If anyone was thinking about shaping a triple stringer 9’1" Y. I got off the phone with Clark Foam in Florida and they have some in stock for around $125.00 plus tax. I just thouhgt i would let you guys know. I’m getting ready to shape one myself and pick up a bunch of blanks for other projects. I thought i would pass the info. Later, Stephen Berube
If anyone was thinking about shaping a triple stringer 9’1" Y. I got > off the phone with Clark Foam in Florida and they have some in stock for > around $125.00 plus tax. I just thouhgt i would let you guys know. I’m > getting ready to shape one myself and pick up a bunch of blanks for other > projects. I thought i would pass the info. Later, Stephen Berube not bad price, 7 years ago the same blank was 122.00$ at the Fla. warehouse.
i noticed in jim’s video that he is cutting the stringers sideways. is this possible when dealing with cedar offsets?
i noticed in jim’s video that he is cutting the stringers sideways. is > this possible when dealing with cedar offsets? Teddy, by going across the stringer where it exits the rail sideways, you increase the area where the base of the plane rides and increase stability. You can’t plow over this part going fast. I actually place my blade edge at the edge of the wood and slowly plane to the point of where my blade then exits the wood. I start over again until the stringer is flush with the out line, this minimizes tearing the foam aroung the stick and doing cosmetic damage. You can tape off this area and carefully sand away the bump if needed. Don’t pull you paper/screen over the sticks at this place, stay back from it for about 2-3" and carefully dust this area with your fine paper. Tip— razor sharp plane–mimimal cut
Teddy, by going across the stringer where it exits the rail sideways, you > increase the area where the base of the plane rides and increase > stability. You can’t plow over this part going fast. I actually place my > blade edge at the edge of the wood and slowly plane to the point of where > my blade then exits the wood. I start over again until the stringer is > flush with the out line, this minimizes tearing the foam aroung the stick > and doing cosmetic damage. You can tape off this area and carefully sand > away the bump if needed. Don’t pull you paper/screen over the sticks at > this place, stay back from it for about 2-3" and carefully dust this > area with your fine paper. Tip— razor sharp plane–mimimal cut Teddy Jim taught me this many years ago… …“razor sharp” means just that.If the plane blade won’t shave hair it is to dull…cedar is tricky as the grain can be wild and reverse itself.Proper sharpening of blades is a page in itself.