A 1st board Pu over RR epoxy, can we say whatever thruster High Speed intronet required PIC heavy

General Discussion
1

Operation Mallorca Blue and Eurreka (air - wreck-a)

There is upheaval upon the megaverse. Clark, after many years of protecting the various known systems, had pulled his forces back an sorryfully launched into the void, exiting into deep space.

Upon the vacuum, the chaos clouded and cleared. There were many things; the punk defender fighting against the awesome Pop Out consortium that had taken over many systems, had joined league, new materials, and rediscovery, and a push for older technolgies . . . a way back to the nostalgic times of the golden age. At the same time a new style born, of high technologies known as composite sandwiching offering a glimpse into the diamond age . . .

And the mighty Pop Out consortium gains strength as its staunch opponents actualize the ’ if you cannot beat them, you join them’ rule. Legend has even Mr. Parmenter, the last holdout has gone. Even the compsand brand name, stolen fresh from the systems who bow to Macintosh instead of the other computor systems and prefer Starbucks and VW’s as their style, the hip Generation Y’s . . .

But other Legends, such as the Genius and Herb have lent a helping hand, and repository of information known as SWaylocks allow many to craft their own wave hunting tools.

But this was our golden age. Long ago it was found that positive energies could be found if one could capture an elusive wave. It was difficult to do, as we seem to nail one out of 100, but that is another story . . . But we manage.

Unable to get photos of Eurreka since the photo capturing technology was very senstive to the dust, the Gecko State and Pont Aeri nations had combined forces to make their own wave hunter craft. This was to gain energy known as stoke, and to pass it along. YOu didn’t need to pass it upon the left hand side, that doesn’t matter. . . .

Here are the glass pics . . .

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For a time blanks were in shortage . . . but after things had calmed down, we were able to obtain one.

The blank: Rhyno, their copy of the Clark 6’ 2 C

This was good, solid blank. Didn’t find too many mistakes . . . no warping, stringer glue up was great. NO bubbles, it did soften once I cleaned the ‘skin’. But it wasn’t that soft . . . It did dimple when I gripped it to prevent sliding off the rack whilst the skin didn’t do so. but not much dimpling.

The heatgun tricked fixed it.

Main issues was the blank was a 6’2 but upon measuring it; it was really 5’11" maybe metric to imperial conversion . . .

The board gekkostate wanted was a 5’10 so no matter.

Shaping was smooth. it didn’t chew up, unless we dragged the planer funkily over the nose.

I would go with this brand of blank again.

Rocker as good it matches the CI Flyer rocker . . . more on the glassing later.

Note: due to the complexity and rarity of the expensive camera, we couldn’t subject to the dusty environs so no pics of the blank available.

Didn’t have issues regarding the shaping of it . . . maybe just a few newbie (the nose is a bit assymetrical) ones like not getting enough out and the rails were too fat . . . but good stuff.

The planer runners tested in scrap foam so they were used to planer stuffs. . . .

This pic was glassing issue … . At the Planet Belforest, where the factory was in the depths of the aged forest (the Pont Aeri people are hip to environment and properly dispose of all things so the forest is chill and nice).

They found out you cannot use the painters blue tape, for that is weak and leaks the resin, so the resin dam had failed.

Also the temp was dropping and the hot was threatened by moisture … .

the rocker after initial hot. The hot was pretty much jacked at this point due to the situation outlined above. It was hardened after exposing to high degree heat by storage in what the locals call, “Honda oven”. but there were holes and it was very uneven.

more pics of damaged hot

This almost shelved the project . . . so we sanded off as much as we could . . . and hit the reset button.

3

Take your time A,

It’ll work out.

Bring it by my shop…I can help you out w/ it.Herb

4

Operation Eureka was a success . . . We had used moura’s shop . . . www.mourasurfshop.com

He was nice, and had a glassing and shaping ops. He had tons of tools and required you bring your own planer.

From operation Angry Lumpkin (classified report on how gekko state and pont aeri gained a planer) they had their own planer to use.

Operation Mallorca Blue was the glassing of the board. Phase two of the process.

The resin of choice was Resin Research www.resinresearch.net

And some of the supplies were gained from www.foamez.com They were fast and helpful, a boon in the age of consumer warfare where the Popout Consortium (NOW new and improved with the people of Han and the Celestial Kingdom filling their ranks)

The weapons technique we used for mixing was simple. Since there is constant war across the systems, gekko state was unable to transport highly senstive and detailed meauring weights and volumetric (volume calculating), and the scientists and technicians, and chemists required for such detailed efforts. Plus there was time constraint and the great outdoors factor and this thing called breeze or wind.

