7' and single , and 6'1 and twinned ....

today I rode my 7’ single fin in some nice shaped chest high lefthanders. Only person out for an hour…[ thank you , dud surf reporters !!]

Then , ran up the road, and borrowed a 6’1 x 21" x 2 5/8" twin [wood] keeled fish.

First wave on the fish, I somehow managed to forget it wasn’t a single . Too much back foot pressure , squirrel up the face , squirrel off the lip and… DOWN ! [face-first. ouch!]

O-K-A-Y then …

So, on the next wave… crouch more , open stance , remind myself to apply more forward pressure [“front foot” surfing ?] … bingo !! Acceleration , speed , hold… [made the section … woohoo !!]

Nice to play around a bit . And see what a “real” glassed-on wood keel fish performs like.

It was good , because for the first half hour , the waves were mainly lefts , then as the wind swung a bit , some peaky rights started happening.

It seemed to me the board flew in the more hollow waves.

Anyway, that was my morning …I’m glad I took Ross up on his generous offer to "try it out , anytime "


…now I can’t wait to get MY "prawn " [‘fish’] back in the water … next week , hopefully !

Great fun changing boards isn’t it!