding the fill (hot) coat. I guess the extra glass is just personal preference but I think it makes for a stronger board.
yessir, “squareing the top and bottom” is basically like skinning it. I just try to make sure its all level.
No, doing two layers of lam, I do one, wait for it to tack up, then do a second. I also tried just doing two layers of glass at once. Both seemed to work fine. Using Resin Research epoxy.
no finish coat, so far it has felt like it “needed it” in fact the hot coat came out so nice i didnt even really want to sand it. I just cleaned the tape line along the rail.
That board is hauling a$$ at 2:10…
My channel bottom did NOT behave except in very smooth wave texture so it could be that, but Byrne had been riding, designing and building channel bottoms for insanely fast Indo tubes for decades.
Id second @daddontsurf on that one, the dude is going mach vodoo and its kinda a bumpy wave face. I believe jim makes alot of epoxies as well so that may be playing a roll.