A little trip I took to Rincon last week.

Took a trip to Rincon, PR last week. Kinda got skunked but we made the best of it. 

 

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TmcmB8pLM1w

Ohh man, you must have been here in between swells damn I wish you would have caught this weekend’s swell Maria’s was nice and overhead. Well, it seems you guys had fun anyway. Nice video editing, better luck next time, always check rinconsurfreport.com or contact me beforehand so you don’t get skunked next time. Good vibes!

Yea. We booked our trip months in advance and caught it right between both of those big swells. We were all bummed but we still had a blast.  Thanks for the compliments.

A few friends have been down there for nearly a month.  Here is a couple of shots from Wilderness yesterday.  Look close in the lower right of the second pic.

 

 

 

Well I’m glad they got some of the big stuff. We caught a handful of chesty sets and a buzz. Awesome place though. I loved it.

Wildo can hold some size, I have gotten my arse handed to me many times, teaches you to relax and search for inner peace jejeje. Sometimes I can’t believe some of the kids air dropping on their 6’6"s, most don’t make it. I prefer a gun as you need to paddle hard for the waves to catch them way outside and a longer rail to help make those sections, it can be a loooong heavy wall if you can connect one from monster point all the way to past the parking lot!

was lucky to get the new years swell down there…wilderness jan 2nd with shades of sunset beach

wildy

only had a 5’10 but managed to get a few good smaller ones and avoid being hammered by the bigguns. was wishing i had a 6’6-7’0 to hunt down some ledges out the back…

surfin

 

handles well in the big rolly waves for such a short little guy

5'10

some more pics of the surf

peakwavewavebomb

there was a guy down there who had some pretty cool boards that he made  - channel bottom quads with curved reverse D fin templates…dont remmber the name though…

Weird reverse D quads… that what probably David Balzerak… DCB surfboards

http://www.2ndlight.com/fusetalk/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=10&threadid=109182

He shapes ocassionally at MHL customs in Isabela, they have an SUP and Kite board production going on with CNC machine and everything. My buddy Greg Jaudon is the main shaper there and they ocassionaly do regular (non SUP) surfboards too.

I’ve surfed Wilderness huge 2 times in my life.  First time it was double overhead breaking top to bottom with freak rogue sets that were downright freightning.  Nearly drowned on a 2 wave hold down that day but got 4 or 5 waves before taking my second serious beating of the day and quitting while I was ahead.  

The second time  it was double to triple overhead and as easy and melo as a big wave can be, breaking like giant soft pointbreak.  Not a drop of water out of place.  That was one of the most memorable sessions of my life.

Seriously jealous of all these stories. In the video we are surfing SUPER small wilderness. When you guys went, was the ice cream truck there selling chicken? Lol