Just finished shaping my 1st board, 9’5"x24x2 5/8. I am using the following glass schedule: 4 oz, 6 oz, 6 oz on the top, 6 oz and 6 oz on the bottom. My first question, what would be my approximate thickness after applying glass and epoxy? Also, do I need to add more glass since it seems that my blank is thinner than most boards at this size? I had a very hard time flattening the deck which resulted in a thickness less than 3". Looking for some guidance. Thanks
I don’t know the answer to your first question, however making you board thicker by using a ton of glass will only make it heavier. A heavier board will paddle slower. Paddle power comes from the correct foam in the correct places not overall thickness.
Dave
That seems odd. I had a keel fish that had a heavy glass job. Paddled sweet as. The added drive it gave while up was pretty cool too. That glass job does seem heavy though. 6x66 would be fine IMHO, unless its EPS, then its probably fine
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Just finished shaping my 1st board, 9'5"x24x2 5/8. I am using the following glass schedule: 4 oz, 6 oz, 6 oz on the top, 6 oz and 6 oz on the bottom. My first question, what would be my approximate thickness after applying glass and epoxy? Also, do I need to add more glass since it seems that my blank is thinner than most boards at this size? I had a very hard time flattening the deck which resulted in a thickness less than 3". Looking for some guidance. Thanks
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There's a lot of information not given here, so it makes it difficult to answer directly. Pictures always help a lot, the difference in specificity of replies is night and day.
Yes, at 2 5/8" your board is thinner than most 9' 5" longboards. You don't say if it is a triple stringer or single. I'm going to assume it is a single stringer. You say you had a hard time flattening the deck, but don't say why you wanted to flatten the deck. As you go thinner and flatter, you will increase flex, and the likelihood of breakage.
Most boards have a domed deck, as opposed to a flat one, but its all up to the shaper and his goals in shaping it, anything is do-able and has been done, including flat decks and even concave decks.
Your glass schedule sounds heavy, but maybe that's because you need to strengthen the board, now that it is thin and flat? You can't make up for lost thickness in the foam by adding more glass, but you can strengthen a thin board with more glass.
Welcome to Swaylocks, and to your new addiction - hope you are as stoked on making boards as you are on riding them! Always good to get new shapers here, you're in the right place. Make yourself at home, and post up some pics of your project, the more the better.
Huckleberry, thanks for the information. Here are some answers to your questions: Yes, the board is a single-stringer. I am going to use Epoxy, instead of resin as the laminate. Flattening the deck was part of the instructions that I was using, this technique was used to achieve the proper thickness. What would be your recommended glass schedule if you feel that the one I proposed is too heavy? I am using epoxy, which I know is stronger and stiffer than resin, so maybe I could get away with shedding some ounces. I ultimately want to make sure that the board is strong enough to prevent breakage.
I have added some pics for reference and should have more in the next couple of days. The left side of the board is complete in its sanding. I used full modern rails from 22" up from tail then transitioned into 50/50 towards the nose. Thanks again for your help.
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/IMG_1655.jpg
At 2 5/8, it’s a little thin, but I think it would work fine.(assuming your “average” in size and not taking the board in monster surf)
Your glass schedule will be strong enough to make up for the thin board. Also, you can add flex strength by fully wraping the rails with the lam coats.
That is a lot of glass work for your fist board, just make sure you get some resin with a little extra work time.
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I am going to use Epoxy, instead of resin as the laminate. Flattening the deck was part of the instructions that I was using, this technique was used to achieve the proper thickness.
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OK, I'm not busting your chops here, just trying to clarify, for what its worth. Remember, I'm just a backyarder too. Epoxy resin is a resin. As regards the instructions to flatten the deck - I don't think it is generally a good idea to flatten the deck, unless you are after a specific effect. In this case, attempting to get the proper thickness by flattening the deck, you ended up thinner than desired.
If you don't have a good pair of calipers, I suggest you get one, because its an investment that will save you from this happening, if put to good use.
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What would be your recommended glass schedule if you feel that the one I proposed is too heavy? I am using epoxy, which I know is stronger and stiffer than resin, so maybe I could get away with shedding some ounces. I ultimately want to make sure that the board is strong enough to prevent breakage.
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I have not heard that epoxy is "stiffer" than polyester resin (like I said, epoxy resin is resin), in fact, the opposite. My understanding is that epoxy is more flexible. I can't really comment on the glass schedule, but my suggestion would be to glass 6 on the bottom, and 6+6 on the deck, then decide if it needs more glass.
Another reason to avoid flattening the deck is that most blanks are a bit denser / tougher on the outside, the more foam you take off, the more you expose the softer middle. So many shapers prefer to take a minimum off the deck (which takes the most abuse from standing / riding), and do the majority of shaping on the bottom.
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I have added some pics for reference and should have more in the next couple of days. The left side of the board is complete in its sanding. I used full modern rails from 22" up from tail then transitioned into 50/50 towards the nose. Thanks again for your help.
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My suggestion here is not to finish one side completely, then go back to the other side. Rather, work both sides simultaneously. A bit on the left side, then catch up on the right. Back to the left, then back to the right. This facilitates keeping the shape symmetrical. Its hard to duplicate the exact same working conditions when you come back another time, so work both sides together.
Other more experienced shapers may have more to add, so keep an open mind.
Overall, the board looks good, and I suspect you're going to have a lot of fun surfing it!
Great advise Huck!
I don’t know where Jclayton is but…I have noticed that a lot of us east coast guys like a “flatter” deck or at least less of a “domed” deck.
On a funny note: I’m really exploring the “concave” deck for my next personal driver…something that I can settle my beer gut into a little better! Maybe a reverse S deck too!!