OK - I'm on board # 2, still having fun, still learning (a lot). This board is a 8’ mini long board designed for a tweenage girly girl, mainly Cocoa Beach small summer waves (1-3).The basic design was wide (as possible), low rocker, some inspiration from a Takayama model T, a walden magic, and others. EPS Foam "ashlar" was about 22” wide.I should have glued on a strip to make it wider, but on the other hand I didn’t want it too wide for her to carry easily.Design dims (inches) are: N rocker 3.70,T rocker 2.40.
Widths:
StationDesignShaped (As-built)
000 (got that one right on)
1218.9018.13
2421.5020.75
3622.3021.63
4822.5021.38
6021.8020.38
7219.4018.38
8414.5013.88
965.905.50
The stringers on the sides came about from trying to correct some over zealous rail sanding that was beginning to pinch the tail in too much (I cut out about 3’ of the rails and glued in a strip of foam an then re-shaped to the as-built dims above). At the last second I decided to rip some stringer wood down to 1/16" to create a wood line instead of a glue joint. . Had to take a deep breath before I did that fix but it came out ok. Wide point is about 6” forward. Bottom is spooned at the nose then concave, double concave and slight vee at the tail. Rails are medium to sharp last 1/3.
Question #1:Should I bring in the fwd half a bit or are my “as-built” dims ok to proceed? (next up: tail block, inlay fin base(s))...
Question #2:Should I stick w/ a single fin or add bases for using side bites on bigger days?
I've attached two photos below (hopefully) for a visual.
Thanks for the feedback everyone, we are soooo stoked about this project. I've got a tail block glued up w/ some 1/4 cedar stringer and paint sticks and she picked out some inlay material (dolphins). Half the fun of this project working together! I've done most of the work, but she helps me where possible, like tracing outlines and measuring, etc...
Tadah! She’s shape glassed and hot coated, all went well (kinda sorta) except for the normal first time ooopses (O/S's) including something I’m hoping to get some feedback on – for some reason there’s a brownish discoloration to the glassing in some areas particularly at the reinforcing around the fin boxes and along the stringer and in areas on the deck(see photos below).Wha’ happen?This is an epoxy board RR on 2lb EPS w/ cedar stringer (used 1 cc add F per oz hardener for the laminate, 2cc per for the hot coat). I sealed the blank w/ epoxy/mircro/white tint mixture. My 2nd board (first was a nano 4-6 simmons) so I decided to step up and try a cut lap, inlay and tail block, plus my first fin base install (Futures).Final measurements are 8-0 x 18”N x 21 5/8” x 13 1/8 T x 2 15/16” Th. I'm sold on cut laps, did them top and bottom, lotsa tape but easier to finish (I'm hand sanding lol). Pictures may show a little surface warble but I haven't sanded the hot coat yet. I've got more pics of the process if you're interested anyone. Many thanks to all for the posts on how-to tips (I've been doing some serious research, especially the FAQ's). Any ideas what I did to cause the discoloration?
Did You use Compressed air to blow off your blank? Is it perhaps fine wood dust mixed up in the lam? Just wondering with the tail block and three stringers. Could it be bleed from the wood? How dry was the stringer material? Just spitballing here.
I've never seen that discoloration on a new glass job before. Did you mix the resin in an old coffee cup LOL? Other than that, the board is looking great. I like the little stringer through the sidebites. Gonna pinstripe it?
Thanks for the feedback, I’ve been doing some post game debrief to try to figure out some possible causes:
-Did not use compressed air (don’t have it), I use DNA & new paper towel to wipe down.
-Used some left over glass from the last board to do the fin base football patches (but I kept them in a ziplock baggie to stay clean).
-I don’t think there was any loos wood dust since I clean up pretty good and kept the glass in a bag.
-The stringer was pretty dry, this blank was made and shaped back in June/July.August was tail block and fin bases.Good thing I didn’t quit my day job…..
-I think I mixed up small batch for the fin base patches using a small disposable plastic cup (the little plastic cocktail glasses sold in supermarkets) and used my small spreader.I wet out the patches, then probably spread some of the excess along the bottom of the side stringers, then mixed up a big batch for the bottom laminate (using a new clean official mixing container and big spreader).My top suspects – either the mixing container or the small spreader (it was used on the first board) – didn’t someone else have a problem with a spreader causing discoloration?I’m using a light brown colored plastic Bondo spreader (sold three to a pack).
Gloss coat went on yesterday, I decided against pinstripes because I couldn’t see a good way to blend them with the side stringers and the cut lap came out pretty clean except for some hack spots along the stringer.
Assuming you used Epoxy; What brand of resin? What ratio(2-1, 5-1)? What speed? Fast? Slow? Quik-kick? Did you do any sanding on the patches before the hotcoat? Not the cloth, probably not the blank. It's an "and or" . Either the resin or a combination of the resin and something you should not have done.
Used RR epoxy, fast, 2:1 mix ratio, the discolor showed before I hot coated; I'm pretty sure I contaminated that first small batch of resin I used to wet out the patches - but not sure the source yet.
PS - just thought I'd give a ride report - I'm really happy with the way it rides, I've ridden it in little stuff at CB pier and some bigger stuff further south in Sat Beach and down at MH and it really catches waves easily and turns well. It was a gift, so I have to ask to borrow it (she's sooo stoked w/ her new custom board). Don't really notice the slight cosmetic issues. Thinking of making another one for me....
