Wondering if you could give some feedback on the following template. I’m going after a board for the winter months here in New Jersey – 4’ to 8’ beach break stuff. I’m 6’2”, 190/195lb, good paddler/rider, and ride more from the middle of the board. I like an 80’s style board that has a little more width in the nose, and a littler easier to paddle with the 5mm wetsuit season in mind.
6’9”, 20.5, 2.5, 12.75, 14.5, 6 squash. Wide point in the center. Thanks, HerbB
I’d thin and flip the nose, first of all. You don’t need to lever a thick nose out of the water, loosing surface area and float behind you. Since the nose is always out of the water, except for ducking, the thinner, the better.
About a foot back from WP, you might straighten out the extreme template curve (hips) as it’s excessive and would cause a pivot point to lever lever the fins out of the water.
If you like the tail, go for it. Very few sharp cornered squares in surfing.
I’ve got a board really similar for the same kind of conditions over here in the uk for winter.
Mines got a slightly wider tail template going in to a diamond tail. Pretty flat rocker with a slight nose flip, I find the extra nose width a bonus when suited with hood and gloves( I’m 210 lb + wetsuit). The board also has a single concave running all the way through.
Also set up as a 2+1 with a finger screw on a 6" stuart fin (FSC Rawson sides) which lets me alter the board in the water.
Drop me a line and I’ll take some pic’s if you want.
I’m a 150 lbs’er and look at the big guy tri’s and laugh! Most sink down to my Bbutton when I sit submerge the whole board, so would be rrreally fun to paddle against the rips, the tides, and the shore currents.
I just bought a 8’ Brewer Plum from a 210lbs guy, but haven’t tried it yet. Looks kinda thin for real waves, but I’ll reserve judgement till it gets wet.
If you like to surf 'chiptris at 2" thick, more power to ya!!
hows it going. i got a board thats just about those dimentions except it 6’8 and 12" in the nose instead of 12.75 every thing else is exatcly the same middle,tail, squash, thickness. it rides great. i got a futures fin system with F3 fins. best board i ever ridden. if i were you i would make the nose 12" instead of 12.75 although im sure it would ride just fine. im just going by what i got. dont know what your used to.
I pasted your attachment into autCADs, scaled it up and then traced. Looks pretty good…
What are you drawing that in? Just curious. It also looks like you have a line offsetting the inner line by 1/4 inch or so - do you use the outer for cutting out the template (buffer)?
Its really simple to make outlines. Just input the dimensions, then you have to tweek the nose angle and the tail angle and its done. A perfect curve.
The line offsetting the outline is the top of the rail.
I machine my boards usually, though I do use printouts for templates when I am handshaping. But might as well let the machine do the work I figure. More time to surf.
No I don’t usually make the template, I draw a lot on the computer but havn’t actually made many(sample attached, drawn but never made, maybee one day). When I see a cool template somewhere I will take a picture of it or pull it out of a magazine, then I can cut it out, put it on my monitor and make a drawing off it.
If I am going to hand shape a board I just print the template out and trace it on the blank then throw the template away since I will probably not want to use the same one again, if I did I would just print it out again.
I can give out printouts of templates no problem(might cost a few bucks to compensate for paper and ink and stuff). Just glue it to some volan, cut and sand to the line and you have a sweet curve.
If your looking for exact-exact, you can get a template cut by machine or you could just get the blank cut.