I’ve read throuth loads of archive on this issue but I could do with a little help to get on the right track. I’m just finished spraying a 7’0" mini gun and I really don’t want a nice spray job to get wrecked in the Lamination
I don’t think we have the “future” brand on the market here in Ireland.
From my understanding, the stuff I need is an acrylic laquor - just like the stuff used to bring up a shine on wooden floors. Is this correct.
Also - I found that there are two type of laquor. Water based and cellulose based.
Water based paints, sealers and inks are the key to applying anything you are going to cover with polyester resin. Always test something first on a small sample of your project materials.
Future is nothing more than a clear floor sealer with a high acrylic component. You should be able to find a similar product used to seal linoleum, plastic roll flooring and the like. Sounds as if your wood floor sealer will NOT work, look at the label and be certain that what you use has no oil based components. The cheapest of the clear acrylic spray paints will seal your spray job as well.
i used it today on the bottom lam…the red still bled out. i’ll just put a thicker pin around it to cover it up as best i can, but i’ve got to the deck tomorrow and would prefer that it not bleed…any other suggestions? in fact, i don’t ever want it to bleed…HOW CAN I FIX IT FOR THE FUTURE?!?
my epoxy paint didn’t bleed, but you can’t get it in all those cool colors at Home Depot, you might want to try a marine store. I know they paint them all the time.
Howzit soulstice, One trick is tape off the area to be painted with 3m 233 tape then paint. leave the tape on and mix a batch of resin thinned with styrene( thin like you would for a fabric inlay) and brush the area from the tape edge to about 1 1/2 " inward. make sur that the tape is stuck to the foam really good so if the resin / styrene mix makes the paint bleed a little it will bleed off on the tape instead of the foam. This is also a trick that can be used on paint that has a tendency to crystallize. Aloha, Kokua
Howzit soulslice, Yeah it’s a good tip, we use it more for colors that have a tendency to crystallize. When your color bled did it bleed in the glass,as in drips running down the glass before you wrapped the rails. I’ve had that happen twice in the last 8 years and boy it’s a M.F. to fix, but that’s a whole other world. Red and Black are the 2 worst colors to deal with. The main thing is to make sure the tape is stuck to the foam really good so the thinned resin can’t bleed underneath it. Aloha, Kokua
it didn’t bleed all the way out through the rails. the nose concave was airbrushed red, and before it kicked it bled out mostly toward the nose, but a little bit around the whole concave. i’ve got a black pin outlining the red concave, so i’m just going to thicken it up a little bit to cover as much of the bleed as possible. regardless…it’ll still look great from 10 feet away. it just kinda sux that it happened in the first place…ARGH!!!
also…what ratio/measurements do you suggest for the thinned out resin?
As usual, rather than seek advice I charged head long into painting the bottom of my first board. Mistakenly (obvisuosly in hindsight) I used oil-based paint. All was well until I checked on my hot coat this morning. Paint ate right thru the resin. Any suggestions?
Howzit soulstice, First I use UV so catalyst is not a factor, I don't use a formular for this application I just make it pretty thin. Old school style just by eye. Aloha, Kokua