A few questions

I’m a 40 year old surfer with over 20 years surfing under my belt. I grew up riding short boards but recently I have found the love of longboarding. I really like riding vintage boards which I have a few of.

I am just looking for some pointers in repairing the older volan style glassing. One of my boards a 1966 Dick Mobley 8’0 V bottom has a couple small dings that need to be fixed. and a few olde ones that need to be sanded and polished. Any pointers  would be great! This board has a W.A.V.E set fin box which I am also looking for a fin for, besides ebay and craigslist does anyone currently make one to fit these boxes?

I also have acirca 1970 7’3 Liddle hull that has a blue tint sanded resin job and a bunch of pressure dings on the bottom. For this board my question is can I put a new coat of resin over the whole board to get rid of all the pressure dings and make it look new again?



DJ B-Reul


It doesn’t matter whether the glass is volan, or not. Fix it the same way as any other PU/PE board.

If that Mobley is 8’0 and has a V bottom it’s more likely a 1968, not 66.

WAVESET replica fins can be obtained from oneworldsurf.com, if you want to spend the money.

Adding more resin to the Liddle might fill in the pressure dings to an extent, but I doubt that alone will “make it look new”.

Look Up Fiberglass Hawaii. They post a lot of instrutional videos on just about all manner of surf-craft building and repair.

Ok cool , thanks for the tim on the volan and where to find the WAVE set fin. 

The Mobley is numbered 55 which when I look it up was made in 66’. But I could be wrong.


When I have low spots - pressure dings - to fill in, I use scraps of fiberglass with the resin - resin alone generally doesn’t do it for me, and the glass is more invisible than adding thickening agent to the resin.


Have any photos of it?

That Liddle looks real nice. I’d love to see more pictures of it.

Huck, Thats a great idea putting some glass down on the low spots. Thanks!

Some more pics of the Liddle and the Mobley coming soon.

I also have a 1963 9’6 Gordon & Smith Skip Frye shape in great condition! Ill post a pic of that one too.


Here are some pics of my 7’3 Liddle. I can not find any markings on it, I even sent pics to Greg Liddle and he cant pinpoint the date it was shaped. He said early 70’s - mid 80’s. 

Length 7'3" 
Widest Point 23 1/2"
Thickness 2 3/4

I would go for a reproduction fin from Erwin Spitz.  Look up hotrodsurfer on ebay.  Original plastic material and look.

I wouldn’t personally fill the dents on the Liddle unless they leak but core Liddle guys have always thrown bondo in the dents then sanded them smooth.

 I don’t usually even bother with pressure dents;  But I have in the past used masking tape to form a dam around a pressure dent and then puddled sanding resin in the dent.  Of course I prepped the dent by sanding before hand.  Then peel the tape and sand flush.  After sanding flat,  put a piece of 4 ounce over it.  Hot-coat and sand.

Yeah, The pressure dings arent that bad, I just think it is such an amazing shape that I want it to look nice & new again. Ill probably just put on a new flex fin and go!

8’0 Mobley

Your Mobley is from 1968. Late ‘67, maybe. WAVESET fins didn’t exist in 1966. Nor did 8’ V bottoms of that type.

SammyA you are most likely correct. I was just going by the number on the Mobley which is 55 shown in the pic, and the Mobley spec sheet also shown.

Most of the hull guys ignore the deck dents as long as they are water tight.  The fix de jour for bottom dents is car body bondo after a prep of 100-120 grit scrub in the dent.  The bondo is ugly but is light and sands down nicely.  No glass required.  Keeps the board light.  Most of us wear the dents as badges of a well ridden board…

Nice V-bottom.  Most guys hated them once they tried a more subtle bottom but I loved them.  Have to have the right wave though; just under head high point or reef, not too steep.  Find a nice greenough stage 3 for the box and you are off and running.


I am most definitely correct. Your board is no older than late 67. WAVESET did not exist in 1966 and that type of V bottom board was not common until 1968.

The oldest ad I can find for WAVESET is in the March 1968 issue of Surfer Mag. The mag would have been shipped in January of that year, since it was published bimonthly at the time.

So, WAVESET didn’t exist until very late in 1967 and wasn’t commonly used until 1968.


PS: I can’t see much of anything in your pic. Too blurry.



Yes. I understand that you were using the PDF from stokednboard. However, it seems they have made an error with the serial number sequence in that file.

That website is a great resource for info, but they are sometimes prone to mistakes, like the rest of us humans.

Instead of car bondo, try Minwax wood filler. It is actually identical to bondo, but the paste is a light tan color and the catalyst is white. Makes color matching on bondo repairs a lot easier than the grey and red bondo used on cars.

I really like the blue tint resin job so I probably wont use bondo or wood filler. Ill just deal with the pressure dings and surf it!

Lee V - The V Bottom sounds perfect for the area I usually surf, Northern Los Angeles.

Sammy - Thanks for the info on the Waveset fin. I wonder if maybe the fin was broken off and replaced with a waveset?




No. That box is original to the board. The board was built in 1968 and it has an original WAVESET box, installed when it was built.