9'2" Hplb

I just realized that I posted a thread about the 9’6" single fin that I am working on and mentioned my hplb but forgot to post a thread about the hplb, so here it is.

It is a 9’2" hplb with a twist. I am making the tail a little Fuller (14 3/4") instead of the standard 14". Everything else is as would be expected. It will be set up to be ridden as a quad or 2+1. Concave in the nose and double barrel out the back.



Here it is getting sanded and ready for paint.



First color is grey


Second color was red, unfortunately it bled really badly and I sanded it all down to start the painting process over.


Here it us after resealing but before resanding

I’m curious what the double barrel in the tail is going to do for noserides. Or is this more of an off the tail carve and floater type board?

All of my past hplb’s have had a double barrel concave and it doesn’t seem to help or hinder them while noseriding, but it does really increase the performance off the tail. I put a hair more rocker in the tail and increased the width in the tail to try to help it nose ride a bit better. I am also 20lbs heavier than when I made my last hplb so I am also leaving a little more volume too.

Nebble…
Double concaves???
Single Mo Betta

Double has always worked well for me on this type of board. Everyone has their own preference.

Just progression 2 me

Your quad is pretty rad. Why do you like the single concave over the double, what advantages have you noticed?

Hello LJ-
Thanks for the build thread. I am just trying to track with the pics and steps:, correct me if I get this wrong:

  1. PU blank machined to rough shape
  2. Rails turned by hand, sand
  3. Spackle, sand, paint, bleed
  4. Re-sand, re-spackle

There’s been a few threads on bleeding paint and stains lately. When it messes up for me, it is usually that the surface under the tape still has enough bumps or pits that the adhesive is not making a complete seal. That combined with runny paint or resin will make it bleed. Good tape helps too but it still needs something whole to seal against.

Have you thought about co-joining your stands and side lights?

The steps are exactly as you said. The first time through I only spakled areas that needed fill, used crappy tape and it bled pretty bad, second try I spakled the whole board. We’ll see how it works today hopefully.
I rent so I really can’t do any modifications to my garage, I’ve thought about side lights but haven’t figured out how to do it and make it so I can take them with me.

Lights-You can see mine on the mobile stands and mounted semi-permanently http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/shaping-bay-lights
I noticed that it was easier to see the blank with the lights. Now if I can only work on that hand-eye-brain coordination thing…

I didn’t know that people used spackle with PU, I always use it with EPS and consider it a necessary evil.

He’s got EPS foam.

At least it looks like he’s got big beads and blown out sections - the joys of eps.

This is eps.

First color is on and again it bled, but I think I will just live with it this time. Unless anyone has a suggestion to fix it without sanding it all off again.



Better tape. Better paint.

Get some liquitex in the can and it will get you familiar with a good paint consistency and fan.

Looks likes you sprayed it HEAVY.

Light coats, let em flash before you do another one.

Eps beads not so bueno for color.

Used the tape they use for automotive painting. The pictures made the paint look heavier than it is. It only bled in that one spot on the deck and it looks like the paint found some beads that weren’t sealed enough and seeped under. Thanks for the advice!

Took WideAWAKEs advice and put out a thinner coat of paint on the red. It looks heavy in the pictures but it was just sprayed, after a couple minutes drying I can see the eps beads through it. It will need another coat.