Advice on dark blue RR/EPS Resin Tint

General Discussion
1

I’ve done 5 resin tints on 2lb EPS/RR boards so far with so-so results. As expected, lighter colors (yellow) come out better. Darker colors tend to be splotchy or inconsistent. Anyway, I’m getting ready to do a dark-blue tint (2lb EPS, Kwick Kick) and am looking for some advice on how to get a more consistent, less blotchy result. I’m doing a cutlap and have good (3M 233+) tape. Normally I spackle the blank with fast-n-final/filtered water mix. Also will gloss/polish, which I’ve done once and it worked well. I’ll be glassing inside with a temp of about 70F. You can see some of my prior efforts on my new shaping blog here: http://shorepoints1.wordpress.com/

Thanks for any help.

2

My advice for doing dark resin tints or opaques with epoxy is not to. They rarely come out even half way decent.  Sorry to burst your bubble.

 

Jon 

3

i checked out your blog and your first boards look nice. i would suggest sealing the blank w/ resin/q cell/cabosil + pigment. then do your resin tint. i’ve never tried a resin tint but have done pigmented sealer a couple times and it turns out pretty nice.

4

or do whatever surfding suggests

5

Other than proper mixing and filtering the tinted resin, It’s mostly technique that gets good results. Other than that, swirls, splashes, drizzles, etc… hide a lot of imperfections.

6

What type of filter would you use to strain the resin? As you know, KK is pretty viscous. Any other techniques that will improve my odds?

Thanks,

Jamie

7

I’ve tried resin tints with epoxy and what worked for me was to laminate a layer of 1.5oz in clear or a mild white tint first, and then do another color lam over that.  Obviously that makes the board heavier but its not too bad.  Even with that you have to be careful with your lam technique.  

 

Generally speaking I prefer to camouflage the imperfections by incorporating them into the scheme by using smears and abstracts.  

8

A smooth finish shape, two coats of filler (I prefer microballoons and resin), and a smooth pull with the spreader… I’ve never tried to strain KK, but maybe a small volume of resin could be used to dissolve the pigment/tint, and that could be pressed through a paint strainer. You can warm the resin to loosen it up a bit too…

9

I’m with NJ, I have not had good results with dark colors. Only marginal with light colors.  If you must try using artists “gesso”, a white pastey kind of paint sort of like tempra paint to seal the surface before the tint.  Getting a smooth pock free surface is essential.  good luck.

10

use a poly urethane blank and it will be fine. the cell strucure of the foam is more consistent and finer better finish, no tear out and you can finish the blank so its crystal. the darker tints will work. you need a perfect thalco squeegee and lots of resin. and even grader passes

11

do the fill coat on the foam with clear or white pigment (add cabosill if you think that will work for you)

do not spackle as it will get blotchy

squeegee it on nice and smooth

do not sand

do a second coat if you still have cell voids

Good luck straining epoxy

12

maybe use powder pigments instead of the liquid ones.

that way it will be very uniform, and well colored...