It's my First try applying acrylic airbrush paint on a hotcoat, and I have some questions.
My air compressor doesn't work right now so I'm wondering if I can apply a dark blue acrylic on the bottom and the rails with a brush or sponge?
I'm doing a shortboard that I DON'T want to gloss coat on so will sealing it with future floor finish work? How many coats?
Thanks
if i applied it with a sponge and sanded it lightly, then sealed it with future would it work and last long?
would a rattle can last longer?
What kind of acrylic paint will you be using? All are not created equal. Many will argue liquatex is the standard art acrylic medium. Yet it tends to peel off hot coats if it is applied to thickly. It works great for pin lines, but should be let to completely dry before lightly sanding and applying the sealer. This works best when left under a gloss coat. Acrylic paints are inert when dry and normally do not react with sealers.
That being said your only asking for problems attempting to use your stated technique; nonetheless it can be done…
Forget the brush and sponge, unless you’re trying for some kinda textural effect. Run down to the paint store and get a couple of rattle cans of your favorite dark blue. If you want to seal it, give it a coupe of coats of Krylon Crystal Clear. If you don’t like it shiny, you can always scuff it down with a Scotchbrite pad.
I thought about it for a while and here is my plan. PLEASE let me know if this will cause any problems.
Sand hotcoat on deck and rails very very well with 100, then hit with 220.
Apply acrylic/future/water mixture with sponge, then lightly sand until smooth.
mix batche of gloss resin.
sand with 320 and seal.
Any problems with this method. also, how thick is too thick for acrylic?
thanks
Solvent based paints that are found in spray cans, tend to make a much stronger coating than the water based stuff. Yeah, there’s waterborne coatings that dry pretty strong, but theres something to be said about how the solvents chemically bond to the substrate (which is something that waterbornes can’t really do). Plus, solvents flash/dry faster than water. If you must use water based acrylics, and don’t want to seal them with gloss resin, you’ll get a more durable finish if you seal them with another hot coat, which would be significantly stronger that clear coating it with future. Or just seal the acrylics with Krylon Crystal Clear or a good clear solvent based urethane.
Oh, one more thing. Light sand your paint job with 400 or a scotchbrite pad before your final coat.
Howzit atomized, I would use the Krylon paint made for plastics then use the clear over that. The Plastic paint works really well plus Krylon makes a triple thick clear but be careful since it will orange peel so fast if you don't keep the can moving fast enough. Aloha,Kokua
any examples of a solvent based urethane? Would that be like that minwax polyurethane, or am I way off? would a polycrylic work better over krylon?
That plastic specific Krylon sounds good Kokua. The best polyurethane clear is a 2 part linear polyurethane. That’s the clear coat you find on cars. The only thing is the stuff is highly toxic and most supplier won’t sell it to the general public because of that. Consumer grade urethanes that you find at the paint stores would be the next best thing. I don’t really have a preference as far as that goes. I once used MinWax PU (though I can’t remember specifically which MW PU clear it was -it was a few year ago) to clear coat over some graphics i did on the hotcoat of a team riders board which held up very well.
My art is random....Atomized is good!!!!
Sometimes you just have to go for it!!!!!!
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/i-painted-another-surfboard
Go for it!
Ray
One more thing, I think I'll go with kokua's advice on the Krylon Fusion(for plastics). can I put a laminate (rice paper) over it along with cloth? any problems resulting from this? thanks
You are really complicating the issues involved. You can put down any good FLAT acrylic paint on a sanded hot coat and then gloss over. The only problem is that; if you paint the rails you want to be very careful when sanding and polishing the gloss. It is very easy to sand thru the gloss and damage your paint underneath. Paint on sanded hot coat reccomended for flat surfaces only. You can also paint and then clear coat with automotive clear coat. Just be sure that you use paints that are compatiable with the clear coat. Automotive clear coats are usually used with PPG and Omni automotive paints. Forget the sponge; You just won't get a god job. I have found that paint sponged or brushed on usually bleeds under the tape If you try to put down a logo/lam over a painted hotcoat you are asking for an eventual de-lam at the logo/lam. What do I know? You sound pretty determined to do it your way and seem to be looking for confirmation that it will work. So give it a go your way. Experience and failure are great teachers..
McDing’s right!
Since you’re new to all this, you should just keep it simple and you’ll be happier with the end result.
I think you should just paint it with the Krylon Fusion and leave it- go surf it. In case you ding it you’ll have the exact color to paint over when you fix the ding.
The Krylon Fusion should hold up well enough without a final clear coat.
Here’s an example of the opposite of simple:
This board was done at the Channin factory in the late 90’s for Greg Noll. The board was part of a limited edition run of Da Cat replica show boards.
The black on the hot coat is Nova Color Acrylic as well as the red pinlines. The fillet and the fin are also painted.
This is a nightmare challenge for any glosser and polisher.
Polishing black or any dark color is really difficult because every tiny scratch shows, let alone having to deal with the concaves, the fin and the rails.
The board was double glossed over the paint and it took my friend Brimo (who also glossed it) over 4 hours to polish it.
Atomized------------That's Highlarious! I'm reading your describution of MY Board before the picture even comes up and thinking "naw couldn't be" and when the picture comes up I see it on some lonley beach in Oregon in the hands of Mike Jipp. Who by the way was the third owner; myself being the first having picked it up in person from Tony. It spent a little time with Frank at Pancho's Surf Shop " in Pismo before moving on to Mike(who will buy any and all things Noll). The story from Tony that day about that board and others that were up in the "loft" was interesting. But I won't go into it on a public forum. I've seen those pictures before and have talked to Mike about it.
That pretty cool!
I did the fabric inlays and the pinline/color work on most if not all of those things.
Yeah Tony gave me choice of two boards . The other one had a fabric inlay. Can't remember exactly what it looked like. I took the black one because alot of the original Cats were black and I liked the red pinlines. As a board builder I knew it was a painted board and figured it was probably double sprayed and double glossed. One of the nicests gloss jobs and rubouts I have ever seen on a board, But I would never expect anything less from Tony Channin's shop. Sad that I had to give it up. Long story. Suffice to say; marital break-up. Those were great pinlines. Did you tape off and airbrush those lines?
Yeah, the pins were taped and sprayed over the black.
Gregs wife Laura was the one who picked out the fabric for those thing. I guess it was slim pickin’s at the fabric stores back then. Some of the prints looked like grannies curtains. And then again, some were quite nice.
Every year, a few weeks before the trade shows, the whole shop went into Cat board overdrive to get the things finished by the time of the shows. Used to really piss off all the regular customers 'cause their stuff would get back burner’ed.
There’s a a couple of photos of some those Cats during production in Nolls “Art of the Surfboard” book.