A cry for HELP (2 Modify stock Hitachi p20 sb)...

This is a “cry for help”, I read through the archives, I asked around for the answers to my questions about how to modify the “fly adjustment” so that it works to get a slight turn to get full depth of cut, plus zero with a reverse turn… HELP! -Shapa:))

google is your friend. 

 

http://www.calema.com/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=2566

 

 

That’s a great way to mod the adjustment without having to have custom parts made. Install good bearings, cut the bottom off the belt drive cover plate, and re-position the handle to complete the Clark mods. 

Gentlemen - thanks MUCH! I’m going to the library to print the information as I don’t have anything to write on… only screwy thing is, I don’t own a drill press! And those cost over fifty bucks + 20…im only saving about $189.00… plus if i f’up out all my dough…I think ill save and buy the one at foamez. I think I’d rather let the experts deal with it. Thanks man.

It looks like a job for machinists, and that’s beyond my abilities right now. I’d have to get taps, bolts, grinders and the things that scares me is, I fugg up -I’m out shit cold out of my tool, and my dough. I’m going to pass, but thanks a million. Maybe some folk’s can do it?im just not setup for it…If anyone could do the mods for me, and give me a fair price pm me. Thanks man.

My .02 

Don’t know if you have any experiance with the standard, Skil 100, which me believes once you use one for a while you just are ruined. When OPS started up again (about 5 years ago) went searching for a Skil 100 like me had in the day.

No dice! SPEndy! Bought a “Clark Foam 08 re-release Hitachi” and went about it, light and the handle (which has changed) was set like the Skil, my review? + it’s lighter and doesn’t ware U out, - no weight to “plow thru” lumps etc. + buzzes foam good with power. Big - Really what I hate is the blade index it doesn’t’ click like the Skil. And my first rough outs were damn ugly now with some time mowin’ now it is really great for short boards.

Makin’ a lot of LB’s and started looking again (Skil 100) and here’s the deal now with the knock off Precision planner @ $1,200.00 the Skil’s just took a dump! Jumped on one at a local pawn shop for $350.00 type 4.

The guy musta been a crack head the bearings and armature were toast. Like shaping with a vibrator! Got my money back and spied an ad on both EBay and Sway’s (Smitty) refurbished w/ new blades! 7.5 amp Type 5!

Guess what $550.00 + shipping from GA. Best thing me’s done this year even the “boy” is hoggin’ the thing!

Save and search!

 

Screw Foam EZ. Save Your money and get one of these from PeteC. Or a Skil 100.

…you still can do the minor mods (without a machinist) that I told you before but seems that you did not…

+10 - thanks for the advice.

I already filed the corners down -reverb thanks! I haven’t switched to sealed bearings yet. Ideally I wanted to do the mods for fly adjustment, but it’s too much for me without proper tools and knowledge.

+10 yeah, I’m saving up…

Its been a long time since I’ve had my P20 planer out of the box.  I originally had planned on modifying it but never got around to it.  My plan was real simple.  No need to over complicate things.  Basically two self lubricating plastic bushings.  One mounted to the knob.  One mounted to the housing.  The bushings would both be ground down at a slight angle so that when you turn the handle the one bushing climbs the other bushing moving the shaft of the foot in and out.  Basically a cam action.  Shorten or replace the original spring to accomodate the bushings.

you sound like you’d be an excellent mechanic! I probably could do it if I can build confidence. I’m just afraid I’d f*** it up… is the thing difficult to disassemble? CHEERS

mako224 - I was speed reading, and missed the part where you said you didn’t get to it yet… the stock unit seems to work, but honestly I haven’t tried to use the fly adjustment. I just freestyle it…but you gotta hold the thing! :smiley: ideally, id luv to have the fly thing modded, and switch to sealed bearings. I dont mind a stock handle its fine.

Began my career in 1990 repairing and rebuilding IBM Selectric Typewriters which were extremely complex pieces of mechanical equipment.  Then spent the next 10 years repairing and rebuilding photocopiers. I can take pretty much anything mechanical apart, figure it out and put it back together.

What mako’s talking about will work, I had a friend do just that to a Skil model 96 back in the early 80s and I shaped several thousand boards with it. Then got a Skil 100 but when Clark started their mod Hitachi program I got on board and stayed there. 

The screw type adjustment is smoother than the cam, but the cam mod is a little easier. The instructions referenced earlier in this thread for the bendix mod are so detailed that it makes the mod seem harder than it is lol. Still, I’d rather just buy the thing than spend time fiddling with the mod. To each his own…

Here’s a pic

if you end up doing yours - let me know k. Heck, if you got into business I’d think you’d sell quite a lot of them! Just say n.

Mike - is that the new skil planer? And was it difficult to mod? It looks nice btw!

No, that planer is about 37 years old. I haven’t used it in about 30 years, just hung on to the carcass for memories.