plenty of discussion on trueing up templates etc etc i thought i post a fast way
cut it perfectly accurate the first time
5 minutes and ready to use
http://www.facebook.com/v/2028853798957
That’s great thanks for sharing! Gonna give that some pratice right away
ahh sorry about that. fixed it!!!
Pull saws are great for all but the tightest curves. My boss has been trying to get me to use them for the last six years.
i use a japanese lam saw...........but i removed the pull blade and installed a optional cross-cut blade.
if i skin and foil first ,before lining ,i get a zipper cut effect...........like pulling a razor thru paper.
herb
Thank you Paul, I went out and bought a Japanese pull saw today and did a couple pratice runs on hardboard. This way is much more efficient than cutting wide with a jig saw then cleaning up the bumps. Until my skill improves I think I’ll still have to cut a hair or two outside my line and use a fairing board to finish, but this will save lots of time and effort from fairing a wavy jig saw cut, a big improvement for sure!
If you like the pull saw,you should try a Makita circular saw.Pull saws are awesome to have in the arsenal though,lots of uses for them.
Agreed - A great tool no doubt, but can any circ saw cut an outline curve drawn on a piece of hardboard?
Of course,it comes down to what the user is comfortable using.I like a makita because you can look through the saw by the base plate and see the line and where the blade is cutting,instead of leaning over the saw.Of course the hardboard needs to be supported by a sheet of 1/2" ply or some other ridgid lumber.I like to set my saw blade depth just below the hardboard,like 1/16" or so.I’ve found the faster I cut the cleaner the cut,and don’t be scared to muscle the saw around tight curves.Your only cutting 1/8" thick material.
Not sure how many saw the video from JTG. I have tried this and it works well for me.
Cut outside the line with jigsaw, circular saw or hand saw of any type. Turn your planer on it’s side and plane the long curves to split your line in half. Use a large board with sand paper attached to true up the curves at both ends. Works like a charm.
Very nice Paul.
I’ll repeat what I said on an earlier thread. Buy a good pull saw. The cheapies are a waste of time.
Thanks Jesus I was trying to get my head around my vision of a circ saw ripping wood, with the blade hanging down an inch below the material and trying to bend it with the curve! Hah didn’t occur to me about setting the depth like you described, makes perfect sense. But like you also mentioned comfortable using I think for now I’ll stick with the pull saw and a little bit of cleaning up with the fairing board.
yeah i can use a 3 inch circ saw as well . i use it for floor overlays all the time.personally i still think the pull saw is fastest . that template was cut and finished in about 5 minutes ready for use. your welcome guys. i use the larger crosscut version for cutting blanks as well ( right on the line) but you gotta be more onto it as it will stray off the vertical. im sure there is a japanese pull saw that will do blanks without having to block them. bonus of that little saw is doing fish tails is a piece of wees. by its nature of holding it and sighting it, cutting back is more accurate then pushing the blade
[img_assist|nid=1057680|title=|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
The bigger the blade, the cleaner the cut. Just watch out for kickbacks if you cut on a curve
yes the circular saws are ok as well . the japanese pull saw is the fastest and most accurate tool for templates and blanks. quiet as well