Hi everyone! I’m trying to shape my 5th board and this time going a little bigger for me, a simple 7’6 single fin with a pin tail and a round nose. What im not so sure about are the bottom contour and rocker dimensions, i was trying to make a easy padling board with a early entry wave capable of surfing a wide range of waves, smal and head waves.I’ve also read that most shapers use only flat to vee bottoms, although i added a tiny concave of 1/8" on the nose. Tail rocker is 2 3/8 and nose rocker 4 1/2, v tail with 1/4 at 12" and considering adding sidebites. Should i make any changes or give the shape a try? Note that i dont know how to change the fin sistem on shape3d
Will be laminating the board with a fabric inlay and a cut lap translucent colour with a glass on 8" wood fin, hopefully i can show you the final result this year!
Concave in the nose will actually make the board slower and less versatile. 1/8th isn’t real radical, though, so maybe it won’t be a big deal.
At this length, optimizing the rocker and fin setup will be a function of your riding style and skill level and the conditions you’re surfing. If you’re already committed to this rocker then a 2+1 will work well with that. Midlength singlefins tend to work better with a bit less rocker.
Concave under the nose or in the forward third will make this board push water. A slow paddler. Put belly or a little roll in the forward area running back under your chest. Then transition out of that into a relatively flat bottom into a V thru the fin area. The other alternative is to transition into a slight concave thru the mid section to V in the tail. I prefer slight V rather than extreme retro Aussie V’s. Transitions are smoother. Very nice outline and fin. Build that fin base up a bit. May be just me, but I have trouble with larger ply fins staying on.
I prefer **slight V** rather than extreme retro Aussie V's. Transitions are smoother.
Emphasis on the “slight”. You’re running a comparatively narrow tail for this overall width and your template and rocker already have plenty of curve-for-control. So all you’re looking to do is to smooth out those transitions.
Ditto on the wood fin - an all-wood fin of this size will be comparatively fragile by the time you foil it out. Breakages are common with these, especially as they get taller and get subjected to more torque out at the tip when they’re under load.
Besides, this is the type of board that you want to run a flex fin on so you can get groovy with your bottom turns.
I thoght a concave would be something good to add as i olny rode some torq midlengths and they usualy are that way So with less nose and tail rocker what high should the V and belly really be?
In that case maybe building a fin made with fiberglass and adding a fin box is the best as it becomes more adjustable for me, but eitherway are the glass on fiberglass fins also problematic staying on the board?
I dont have anything yet, I usually design the shape and try choose the best blank available or modify the shape if necessary. I’m from Portugal and right now there aren’t many blanks available but the most common blanks I can get are from xtra foam, surfblanks Africa or acrtic foam… (pu)
The Millennium 7’9"P is pretty close in a Natural Rocker. About right at the nose, but a little too much at the tail for your shape. Volume is close enough to get to your “desired"volume without too much effort. If you ordered this blank with 1/2” less in the tail it would be pretty right on. There are lots of others, but they are over rockered to fit your specs. In Arctic you could shorten up an 8’2"E, by pulling the outline back and do it pretty easy. In a US Blank the 7’9"H is most likely. Easy to carve rocker in, almost impossible to take it out. Your dilemma is the reduced rocker of your design. The best bet would be to order the 7’9P or 7’9"H in your desired rocker. Though I am not a big fan of U S Blanks, the 7’9H is probably closer in a stock rocker. Flat as a pancake. Lowel
After looking at the whole thing a little closer; If I had to shape your 7’6 and had to chose between those three blanks in their “Natural” rocker, I probably would pull the 7’6 out of the 8’2. I think if the template is slid back the rocker would be pretty damned close. Anyway after much thought, that’s my $.02. Lowel
Hi everyone! I finnaly got a blank to shape and im ready to laminate de deck, but im thinking about it’s fiberglass schedules… I was thinking laminating the deck with 6+4 oz fiberglass but as it is a 7’6 should i go add an deck patch like 4 oz fiberglass (2/3 of the board) or making it 6+6 oz only for more durability? The bottom has a 6oz + fin patch.
I wouldn’t go less than 6+6 (although 4+4+4 would be better). If you’re riding it as a singlefin you could add a deckpatch to that. Remember, with singlefins you’re letting the board do most of the work (especially the longer rail line) so a moderate weight will provide a smoother ride than a lighter weight.
Yes it is! I was machined in the same surfshop where i buyed the blank (FATUM), the people there were super nice and let me saw the machining process witch was very nice because i took recently a cnc course.
So if i make it 6+6 and if I added an deck pach of volan or fiberglass what would be the best weight?
I’ve always kept at least one midlength singlefin in my personal quiver for the last 25+ years. The worst one (FOR ME) that I ever built was an EPS/Epoxy build where I moved away from the traditional-style bottoms into a more aggresive shortboard-style bottom and rails. The board was fast and sensitive and rode high in the water in the manner that you want a multifin shortboard to act, but it didn’t suit my riding style at all. I added some side fins (which also means using a smaller cutaway for the centerfin) and gave it to a family member and he loves it. But then again, he is doing that spastic HPLB thing. Which is why I never allow myself to be seen in his vicinity when he’s doing that. I’d take my logo off the board if I could, but it’s too late for that.
Anyways to your point, a moderate weight in the 11# - 12# range (or maybe a little heavier) would probably be a good weight for that sized board. You want the board to carry into and out of your bottom turn. You’re going to trim around the sectioning wave, not do an air over it.
An old post on this site compared equal weights of fiberglass but different number of layers. If I remember correctly, the lighter weight fabrics combined were superior to an equal weight single layer… more resistant to punctures (dings.) https://www.swaylocks.com/comment/68386#comment-68386
Volan and Silane are types of fiberglass treatments to enhance bonding with resins. Generally speaking there isn’t a significant difference in strength between fiberglass treated with either process. In single layers, ounce for ounce, they are approximately the same strength other than certain types of resins might bond better with one or the other and increase strength.
Volan will add a bit of green tint to your lamination so unless you don’t care about dirty looking ragged lap edges (visible), you should mask and do cutlaps rather than freelaps. Volan is also the least environmentally friendly of the two. I think there is some sort of Chromium residue that spreads contamination when it’s rinsed.
Chromium residue and Plasma turds from UFO’s. Just joking around John. I understand what you are saying. I have used a fair amount of Volan over the years though and have found it to be a bit tougher than Plain E or Warp. At least as far as punctures and smacks go. The only technical aspect I have heard info on is “Washing”. The more the cloth is “Washed” the weaker it gets. So there has to be a happy medium between strength and "clarity ".
As promised, here is the finished board and fin! Had some troubles making the pinlines and making the best gloss job i could make, but after a few tries here it is.
Note that i dont know how to change the fin sistem on shape3d
So with less nose and tail rocker what high should the V and belly really be?
