Does anyone now what is the best “hardware store” acrylic wash that I could purchase easily and is less toxic than an industrial two part clear coats. I have heard the future product is good. Is there one that is particularily popular or do all floor wax products work. Any info would be great. I will also check the archives.
Does anyone now what is the best “hardware store” acrylic wash > that I could purchase easily and is less toxic than an industrial two part > clear coats. I have heard the future product is good. Is there one that is > particularily popular or do all floor wax products work. Any info would be > great. I will also check the archives. Had a look in the archives. Found all that I need to know. Should have looked first. Know for next time
I despise the acrylic finish in that they always turn yellow and sometimes have a “sticky” feel. I’m not convinced that acrylic seals the board very well. There is no replacment for a good, thin gloss coat if properly done.
I despise the acrylic finish in that they always turn yellow and sometimes > have a “sticky” feel. I’m not convinced that acrylic seals the > board very well. There is no replacment for a good, thin gloss coat if > properly done. How thin is thin. Is it safe to dilute glossing resin and still get a neat finish that is water tight. What percent styrene is max. I have heard 10%. Are there any problems with going more than that. I agree in principle but I don’t want to add to much weight.
10% sounds good. Strain your resin twice through a paper funnel strainer. Use a high quality brush. Don’t overbrush and never gloss a board in a room with a fan on. The slightest breeze will cause ripples. Brush it on thin and since sanding it will cut that layer in half you should end up with a nice light board. On the subject of light surfboards. Almost every board I see at the beach has about five pounds of dirty wax on the deck, wax all over the bottom, a thick tailpad peeling half-off and a big wave leash attached to a small wave board. At least the people on this site probably aren’t guilty of this.
???Question??? …What can be used as thinner with gloss resin???
I despise the acrylic finish in that they always turn yellow and sometimes > have a “sticky” feel. I’m not convinced that acrylic seals the > board very well. There is no replacment for a good, thin gloss coat if > properly done…There is no substitute for glossing,but if your(or someone elses) acrylic coats are turning yellow, sticky,and not sealing very well you’re not doing it right!Herb.p.s. a good gloss is only as good as the surface it’s put on,and the person that wetsands/polishes it.
Not doing it right? Wouldn’t know because I don’t do 'em. Just reporting what I see in shops. Styrene or even a little acetone can cut the gloss coat. Personally I like polished boards, even on shortboards. They look flashy and people say, “Duuude, you kook! Why did you polish a shortboard?” That just cracks me up.
Not doing it right? Wouldn’t know because I don’t do 'em. Just reporting > what I see in shops. Styrene or even a little acetone can cut the gloss > coat. Personally I like polished boards, even on shortboards. They look > flashy and people say, “Duuude, you kook! Why did you polish a > shortboard?” That just cracks me up…Ya,if you’re glossing a standard thruster type modern style you are definitely out of the box.THAT’S OKAY,I like glossing shorts,but more in the retro-style(to many people cry weight). Some of my customers will not buy a board unless it’s glossed.Wetsander if you want the skinny on "how to do acrylic washes"I’D BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO HELP YOU OR ANYONE ELSE.Herb.
Herb, i’d sure like to find out what product you use, and how you apply it. the 2 times i’ve tried to do a gloss resin coat, i got that ‘ruffles potato chip’ ridged surface. sanding the first one down took forever, and the second one i scraped off before it hardened. never wanting to suffer this kind of failure again, i’m planning to finish the next with a couple of sprayed on coats of minwax gloss polycrylic, which is supposed to dry and stay water clear. if you or anyone knows from experience whether this is a good or bad idea, let me know. thanks
Herb, i’d sure like to find out what product you use, and how you apply > it. the 2 times i’ve tried to do a gloss resin coat, i got that ‘ruffles > potato chip’ ridged surface. sanding the first one down took forever, and > the second one i scraped off before it hardened. never wanting to suffer > this kind of failure again, i’m planning to finish the next with a couple > of sprayed on coats of minwax gloss polycrylic, which is supposed to dry > and stay water clear. if you or anyone knows from experience whether this > is a good or bad idea, let me know. thanks…I never have tried the minwax,but I have heard of it. CHECK THE ARCHIVES ON ACRYLIC WASHES.I’ve been more recently using a industrial floor sealer by Behr that dries with a high gloss and is a complete non-stick surface.It also is (when dry)resistant to cemical solvents,like acetone,paint thinner,etc.I don’t have all the R&D info on it yet ,but so far so good!Herb.
Does anyone now what is the best “hardware store” acrylic wash > that I could purchase easily and is less toxic than an industrial two part > clear coats. I have heard the future product is good. Is there one that is > particularily popular or do all floor wax products work. Any info would be > great. I will also check the archives. Used to use Future great for touchups on ding repair. Now the glass factory uses ‘Dolphin Skin’ (teflon,UV blocking,sealer) www.surfsource.com works on all the Rustys, Lost, Sharp Eye,… can work for you.
Try a marble fiberglass polish called Gel Gloss. Don’t get the spray, get the pour on type . It comes in a purple can. Most hardware stores stock it. We use Dolphin skin at the factory with good results, so I did half a bottom with Dolphin Skin and the other half with Gel Gloss. The Gel Gloss was slightly shinier and definitely smoother. You use it like you’re waxing your car. I’ve been using it for 12 years and haven’t found anything better. I keep trying different stuff, but always come back. much aloha everyone!
It’s great for polishing too!Herb.
Stefan, Given the number of postings, it appears there are a number of builders interested in the cosmetics of surfboards. In my opinion, when thinking of finishes the question is between economics and craftmanship. It seems to me that washes are clearly in the first category. It is not in the best interests of a shop to pay a skilled sander if they can find one. A number of years ago I was told that when I could sand a hotcoat down with a power sander to 1600 without hitting the cloth and with an even sheen I would be an adequate sander. A shop cannot afford the time for a person to develop such a level of skill. Accordingly, we have the 220 wash job. Similarily, most shops can not compete with the autobody industry for the services of a skilled clearcoater. A friend of mine who has an autobody shop and does custom graphics thinks it is a joke that surfboards are finished with acrylic paints and washes. The standard is two part polyurethane paint and a two part urethane clearcoat. So too with glossers. Surf factories cannot afford the time it takes to gloss, sand, compound, polish, and wax a board to a crystal finish. Neither can they afford the services of someone who can spray a resin clearcoat. What is the answer to this dilemma for the craftsman or the shop wanting to produce a high quality product? Perhaps as in the Kevin Costner movie, “If you build them, they will come”. Patrick
???Question???>>> …What can be used as thinner with gloss resin??? I believe it is styrene???