I haven’t had internet for a month and it just got turned back on today. I am happy to be reconnected with this valuable resource. I am a novice/ hobby boardbuilder, and my methods are generally ridiculous. I have limited tools and resources and cant spend a lot, but it’s fun, though. I Made this eps blank a month ago and glassed it with a layer of 6 oz, but before the hotcoat I had a generally bad feeling about the shape. So I rethought the outline, kinda blended the nose shape of one of my boards with the tail shape of another, did some tweaking. I redrew a new outline and cut off the rails. Then I added perimeter stringers, not so much for strength but as a base to pad out the rails. I am using a stack of bamboo strips for that which came from a mat-type rug which I tore apart to use on the deck of my last board, and there are a bunch of pieces left over. This is time consuming, but inexpensive, and I think it will be rock solid and look nice in the end. Against my better judgement, I hotcoated the board after glueing on the perimeter stringers in hopes of having a crisp definition between the deck and the rails. This is my main question, because I feel like I read somewhere on sways months ago that you shouldn’t lam over unless you sand down to the weave again. It is 1 lb eps, so I would like to lam right over the blue hotcoat with 2 more layers of 6 oz, keeping that crisp color distinction, and minimizing my chance of sanding through the color, which I have done before. If this is a recipe for delamination, I guess I’ll finish working on the rails and sand everything back down to the weave, then reglass, hotcoat, tape, paint/gloss or colored resin…I am also indecisive about my rail strategy. I like the outline I recut. Obviously it needs rails. It seems like I have two options- to add a certain thickness all around, say 3/4", or add just enough to make it round accordingly. Like where it is 1 1/2" thick, add 3/4", where it is 5/8" thick, add 5/16". I am not sure which one of these options will distort the outline more. I guess I’ll go with the same all around at first, and replane it if it looks dumb. Arighty, thanks for checkin’ up on me. D[img_assist|nid=1047225|title=blank remade|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1047226|title=easy does it|desc=|link=none|align=right|width=100|height=75] [img_assist|nid=1047227|title=hotcoat too early?|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1047228|title=adding strips of bamboo with gorilla glue, temporary staples, and clamps|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1047229|title=bamboo strips|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]
If its only delamming you are worried about then I think sanding just enough to get the amine blush off the epoxy hot coat will be enough. I think there are other reasons for going to the weave such as reducing weight and making the next glass lie more flat. However you shouldn’t trust me I’m not an expert.
yes, but your results look really nice. I haven’t built anything for ages, but I was sort of the opposite of you, I used to use really precise techniques but the result looked awful.
Alright MrJ, I’m sold! I’m leaving the premature blue hotcoat, then. I’ll tape where it meets the bamboo before shaping the rails so I dont tear into it too much, then I’ll sand it with 80 grit quickly before glassing. I’m not worried about an extra 6 or 8 ounces on this board, and nobody has said (yet) that it will fall apart if I don’t sand it off. Thanks. I’ll post it finished one day. D
I agree. As long as you dull the surface of the hot coat really well adhesion should be no problem. Since you want to retain the color of that coat, care in the sanding process is advised.
2 votes to lightly sand and none against, yes I think go for it and post the results. You are the only person who has posted the use of garden technology (dirt, shovels and concrete blocks) for board construction, very innovative.
Here’s where this is at: adding all those strips grew tiresome, so I stopped after 3/8ths added to each side. I’ll never bother with this again. I can see the advantage of layering WIDE strips of 1/8th inch material, as you can bend them individually more than something an inch thick, but these strips I was using had to be laid two or three side by side in most areas. I had some xps rips to use for rails one day and I thought it might as well be now. So with those glued on, I redrew the outline…I was starting to lose track of it. Same template, bumped out, but pinched in at the nose and tail to meet back up with the original. Outline looks o.k. to me. I read BBarnfields rail thread and learned a couple things, but I can only apply so much of that knowledge to a board that has already been domed and foiled somewhat awkwardly. On top of that, I took out too much in at least on area on the top band, so now there are some 'woop’s I have to deal with…but better wobbly on the top than on the bottom, I reckon. Won’t be glassing this for a while, $ you know, so I can dither with the rails for a short eternity. I think it was a pic of one of afoafs simmons comes to mind with knifey rails, I could go that route maybe, in trying to smooth out all my warbles. I’ll add a pic or two when it’s done. D[img_assist|nid=1047517|title=xps rails|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1047518|title=new outline|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1047519|title=dinky dow|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
Dpicton, good on you for keepin' on keepin' on. It'll work out. Keep both eyes open the weight issue, though.