I know this has been debated to some extent on swaylocks, and I think ultimately, like most discussions here; it’s largely down to personal preference!
Basically, I’ve just had my blank machine shaped for speed, and my shaper recommended just 6oz on top, he has years and years of experience, so I shouldn’t doubt him probably! HOwever, I’m aware that most people believe 6+4 is the best deck combo! I’m 11.5 st (about 160 ib), the board is a 5’6 mini simmons and I’m not an aggressive, heavy footed rider… The blank is also a very strong blank which is compression resistant. So, ultimately my question is, with the above info, would 6oz be ok? I know it wouldn’t be quite as strong, but weight wise it would be better. Since I’m no massive thrasher would just the 6oz be ok, as this appeals more than making the board heavy, as I’m a little heavy handed with the resin when pouring!
Also, if I did decide to go 6+4, my 6 and 4 cloth were bought from different places, they look exactly the same, but is there any major issue to watch out for with using different cloths - even though they appear to be very much the same.
4+4 would give a decent strength, but at that point i’d just go 6+4 for durability. Also if it’s machined shaped, depending on the operator the deck foam might be weaker than if handshaped. Assuming of course your board is PU. On PU the density of the foam decreases towards the center, so handshapers usually take this into account and remove most of the material from the bottom leaving the deck stronder. If machined shaped that might not be the case. If EPS you should have no worries since density is uniform.
Maybe a layer of 4S + 4E. This will give you a bit more strength with less weight. A little more expensive, but I find that it holds off pressure dings better.
Six and four on the deck is a US West Coast (including HI.) industry standard. Some glass shops go six and six on longboards. Pro boards and team rider shorboards are exceptions and may see any combination of weight and types of cloth based on preferance. Combining brands of cloth should not make any differance, unless you are combining Bondo brand with Hexcel. Lowel
Surfboards skins breaking result from buckling. Dents are effective buckling accelerator. The effective way to increase buckling résistance, and denting too, is to increase thickness of skin, don ´t really care properties of material, in fact a stiffless, strenghless elastic material work slightly better, if use with appropriate resin, because it increase impact energy dissipation. That´s way the classic syntetic plastic fibers work for surfboards. They were used for long time in some industrial “low tech” composit application but now there is effective way, mostly with foaming resin.
so for your board use some skinz or xynol or whatever plastic fiber you find to make a thicker layer on foam + 4oz fiberglass over (best is 4ozsglass and epoxy)
…if so go 6/4…simple enough…I’ve just laminated a rocket fish with6 bottom and 6/4 deck and she’s not very weighty at all…wanted to make a board that will last for a friend and due to the fact that there’s no excess resin she’s a good weight…if you want super light the price you will pay is durability. Cheers rich…get your lam nice and tight and you won’t look back
Just to clarify, almost all my boards are 4S + 4E top, 4E bottom, and if I’m not using a traction pad I’ll get a 4oz tail patch because that is where you get the heel dents. This combo gives me boards that last and are super light.