A thread on sways had found it simple. Since the RR used a 2:1 ratio, they used the 3 + 1 cup method. We cannot take credit for , we had found it on a epoxy DAFS mission during search for epoxy stuffs.

1 container cup, 1 cup with tape on the inside 1/3 of total resin required volume, and a backup. +1 cup is a CC cup. Well actually it should be called supercharger cup (if you go by fin sizes)

Basically you pour resin in tape cup up to the tape line. Pour in container. Then you pour resin in tape cup up to the tape line. Pour in container. Get CC and measure out Additive F, dump in container cup. (we used 1 cc per oz of hardner → We followed the epoxy primer → to find DAFS, newbies DO A F SEARCH) formula.

scrape tape cup clean. Then pour hardner in tape cup up to the line, pour into container.

We used the 1 alligator + stardust, 2 alligator stardust, 3 alligator stardust, to count up to 200 while stirring, folding the mix until it was clean. We stirred slow to not whip bubbles.

Then we dumped half on the lam. Lam was free lapped, and we followed the layout mentioned in glassing 101 and masta glassing videos.

http://www.google.com/…master+glasser+video

http://www.google.com/…n&q=glassing+101

We used a squeege to spread it out.

During the lam we used both squeegie ( we used cheapo home depot 99 cent ones) and disposable brush to get the edges.

best describes my glassing / sanding skillz

j/k new tp eater installed; helped pops w/ out while board is curing

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You know, HP, this thread has two real great things going already–one, I personally enjoy reading your crazy ganga-manga posts, and two, what a great thing to bravely post an almost absolute botch job so people can use it in their various ways, be it feeling superior, deriving courage (me), or maybe instructional kine on the salvage process. Kudos.

Question: optical illusion or is that resin coat about fully a quarter of an inch thick? Whiskey tango foxtrot?

Thanks again for taking one for the newb team.

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thanks, the boards been done for a month . . . I’m just late posting the pics & going thru process . . .

7

thanks yeah, its a little thick . . . but that will come when I start posting about sanding . . .

BTW Finding the pics about the lam process is hard, since I was working fast . . . and the camera’s not mine

A clear up on the lam process:

The lam process was pretty much straight forward. The bottom lam had some issues . . . the pot cooked off . . . and it kept bunching up, even though I cut out the Y notch in the nose for the cloth, and the two V’s for the corner of the tail cloth section. It got hot since we were in direct sunlight in the afternoon (3 PM summer, which is good as 12 noon for temp wise) and it was gelling like Magellan.

Plus using a squeegee only found it hard to scrape the resin upon the rails.

When it dried / cured the parts covering the rails had been bunched up . . . We went to work with dremel tool and sander . . . I couldn’t use a knife, volan and RR epoxy was strong.

After an hour of cleaning up, and sanding. the sander was a black n decker, 1/4 square vibro deals that sounds like a billion buzzing hornets.

The Black and Wrecker almost died, it busted out ozone and stopped. But the clean up was nice.

Arrgh. the deck had been nicked up but white hobby filler fixed that.

Lamming the deck came much easier since the issues of the bottom were worked out. We cut the Y for the cloth on the nose, V’s for the tail corners. And slits along the cloth wrapping the rails to release the bunches.

RR mixing, we used a paint tray to hold excess resin and lammed in the shade. This prevented Magellan (ironic since one of my parent descended from the same tribe / people that axed Magellan in the annals of history).

We also used a brush to baste the rails through the cloth and that rocked.

For both, we utilized the master glasser’s method of flipping hte board over on the glass rack to work on the overlaps easier.

It went smooth, we smoothed out hte bumps, which made sanding alot easier for when tuning it up the lam before hotcoat.

Pics are of hot coating though.

After the cheap painter’s tape scenario

we used regular masking tape; witness the power of true masking tape.

The edge held rather than draining up . . .

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Then the inevitable happend.

while fixing the deck . . . the crews got lazy, using the glassing racks.

Everyone at Belforest knows their glassing racks are several inches apart from each other, which makes a fine balance point. During glassing the board doesn’t move much at all, so that doesn’t matter.

During sanding it does. Even though it was hand sanding just the leash loop, the board had slipped off and fell into the lower level of the work area.

They were using the new Milwauke variable speed grinder (cheaper and smaller / lighter w/ lots more power . . . we were careful) with sanding pads, and the board slipped off, and flipped over . . .

It hit the lower level on a concrete cylinder with retaining rods of steel and iron poking 1 an a half inch.

They witnessed the power of epoxy. THe board bounced off. The crews were afraid to move it. The problem was burned into their minds. Rust coated foam holes drilled 1 1/2 in deep, the lam perforated through.

But after deep breaths and flipping the board over . . . JUST A FUCKING RUST SCRATCH. A wipe of sand paper and it was gone.

