I’ve got an 8’0" mini longboard in the works and previously I found info on positions for 2+1 setups somewhere in the archives. Well now the shapers marks are buried underneath a dark purple tint and I can’t find the piece of paper I wrote everything down on in the first place. I also searched the archives and it’s being less than helpful. So anyone with an easy, quick set up for this kind of board? I’ve got 2 probox sidebites and a 10 1/2" FU box.
Hey Rachel,
I usually place mine 14-15" from the tail, depending on rocker, rider, and wave. 1 1/4" off the rail, toed in 3/16" or 1/4". That’s my quick 'n easy response, though, with all things on Sways, it can get unquick and uneasy pretty fast…
J
Rachel,
Depending on thickness of tail, I set my boxes @ 5" +/-. Some set them further up but I always do through box leash holes.
Side-bites are a different story. I like mine @ 13 to 14", 1 1/4" from rail, 3 degree toe. Have seen others @16 to 17" on boards 8 to 8-6.
I rarely mark the fins on the blank. No need since I’m doing it all myself and not sending it out to a glasser. Just lay it out on the hot coat before routing/drilling then log it all in with the rest of the finish dims in my record book.
Pete
Here’s a link to a recent post
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/side-bite-placement-4-egg
Hope that helps…my eight footer has a “rolled bottom”…not your standard double concave…I ride it as a single fin in waves chest high and smaller…San Diego reefs not big powerfull waves…
8’ x 21 3/4" x 3" Magic Egg
center box 5 3/8" , side bite 16 1/4"
My center measurement is done to back of box not back of fin slot…
Howzit Rachel, don’t know if this will help find the marks under the tint but you might try using a really bright high wattage light and shine it from under side of the board like the same way to find a tape off for fabric inlays. You just might be able to see the marks since you are shining the light from the other side of the board, just a thought Aloha,Kokua
Hey Rachel
I’m thinking in the 14" area and 1.25" of the rail.
This is what I was taking away from a discussion with Hoy Runnels over at Rusty.
Its seams that would be the sweet spot.
On 9’0 it more in 16" range and 15" for a quad.
I ended up going with 5" for the fin box and 13.5" for the sidebites. But since they’re Probox I can move them forward or backward. The board will probably be for small beachbreak and maybe eventually small reefs, since the new owner is just learning.
Good Advice!
14" area and 1.25" of the rail.
Yeah…I thought mine were a little far forward…oh well… the board sure is fun to ride…I think it’s the light weight EPS/Epoxy that makes me like the board not my fin placement…
Have a great day
Ray
Yeah…I thought mine were a little far forward…oh well… the board sure is fun to ride…I think it’s the light weight EPS/Epoxy that makes me like the board not my fin placement…
It’s all good! There really isn’t a set in stone set-up.
There is always different variation for different styles of boards.
Fins are set in a linear fashion.
Like a ten foot gun = 6.25" rear fin - 17" front fins.
6’1" Thruster (3.5" - 3.63") 11.25" front fins.
8’0" Mini Mal 5" rear - (14" - 16") front fins. Future forward more drive - Further back looser turning.
I love 8’0" Mini Mals for Scorpion Bay when it’s small.
Your board being epoxy would be lighter and a bit looser in nature so I also would tend to set the fins a little higher than I normally would a PU/PE.
Usually on a 9’0" High Performance Longboard 16" is pretty standard - As you go smaller the front fins tend to be moved back.
I have a linear formula that I use taking into consideration (Quad, Thruster, HPLB, Nose Rider, Gun, Fun Board, Hybrid, Towboard, SUP, Fish, Single)
There are a lot of variation and I have found they all work pretty well. We all set them a little different than each other. It isn’t better or worst just different yeilding varying effects.
SD
Hi Rachel…Hope you don’t mind a little high jack
Hi Surfding…can I ask you some more questions?..
Money’s tight at the Stingray house. My only planned surfboard project for 2009 was to build a longboard. I wanted to do a classic Velzy style log but with EPS/Epoxy…Well…I traded some stuff to SynergyTodd and ended up with a 9’4" high performance blank…No money out of pocket…I have the cloth and resin and center fin…If I put the center box at 6"…aprox where would you put the side bites…I don’t need exact numbers…Several top name builders in SoCal use a “chime rail” on their high performance longboards…any comments???
Thanks
Ray
I don’t personally like chime rails. The High performance longboards that I do have more of a 60/40 rail and have a simular edge to a short board.
Josh Mohr who had a lot of influence on HPLB design. like for a 9’4" x 22 1/4" x 2 3/4" 18 1/2 nose 14 tail = 5 1/2" for box - 16" for the side bits (GL’s)
Use like a 6 1/2" center fin. I like Rusty’s rake fin (Clear).
I like then for myself at 2 5/8" on HPLB (2 + 1) 3 1/8" for Classic Nose Riders in the 10’0 range with a 10" wide base single glasson. Those have 50/50 rails.
If you need anything feel free to contact me. If you need and plans or rocker templates I can mail you some.
I’m a shortboarder however I enjoy longboarding in the right conditions.
SD
Kokua beat me to it! Don’t forget to shut off all other lights in the room, this will make it easier to see your marks when shining the flood light from underneath.
Thank you