Good things happen to good people. Shit happens to everyone.
…Your the man! your the shit, the shit, the shit.
ha ha ha!
Sander On foam, Does look a bit retarded!
But hey, each to their own. keep up the, errrr, work!
It honestly doesn’t look good to me.
haaaa’’ your gota be pulin my chain either your gheto or he is sitting there having a laugh with you
not alway gona question ya just every now and then i am an ausie remember
cheers huie
Its nothing new. For the job it works fine. I guess if someone could tell me a different way of taking the beak nose down to a thin flip and blend the nose into the deckline with almost zero manuel labor and very little cleanup. I blend the nose in one breath thats like 40 seconds. I have to do this on everyone of this model. Its a pain because as it is blown up the nose gets really thick. Robert August showed me how to use the sander when I was a kid. Most shapers and all the scrubbers I’ve worked with have use them. The other thing is this is all eps and some is 1.5 pound. No tearing to deal with plus I only use the hard disk on the tips and thinning the nose. grinds the wood clean. What would you use and how?
No I’m not Gheto but I do remember him from years ago. Good to see a lighter side of ya. you nasty older Grumpapotamus. I thought I was a Oldschool Dick. I have now meet a Older one! You need to work on your game mate. Can we agree to disagree about sanding foam. Now Cheer up Grumpa. Someday you Aussie’s may Win a World title again. Bam!!!
I don’t give a Fuck who showed you how to do anything, that’s Not the point, Why even say Robert this or that… you know (to me) it makes you look like a wanna be try hard, and at your vintage…just a fool!
In your photo it looks like you got some clean lines running and your fucking em, why? your destroying the lines/shadows, then wheres your visual.
40 seconds hey, for that! (beak)…30 with a surform and I still got my shadows matching with my (Hand planed?) lines.
Looks to me, my “friend” like that hard pad is set on cruse control for the whole board??? Might just look that way to me!
Wood…different animal, I don’t know!
What would I do? you ask!.. at the stage your at with that board. Give up!.. ha ha… nar… BUT!!!
… Next time you send me a PM, Make sure its about me or you. Don’t Shit on my friends! OK.
Now! Super Gald your here, to keep this place in order!
Cheers Mate, Aussie style!
./…
oi, by the way peace
keep smiling
you old shit!
locked in a room all day scrubbing e p s i would use a chainsaw (oh and i can use one)
cheers huie
[quote="$1"]
Cheers Mate, Aussie style!
./..
[/quote]
I thought Aussie style was \ /.. how'd I get it so wrong?
i agree sanolocal, it works just fine with a sander…;o)
cheers
Wow yorky calm down. First of all I sent a pm asking whats up with the Grumpa and was it something I said and thats all I said?? Thats talking shit? You Aussies are thin skinned. Is it because you guys are so sensitive??? The other thing Surforms and chainsaws you guys are oldschool. You use Dragon skin too? Hahahah
This is a post about Advance sanding and like I said before that picture reflected the other ways of using a sander in board building other then sanding a hotcoat. I hope when your foiling fins you’re not using that old file and that surform too because there are faster ways to get a job done. So my point is Its not retarded to use a sander because so many do hence the name dropping. I could list a hundred more but I wouldn’t want to hurt your feelings.
Last but not least as asked in the post to get a flat mirror finish you need 5000 rpms and a hard pad to get a flat finish. Block sanding is a cure but not the answer to the question. I mean really you guys get so side tracked trying to make your point. No wonder you guys are 10 years behind us. B)
Now that we got that behind us its sunday time to get pissed and watch football. Just think we just got started.
So stop dropping in on me because I will always catch ya down the line. Trust me I always do.
One more thing whats with saying Cheers? It sounds so gay??? You Aussies crack me up give ya a few beers and your always pissing in the corner or on my couch? Have a good one
I’m a hack… but I’ve used the sander hard pad with 80 grit to foil the noses on shortboards, and it does a good, quick job. Leaves it a bit rough and ripplely, but it takes down the bulk fast. Socal… do you get a near finished surface with the sander??? I can’t seem to…
But I don’t consider that “using the sander on foam.” Really, it’s using it on wood… the stringer. Once the stringer has the roughed out foil I want, the surform and block do the rest. Nobody ever taught me that… I just figured it would work… and it does.
It has a smooth finish only because it has a very low nose rocker like 4.5 so I don’t have a lot of transition through the nose so it works fine. Because this model is a Reshape not a scrub it takes more time. Time is money and less money means less surf time.
I have a old surform laying around thats all rusty now. A sander with a soft backed pad and some old 60 grit I hit the flats and even blend out the deck into the rails. I do that a about half speed. Since I do mostly EPS finish is so important. You can’t hack away at EPS like ya can poly.
The one tool I do have is a file like cheese grader you can get at Bed Bath and beyond. Its a Micro blade product. I take the handle off it and use it to detail out the nose blend.
The more you use it the better ya get and time saved is better spent.
…hey Sanolocal,
by the way, the gloss picture you put there looks not so incredible, I can see there a not so flat gloss…so all that not so safety work to do that?
then the other picture looks a machined shape? it is right?
the way I described is a safety way to do the sanding
Wake up and see, as I previously mentioned, that are more than a gloss finish, so more than 1 type of sanding.