Everyone knew if that had been PE, the board would have had to been sent to detention and foam filled, cloth patched . . . major repair.

Epoxy was clearly the winning resin for strength. Later afterhours brew and slapping backs they’d laughed at the situation, swearing the board had bounced high . . .

Glassing on fins . . .

This was easy. The Genius had giving us tips and we also used the glassin’ 101 tips.

It was straight forward. We had drawn the line for one fin too close to center so we used a strip of masking tape to ensure the fins were equi-distant from the center.

5 min epoxy, laying down masking tape to hold in ready position. Kardboard jig for cant set. Double check measures and length. Tape for jig ready.

Side fin 1. Threw down 5 min bead on board, then followed with one one fin base. Align outside of shaper’s fin line, slide can’t jig, tape down. Then tape down the fin itself. Taping down with one hand while the other holds. Undo jig, and check against blue background (dad had tarp on a fence so used that).

Next side fin. Same.

Trailer was easy. Same deal but used a square edge and eyeball. Done.

Then cut football patches, cut lenghts of fiberglass rope, mixed up epoxy, soaked rope and footballs, painted fins with epoxy. Then rope went down, then footballs, smoothed out bubbles. . . .

Whee!! glass loopage in the house!

since the first hotcoat was shit, the crews had sanded it down again almost to the wave and re did it.

Chipfish!!! PHOTO BLITZ!!

find the bug!

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Some the Belforest crew art:

don’t laugh, we’re nubian (er newbie artists) hand drawn on rice papel

This was for my Mom’s Catholic heritage (I know I should be practicing more . . .)

My friend Jose, this is for you, the kid in elementary who used to flip out over baseball cards (and had a Lady of Guadalupe shirt he wore a bunch of times) but was killed during a stabbing by some evil gang members . . . people were afraid to open their doors while he went house to house trying to get some help … . human body can only drain so much blood . . .

hand drawn on rice papel. Hope the Lady of Guadalupe is represented enough cuz drawing skills are (refer to toilet)

Ok well not that messed up, but that’s NOT art that’s expression. Go 7 th squadron chicken scratchers!!!

Er actually the 7th is chicken walkers since when their mecha is in human mode, it uses reverse joint legs (like a chicken) as opposed to human style knee / leg actuator arrangement. Thanks Mechwarrior manual for description.

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outline … …

the board’s almost finished!!! Nearly on the phase 3, sanding

random:

fins, crookeder than the striped racoon heads who rob banks!

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Sahweet . . .

leash loopage. We used the pencil wrapped in wax paper and several bands of leash rope. We also used small butterfly cloth patches for additional anchoring . . .

We had some minor touch ups . . . but this was weird. No one can report why the super goo incident happened . …

(no pics of the goo, but pull snot from a 5 year old kid, and its roughly what it is)

Super Hero Goo incident. Note: the combat crews noticed on the final hot coat, that there was some touch ups, not necessary for combat, but for easier sanding. So they mixed a small batch, using these tiny paper thimbles (cardboard finger savers from sewing). The 2 to 1 ratio was adhered to, and a few drops of additive F. And mixed . . . and mixed.

This was where the previous wasted resing would have come in handy . . . this was the price of the end game. They realized using small batches of RR, finger sized ones, won’t work even if meaured out perfectly from thimbles, maybe not enough to go around?

But when applied to the spots the liquid began to gel. For days the crews waited, even sending the blank near the sun to help heat cure it. But for some strange reason, it never left gel stage.

Instead the RR became some super hero goo. It would have been funny, but when the crews tried to sand it, the board leaped off the racks, but the goo stuck to the sanding pad and gave them enough time to catch it before it fell down the stairs.

The problem was getting rid of the super hero goo. It was cool to fling the board, like Captain America’s shield and have it return, then leap over it and strike enemies behind you. But that was not the occasion. It was designed for wave hunting, not a melee weapon. The crews realized the board came in with a built in leash, but they did not like the way it worked like surgical tubing / bungee leashes of the 70’s. No one wanted their heads cut off or eyes speared out for the grey man to eat.

No

Removing the super hero goo. Strange . . . the goo seemed to have a life of its own. When they tried removing it, it would fight them. Not only that is the goo seemed to grant its rider great surfing skill, but heightened their aggression. But this was nullified since the board was not finished sanding and the drag caused it to bog. The Goo even prevented sanding.

The crews soon ran into an old exorcism document, and found that bell tones would work. They took it to a local monastery, and the bells drove the super hero goo, now called venom, nuts. Venom seperated from the board, and tried to take over a nearby fighter ship, but lots of sandpaper and fiberglass dust slowed it the goo down, and it was packaged in a trashcan and then cured.

