I am going to get be shaping a board for myself and i was just wondering what you thought of these dimensions
I am an 18 year old only weighing arounf 75kg, that has been surfign for about 5 years with moderate skill level, i normally ride a slower point break but it will need to be able to handle most waves. I currently ride a 9"2 x 18 x 22 3/8 x 14 x 2 7/8 with 6 inch nose rocker (yeah massive) and 4 inch tail vee tail to flat to single nose spoon. I am looking to keep if not improve turning performance but improve noseriding alot.
Thats an awefully wide board at 23 3/4 I dont think I have ever seen a 9"2 over 23 1/2, even a tail width at 16 is quite wide suppose thats why it could afford to drop mid point and thickness a bit. I didnt want to sacrifice too much turning, I will definatly consider dropping the wide point back to about the centre. I was going to start with just the standard 7-8 inch dolphin phin with 4 inch side cutters, i will give a cut away a go, i have one around somewhere
your original dims seem great for you. i like wide boards, I think Bert Burger regurlarly made 24" wide 9’0"ers from memory. in saying that i’m picking up my lovelly new 9’1" 22 1/4" board this week for more comps and mal club.
I regularly shape 9’0"s similar to the dims that you are speaking of. I don’t have my exact dimensions here right at hand, but they are somewhere around the following 17-18 inch nose-----221/2 --23 inch wide point and15 1/2 -15 3/4 tail. I do them in rounded pins and square tails. Sometimes I concave the nose more, sometimes hardly at all. The concave depends on whether or not the board is intended to be used as an all around comp or mean’t to be used more often as a noserider. I also do narrower 9’0"s in the 211/2 ---------221/2 range. On the narrower model I pull the nose in a bit to make the over-all template flow a little better. Hope that helps. People I have made these boards for have given me great feedback on performance.
i have a 9’1" pintail that is an INCREDIBLE board – probably the best-performing board i’ve ever ridden, and it noserides GREAT! it’s got the option for sidebites, but i usually run it with just a 9" farberow flex fin at center. also, it’s surprisingly lightweight.
here’s a pic:
if you dig it, shoot me a PM and i’ll get you the dims. in fact, i’m getting ready to duplicate the board myself with this crazy new foam i’m trying out.
4dice, I have been trying to draw a template from the exact measurements that you submitted and I find it very difficult to obtain a pleasing curve. I think either you should pull-in the nose a little or go wider at the widest point; 18.5 is very wide for a hi-performance longboard IMHO, especially with a 22 3/8" widest point…
Thanks for the reply, i am glad i have put a post up here.
So balsa you think i would be better of dropping the nose to about 18 or widening the board to about 22 3/4?
I suppose that depends on whether or not i want it as more of a performance board or more of a noserider wouldnt it, the board doesnt need to be super hi-performance but more performance then general?
For rail shape i was thinking reasonably hard at the back to 50/50 but was wondering if i would be better goign 60/40 or something for the mid section?
Also i was going to do a 6+4 oz on top with a 6 bottom but i ride pretty hard and dont have the cash for new boards all the time so i was thinking 6+6 on back third of the board on top. Just one last thing should the rails be strong enough just from where the glass will lay?
from two great HP longboard shapers dave parmenter/jim turnbull
the green and pink boards were the two best HP longboards I’ve used up to now the green being 9’4" and the pink being 10’
the green pressured out on the deck which is something Dave’s boards are know for and the pink I still have after 14 years its still one of the best longbaord shapes I’ve ever seen, Jim Turnbull was a longboard genius lots of old timers in waikiki rode his boards alongs with cippy and sparky’s boards too bad Jim passed away many years ago before I could get more boards from him. That 10’ could just about surf anything from 8’ bombing Haleiwa to 1/2" whiteplains mush.
one thing like balsa said long and skinny sucks, i know casue the orange board had that problem as well as other’s I’ve had. You need curve to made a longboard work. Curve in the right places though…
Oneula, how do you like the Greenough paddle fin on the green Parmenter? True Ames says it’s their only fin that noserides as well as it turns. I almost bought one last week but opted for the Greenough 4A.
The Wavegrinder looks very interesting. I watched a couple of videos they have, but it’s mostly talking about it & not much actual surfing footage. At $65.00 the price is right in line with everything else out there. Thanks for the input on the Greenough.
4dice, you made a few references to “spoon”. It doesn’t mean what you seem to think. The term spoon has nothing to do with the bottom of a board. It is essentially a stepdeck design. You most likely are thinking of nose concave, which has no relation to spoon.
Want to start a new project, want to build a 9’2’’ noserider with a little more tendency to performance. I’m still a little on pondering concerning the rocker profile (nose is on the right side):
I think this should work quite well, but I would be happy if an expert would give his commentary.