Hard pads, action at an angle (not flat), too much speed and heavier grits is like working in an edge of a mountain…
I cannot waste any more time
Its all in the technique, in the pulse
the pads are 95% time used with the action flat
You do not need more than the red power pad (as a hard one, then the others) to sand small potato chips with 4oz or sinthetic fabrics.
-In all these years I noticed here many with too much blah bling but no pictures or recent work
or/and with not so incredible work
In other hand I saw fantastic skills and overall work by others
–hey Mcding,
all depens on the finish desired.
If you start with 180 to do a gloss coat…well that s not good.
ive never been a production sander before but all these low grits you guys are using sound weird to me, with the sand paper that i use i start sanding with 220 then 320 then a scotch bright pad for a potato chip style board with and acrilc finish
for doning gloss boards ill prep sand with 150 then gloss, then when i sand the gloss i start with 400
i dont think im a great hot coater or glosser but i just think the the paper i use cuts resin down really nice
any body else start with these grits or am i the weird one
Hey Reverb what do you mean Safety work?? Whats that?
by the way, the gloss picture you put there looks not so incredible, I can see there a not so flat gloss…so all that not so safety work to do that? I’m not sure what you’re seeing but if you see something to pick at fine. It was taken with a cell phone maybe its the quality of the pic and not the finish?
then the other picture looks a machined shape? it is right? Your pretty observant. Your point?
Wake up and see, as I previously mentioned, that are more than a gloss finish, so more than 1 type of sanding. I do know that but "Again" the post was about a guy who is doing color tint work and is working with a heavier glassing job and not a pro lite glass job!
Hard pads, action at an angle (not flat), too much speed and heavier grits is like working in an edge of a mountain... Ok I agree but I never said anything about putting a pad on edge. Keeep to the facts don't make your own.
I cannot waste any more time.... I agree again you guys are wasting time to mocking me?? You that bored?
the pads are 95% time used with the action flat..... Really I didn't know that! Geezzzzz
You do not need more than the red power pad (as a hard one, then the others) to sand small potato chips with 4oz or sinthetic fabrics... I agree and hot coated right you cold almost sand it by hand. Then again the post was about getting a heavy glass job flat? What part don't you understand?
-In all these years I noticed here many with too much blah bling but no pictures or recent work.. You want pics have hundreds of them New school shortboards to SUPs all Handshaped. So whats your point You want to see more pics? I only got back on swaylocks last week sorry I haven't posted anything new. I can what would ya like to see.
!80 grit for gloss would not work very well. Then "Again" I never said that! Keep to the facts not yours. Why are you guys so hell bent on making something out of nothing? Stop trying to twist things around and mock people. It makes you all look like Kooks. To think I have been back on swaylocks for less then a week and I made some many new friends?
Go surfing and keep it real.
If you start with 180 to do a gloss coat...well that s not good.
hi guys
hope all your stuff comes out good for the methods you use. We all have our methods that suit us.
and we all want to do better.
My 2 cnts. (if you dont mind)
its been said here on sway's a thousand times,,, the quality of the previouse step is what makes the following step yield a better outcome.
with that said,,,,,
to achieve a level gloss, the sand coat has to be sanded flat and smooth. if blocking is required to get this surface then blocking is a must.
if you can pull it off with a sander alone then power to you.
I myself (one at a time builder) can see that my boards will show a better, truer, gloss if I block out the sand coat.
when I get that mirror when the gloss cures I just hit it with 400 then 600 dry, (if its a fancey board then 800) then polish.
if your doing production then you better get good with the sander, cause you wont have time to block it if you want to get payed,,,HA!
oh
and Iv'e seen name brand boards with some wavey gloss coats.
as for potato chips,,,, those things are just a sand finish so you wont see any waves like you would in a glossed board, so just sand those POS's and throw them on the rack...
peace
This is a good comedy thread. Rob you make Mattison look good. I like grinders, sanders, planers, and other power tools for making surfboards. I even block stuff out when its necessary. My hands and my eyes go over everything, and sometimes i catch stuff I missed, and clean or cover it up. Some of the stuff people are calling “advanced sanding” is regressive.
This is a good comedy thread. Rob you make Mattison look good. I like grinders, sanders, planers, and other power tools for making surfboards. I even block stuff out when its necessary. My hands and my eyes go over everything, and sometimes i catch stuff I missed, and clean or cover it up. Some of the stuff people are calling “advanced sanding” is regressive.
…Sanolocal, the post is about sanding
the first comment in this post talks about, that not heavy glass work, so when this post turned to heavy glass job only?
I said about flat pad because you on your first comment said about to put the pad, a hard pad…at a slight angle; that s what I call unsafe.
When I said waste time, was not refering you or this thread man, was a response to what you say about medium (red ones) pads
180 grit is regarding to what Mcding say
re read and see that say Hey Mcding.
–Kensurf, with 150 or finers you can apply a gloss coat, then in the future the coat will peel off in many areas
It s a mechanical bond you should provide a good bond without bad scratches, so the 80 or 100 grit.