Weird. But now they could sand the board.

Once the super hero glue situation was stablized thus began sanding.

Sanding . . . sanding was not really a chore. For some strange reason the crews dug it an feel into it.

Since the board now had dual hotcoat, it was thick, and so the sanding process had to begin.

Sanding was best done slow movements, constantly moving . . . We used 80 → 100 then to 220 and finally 400 some range grit . . .

A couple times we sanded through to the weavage, but patched those up with some xtra hot coat . . .

For the fins we used smaller 5 in pads, and also the normal 9 inch buster sanding pads.

Thanks Keith for handing out pads on a get together! It went to use!!!

We also used hand work . . . small thumb sized dowels wrapped in sand paper, a small screwdriver for the leash loop work, and good ol’ sanding blocks.

Sanding was learning experience but we got it down. Doing opposite sanding (you stand on one side, and sand the side opposite of you) helped.

Oh and also like the 101 or master vids tell you . . . . USE 220 OR HIGHER GRIT ON RAILS OR YOU WILL SEE WEAVE

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Fin!

11

Final thoughts … .

Dims

Rocker 6 2 C clark natural

fin arragment trifin thruster cluster, little wider than normal.

20 in wide

15 in tail

13 in nose

2.5 in thick . . .

Board went surprisingly well. We were hoping for dog status at best. But it turned out to be good.

We had drawn the knife edge for the tail to 6 in behind center. It was tiring to surf it, and it had plow power.

(tested a month ago).

Unfortunately for its thickness, it didn’t do so well in the small waves 2 ft, that we were hoping it would work for.

In the rare 4 foot sets, it would catch easy and it was kind a like butter, sliding down, and allowing turns, but it was slow. It was dig dug, the rails dug easily and catched but when it worked.

But it scored a long ride though. one of the longer rides in memory . . .

The glass job was heavy, so after showing to Jim, he suggested to sand off the bead down to where the side fins were. Also thin out the glass coat, especially in the tail.

We did the following mods. The board was improved. It gained better small wave capacity, responded faster, and went well. It lost some of the momentum require thruster work for it, but its a good board.

It has been the go to board unless its like this week 2-3 small . . . this is where the Harbour 7’6 is used.

12

Nice save on the hotcoats. I’d like to fill in some info on your blank, etc.

The Rhyno blank you used sounds like it was the 6’0’’ K-Fish, the longest you can yield out of it is 5’11’'.

It is in no way a copy of the 6’2’ C, rather it actually pre-dates the Clark blank. I believe the plug was done

in 1989. It is Rhyno’s kneeboard blank, but with some re-foiling, can yield an excellent fish or hybrid as you

have done. How’d you like that incredibly tough stringer? That’s some exotic Brazilian timber, I can’t spell it

properly, but ‘‘ka-she-ta’’ is the way it’s pronounced. I think it’s spelled caxita.

Also, doing RR on PU is far from new. I remember glassing Clark ultralights with Greg Loehr in his garage around

1985, when he first started compounding epoxy. I guess technically it wasn’t RR because I don’t think GL had

come up with that name yet.

Looks like a fun board!

Mike

13

Thanks for the blank update . . . That explains it . . . well. The stringer seems a little stiff, good wood though, I had to plane it often.

The blank I got had a stamp that said 62 C and the catalogue at the store pinned had a clark 62 on it . . . described it as such . . . but non store person probably did that . . .

Actually, it’s my first board so the 1st was meaning a first for me. I’ll update the page . . .

14

I double-checked with Rhyno and it had to be a K-fish, they say.

May have been marked as a 6 2 C ‘‘substitute’’ or something at the place you got it.

Mike

15

yeah thanks again for looking into the Rhyno. I’ll definitely use them again.

16

thanks for bringing it up Hiro.

A magic solution no one ever dares to talk about

but all of the PU boards we’ve ordered in the recent past

could’ve been made to last much longer

if we just glassed them in epoxy versus PU.

Maybe someone should address why it’s never been a widely available option in the industry?

epoxy has been out a long long time.

cause if you can do it

so could’ve every PU maker out there ever…

So you can get the best shape from the best shaper out there

or basically any board design you want today

and just get it glassed it in epoxy.

probably last you twice as long.

I’m sure S glass and epoxy resin go togethor just fine and dandy.

was it just ease of use?

or was all epoxy bad until just now?

or was there truly a PU foam/epoxy adhesion problem?

hmmm

How hard was it to sand through that much epoxy to smooth it out?

Did it gum up alot of paper you had to throw away?

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Quote:

find the bug!

In all Team HoHar black op models, I put in blood sacrifices too!!! I find it aids in down the line “driveyness”.

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