8'7" Hollow Balsa

Since I finished Board #12, and gave it to a new home back on the island of it's origin, I need a replacement for it...
Again, I wanted a board light in weight for travel and hiking into remote spots...
The size that I kept coming back to was a mid 8' board with a pulled nose, a rolled bottom and a narrow planshape...
With those parameters I started Board # 13....
(above) All of my boards start with a gluing form planshape...
This one was a shortened version of Board #12, which was a shortened version of Board #9...
(above) The stringer was traced and shortened from board #12...
1/8" mahogany plywood cut by hand with a utility knife...
The cross ribs were done the same way...
(above) Jumping ahead a bit, here's the frame fine tuned and ready for the skins..
The frame only weighed 2#...
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(above) This is the top skin...
I can only get 5' balsa lumber locally (60 miles away)...
So instead of having a bunch of butt joint seams , I laid the 1/4" balsa about 60 degrees to the stringer...
The inside is glassed with 4 oz E-cloth...
The carbon fiber strips are placed between where the cross ribs are..
I added a strip along the stringer for extra strength without a lot of weight gain...
(above) The bottom skin is glued to the frame and the deck skin is ready to be attached...
(above) This shows how the CF strips supplement the ribs in the areas most prone to stress...
(above) Here's the fin box reinforcement...
(above) A single layer of CF is all around the box...
The balsa strips are spring clamed into the wet epoxy / CF to compact and consolidate those elements...
The back rectangle is where the "through-the-fin-box" leash attachment hole will be...
(above) Maybe overkill, but not a bad place for it...
(above) The inside of the nose...
Note the wood removed from the stringer where the vent will eventually be...
(above) Ready for the top...
(above) I have the rails masking taped to make for easy adhesive clean-up after the deck is on...
Notice the balsa strips added along the top of the stringed and cross ribs...
They weigh next to nothing but really stiffen those frame members nicely...
I also used balsa for the router guide strips to define the rail profile...
(above) Polyurethane construction adhesive is on the frame where the deck skin will contact...
(above) Break out the spring clamps...
(above) Again I'm jumping ahead...
I used 1/4" balsa strips and cork for the rails...
These rails have not been shaped at all yet...
(above) Now they are shaped...
But I don't like how extreme the pin-tail turned out...
Soooooo....
(above)....I trimmed off the pin, added a tail-block and softened the tail...
(above) Mo bettah, eh...???...
(above) You can see the leash cord exit point...
I use a simple brass tarp grommet where the cord exits the deck...
The weight before rails was 9#...
After rails was 11#...
(above) All done...
(above) The strips over the stringer are Red Cedar and Nootka Cypress...
(above) The gloss is sprayed professional quality auto clear coat...
Two coats top and bottom...
Wet sanded between...
(above) You can see the bottom isn't really flat anywhere...
(above) I like the fin box up more than most...
(above) This fin is a Rusty 9"...
I removed about 3/4" of the middle rear edge and re-foiled it...
Now, it's got a nice twang to it...
(above) The maker's mark....
(above) Board 13....

Once again, this is a beautiful work.

Those alternated strips always give a very nice look to these beauties.

And how does it ride would ask Chipfish?

Hey Paul,

When the waves have some push and shape this will lots of fun. With her length/width quotion she’ll want a little size to perform. The doomed bottom and single fin placement are sweet marriage. It’s quite amazing that you were able to finish the board out at 13lbs. Funny I have several boards which are configured much differently than your 8’7" but are mid-length boards around 13lbs. IMHO it’s very good weight for a mid-length all-rounder.

Another Master Piece!

Mahalo, Rich

Great photos and write up Paul, VERY IMPRESSING. That is the most beautiful board I have ever seen, I can only hope I can get to that level of craftsmanship.

Cheers.

i am standing and applauding!

beautiful work and excellent craftsmanship as always.

thanks for sharing the journey with us Paul.

I know why you skipped bits in the construction process…makes it imposssible to replicate it…sly work Mr J…

Beeeeeeeeeauuuuuutiful board, have you ridden it yet…?

astounding & faultless workmanship once again. gorgeous finish. a surfboard to very, very proud of. it really is remarkably beautiful. thanks for sharing.

a quick question: why cork on the rails? weight reduction? looks good alongside the balsa? both?

wow, thanks again Paul for an awesome selection of eye candy to inspire all the woodies and wanna-be woodies here on sways, once again, FAULTLESS craftsmenship, certainly a thing of beauty, enjoy…

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a quick question: why cork on the rails? weight reduction? looks good alongside the balsa? both?

hey Oldy, I think you will find that cork is used for 3 reasons:

  1. it is so easy to work with, (can bend and flex anyway you want and can be cut with a utility knife).

  2. has a similar density to the balsa (which aids when shaping the rails etc)

  3. it adds a great contrast to the colour of the balsa, in a way replicating the deck patterns of most of Pauls earlier boards

the cork I used was actually alot heavier than the balsa which was surprising, so it’s definately not for weight reduction.

thanks robbo.

great work paul

impressive weight as well

Yet again another work of art. Thanks for all the inspiration.