Adding balsa skin to cheapo EPS without vac bag, worth trying?

The cost of blanks here has sky rocketed over the last couple of years, and I don’t have much spare cash for materials at the mo.

 

I’m looking for a new project that won’t cost the earth or that I can spread the cost over a few months (I like to take my time), I’ve been weighting up my options and looking at materials v dif construction methods. 

 

Initially I was thinking of going down the HWS route, but I also seen some low density EPS going cheap at the local hardware store so I’ve been lurking over at compsand, and learning what I can. I get the basic principles but all the consumables or pretty expensive.

 

I understand the advantages and basic principle of using a vac bag but I think it may be a little too expensive, and to be honest the actual finer points of the process go over my head. PLEASE help educating me if I’m wrong.

 

Though I do have a compressor that I may be able to use as a pump?? Need to check to see if it has a connection for the intake.

 

I was thinking about the similarities of Paul’s (HWS) method of making skins and applying them to a framework of wooden ribs to that of applying the skins on a compsand.

 

For any one not familiar with this, Paul tapes thin strips of decorative wood together then hand lams one side (inner glass), In this case this is done to hold the wood together, once cured Paul glues and clamps them to the interior rails and wood ribs with spring clamps all round the outside and weights in the middle.

 

My limited understanding so far is that on a compsand the glass is still wet when it goes into the bag and the vacuum helps create a superior bond by applying pressure evenly over the entire surface and allows resin to be squeezed from the cloth to achieve a lighter cloth to resin ratio. The Vacuum holds everything in place while the resin sets and resin also acts as the adhesive to stick the wood to the blank.

 

The pump needs to run for a long time while the epoxy sets. The strength comes from a good bond and the sandwich lay up of glass/wood/glass (like ply wood being stronger than regular wood of the same thickness due to alternate grain direction)

 

So I’m thinking whats possible on a limited budget and wondering it anyone else has tried this.  Is it worth doing?  

 

  1. Hot wire / shape blank from low density hardware store EPS foam.

  1. Add interior rails with 1/8 balsa. 
  2. Tape and lay up and HAND lam skins with 1/16 balsa and 1 layer if 4oz glass, let cure, trim. (like Pauls method)

  1. flip skin so glass is on OUTSIDE (yes I know) and attach the skins to the blank with gorilla glue using clamps and weights. So the bond is between the wood and foam.

- OR alternately bag using a shop vac as the glue would set a lot quicker than the resin and it wouldn’t matter so much if things shifter a little

 

  1. build out and shape rails.

  1. Glass as normal.

Am I just completely missing the point and wasting my time and money on something that is ultimately going to fail the first time I take it in the water, or is this worth trying.

 

I know the above will not compare structurally to actually using better quality 2lb foam and a proper vac pump, but that’s something to move onto when I one day have more cash and a better understanding of the techniques involved, but for now I'm thinking poor mans compsand.  

 

 

 

 

what about 

  1. shaping the blank

  2. add interior rails 

  3. glue on wooden skins using gg or epoxy, put a tarp over the hole thing and lay sandbags on top as weights.

   done that at boats that needed a new veneer on top

  1. trim, shape rails 

  2. glas as normal

 

you could even put some 4 or 6 oz between the foam and the skins 

makes an almost bulletproof deck and should save some weight

just my ideas 

hi woody, it is possible to stick balsa or other veneers to a low density eps core , i think tommo who posts on here did one like that but in reality you can sort out a vac pump from a fridge compressor for next to nothing,

i have a few vac pumps but my main one is the fridge compressor that i made about 5 years ago, its quiet and pulls good vac, you can make a vacuum bag from plastic sheet easily but i use a half bag method where i just use a single sheet of plastic stuck over a rocker bed ,in this way you can conform sheet eps into the rocker curves you require,

i would/nt say its a cheaper way to make boards because you use epoxy but it is a way of making boards where you don/t really need to buy too much from a surf supply place ,

 

i have made loads of boards in this way ,if you need any help or advice give me a pm , i live in cornwall by the way , pete 

Hey Woody, where you located? Maybe someone could loan you the vac pump? Bagging doesn’t have to cost a lot. I used 4 mil poly sheeeting from Home Depot and masking tape for the bag, a glue bottle cap for the attachment. I bought a good pump, but before I did I also bought and tried a “venturi” vacuum valve- it creates vacuum using the pressure created by an air compressor. I could never get enough of a pull with that method, but I have a tiny compressor (the kind for airbrushing or inflating tires). The compressor was weak and noisy. If you want the venturi valve PM me and I can send it to you. I have no use for it. If you have a strong compressor maybe it will work for you.

For what it’s worth I don’t think you’ll get good results with the method you outlined. You could get balsa on a flat bottom using bags of sand or water, but the compound curves on the deck will be very difficult. That’s my 2 cents.

Just my .02 -

If cost is a primary factor you might consider the additional cost of epoxy resin over polyester, the cost of the balsa and the risk of failure.  Maybe reconsider polyurethane/polyester?

Regarding technique of composite sandwich construction... check Bert Burger's original thread where vacuum was unfortunately misspelled "Vacumn."  The misspelling throws off many searches.  It should answer some of your questions. 

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1012644

One guy has vacuumed the skin outside down against a mylar covered sheet of plywood, then flipped it over and Gorilla Glued to core.

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1020668

More on prefabbed skins...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1019108

Rail method controversy...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1017338

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/compsand-rail-question

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1018416  (no pics)

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I live in Bristol UK, I've been using epoxy for a few yrs now, I've got some left over (about 1L ) not quite enough for a full board, and Ive got fibre glass as well.

Not really looking to make the world cheapest board or the worlds strongest but somewhere in the middle would be good.

I've made PU/PE, PU/Epoxy and HWS boards and I want to try something different and saw the cheap foam at the large hardware close to where I live and got to thinking what I could use it for.

The advantages of compsands seem clear and I'm just starting to read a little and get an understanding, just seemed that the the outlay and consumables were realy expensive considering I only make a couple of boards a year.

Thanks for all the links John. I'b been reading what I can find from the archives and at CS,

Pete Its good to know that people are doing this in the UK so atleast I know that its possible to get the materials needed on this side of the pond.

I'll spead some more time reading up on the process and PM you with some more specific questions when I have a better understanding.  Need to start putting together some sort of shopping list for material.

Thanks again

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the very first set of compsand blanks I ever made just involved flat sheet, wood springers, stretch wrap, strapping tape and a board as a rocker table.

it doesn’t have to be more complicated than that in a compsand the skin or the rail is the stringer

1

 

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i got a video of how to do it on yourtube in a series of 7

username is boxoffluffys

im doing two right now one in totara and one in cedar. both at the sme time, i shaped cores and glued up the rails yesterday in a few hours. just got to do the rail bands.

ill post some more pics tonight maybe

certifiable madness.