ALas
A LACK of skills and knowledge
can lead to breaches in the collective wisdoms
there are spot specific
realities for every
yes each and every
specialized surfing equiptment form.
pushing the limits"" of a given form is an ego rush.
modifying specialized equiptment forms is popular
as we here in swayville know quite well.
superman and clark kent came from swayville
before they moved to metropolis city
the looming presence of short sighted wannabeeists
wether they pursue fortune or fame
will be with us till the human genome
has space migrated or becomes extict
on this planet.
the exactitude of applying these
super uncontrol projectiles
is a magnum responsibility.
short how to lists withstanding
the leaarning curve is a
broad concave curve.
self assured nazi enthusiasts
who train daily to hone skills readily
or at painful trial aquired
are to be praised for their tenacity.
this said we must address motives:
the short game motive is obvious to the pecking order challenged,
more for me where there was none before.
burning the pecking order down from the bottom floor is at hand
the mere possession of a mega platform at the cost of mere money or effort
is the root of the problem.
bankers,Lawyers,used car dealers real estate brokers on a roll
are allowed a jump to status formerly unattainable.
bless their mortal souls may they find peace.
the Code of ethics unspoken aloud or written in this
sub culture we hold so dearly close to our hearts
is being challenged.
an OLD dicipline is being
morphed before our very eyes
sitting back to watch
is amusing and unsettling.
traditional spots are under seige
the morph of designs being specialized
to ride the Sophisticated waves marked and studied
the optimum boards well accepted
and applied are in heavy use.
any design morph will become
more simular to accepted forms than diffrent
I.E. rides like a short board long board
or rides like a long board shortboard
to introduce alternative specialized equiptment
is a slow and delicate process.
the introduction of the ''short board ",alaia
into the surfing culture of the late 1960s
was a momentus event of world shaking impact.
to those who clearly remember the clashes were notpleasant.
the return of a walking board ,over 8’
in contemporary popularity was also fraught with discontent
the return of the olo board though
phantasised by some
has not yet addressed the real olo parameters.
pharquing Wrong boarders!
was a battle cry not uncommon
WRONG BOARDING
is not exclusive to any one venue.
claims of "wrong board " indiscressions are
vollyied back and forth by the discontent
CONTINUALLY.
the Jury is out deciding the case
daily DAILY YES DAILY
the humility and grace and magnanimity
of surfing will prevail.
the self serving greed
wether in the fortune or fame department
will ebb and flow with the tide of humanity.
surfers who endured wind surfers
until they found their niche
were of noble stock.
responsible opperating of alternative equiptment
is of primary concern.
opperating equipment in appropriate venues
is also of concern
sequestering enthusiasm
in these appropriate venues
is a learning experience
in it self.
rincon is ,
in super uncool placement
for the beach boy disipline
a short sprint up the coast
toward carpenteria
to coal oil point is a wise move
and more rewards than just waves.
social distance will breed a familiarity
and acceptance necessary to the
slow growth into this dicipline.
the wisdom of expressing this relocation
recomendation short of a brawling confrontation
or vandalous destruction of transportation
equiptment is immediately necessary
as the popularity of this recently
highly promoted specialized
venue grows …
as with wind surfing’spromotional hey day
this too shall pass.
the spiffy sponsored apparel manufacturers
and equiptment moguls will
eventually focus their attention elsewhere.
until then Patience and calm must prevail
leave the confrontation to the young bucks
the aging 40 year olds will accept their fate
as they slip from their bull status
they cherish it so dearly
they must have their day
though the sun is setting
quickly,their days of dominating the "hottie spots "
is approaching twilight
no matter what plastic junk
they support their egos on
body surfing will be the final venue.
unless the Corronary God
takes them in a massive tube ride at
backdoor on their 5’7’’
stand up paddle
projectile.
if this guy can read hand him a copy of this post
I made my paddle long ago
and my first 12 'er turns 30 years old in january
…ambrose…
the credible venues
will indeed be outside
offshore and
coastal cruising
from carp to C street wood be a stellar run.
if the guy was any good?
why is he sand boxing on his Harley
unless his fragile self esteem
needs to show off in front of the little kids
that burn him on his short board?
